Simon1

In my experience, if I have an issue with my car, I think about the last thing I modified or worked on or around. I usually find I screwed something up and didn't realize it.

Ford-a-tude

Did a "Pro" install the Detriot Locker? I have been burned way too many times by the supposed "Pro". I do everything myself and if I screw it up, it's the cost of learning. I have been discussing this with a friend at work and we have come to the conclusion that this is looking like a transmission problem. Looks like I'm pulling it again. I have shifting issues as well, 1-2 is rough so who knows if the syncro is bad. I may end up rebuilding it or breakdown and upgrade.

Simon1

Yes, two different pros installed two different sets of gears in the same locker. One was an ASE Master Mech and the other has been doing nothing but gears for 35 years. All the racers in town go to him. I think part of the problem was a spring broke in the locker causing loading problems. I also drive around with DRs all the time and get zero tire spin from a dig on the street. All that driving around at that power level is hard on stuff.

moosestang

1-2 shift should be smooth. I'm blaming the clutch. did you replace the slave when you installed it? If you are taking out the transmission, get the stainless clutch line. I think you have a slow leak on your slave cylinder or something wrong with the pressure plate.

I can make my car make that noise in reverse if I'm not really good with slipping the clutch

It took 5,000 miles to fully break in my clutch

Is there any play with the pinion flange? No vibrations while driving?

Ford-a-tude

Hey Moose! I replaced the upper diff bushing based on your success stories. I think it made my problem more pronounced. I did the clutch over a year ago and everything is new including the overpriced OEM Ford slave cylinder. I'm not ruling out installation error, but I just don't know what I could have done wrong. I still have the stock clutch line and there is no play on either end of the drive shaft. Pinion yoke and trans are solid. I'm stumped. It did seem to get better when I tightened the upper diff bushing again. I mean I set my wrench to 140 and cranked well past that. Can't get it any tighter.

moosestang

I still think it's chatter from the spec 3+. Did you use a steel flywheel or aluminum? Were you just starting from a stop in 1st gear in this video? I'm going to try and duplicate your sound. My spec 3+ used to be really bad if I tried to slip it to much in 1st gear, but it has gotten smooth now. It would sound and feel like the driveshaft was banging against the floor. Maybe not feel so much, but it sounded bad.

Can you duplicate it by spinning the rear tires by hand with the trans in neutral?

Ford-a-tude

Thanks for your feedback on the Spec Stage 3+. I have never experienced clutch chatter before so this is all speculation on my part. I don't think chatter is the problem. The clutch engages smoothly, it's only after its fully released that the clunk(s) begin. In that clip it was on jack stands and I released the clutch quickly. It also does it when pushing the clutch in (unloading the drivetrain). A strange thing is that if I remove a rear wheel, either one doesnt matter, it doesn't do it. My first thought was a bad spring on the clutch disk. I was thinking that if a spring went bad there isn't enough damping force to smooth out the shock to the driveline. All I know is that I am tired of thinking about this particular issue. I'm attempting to paint my stripes on myself and my gas mileage is also in the toilet. So I have my hands full!

Ford-a-tude

Oh I also went with the Spec billet steel flywheel.

moosestang

Hmmm, now I'm think it's in the rear axle. That's not clutch chatter, clutch chatter occurs when releasing or slipping, not after.

I get a clunking sound when unloading the drive train, but only when the wheel is turned. I think that is the diff though. So it makes that same sound when driving? Spinning the tires with no load on them probably isn't the best test.

moosestang

I don't know of any spec for the rear wheels to turn, but there's a 30-35 ft lb break away torque for the limited slip. You test it by jacking one wheel off the ground and try to spin it with a torque wrench off one lug nut.

The rear axles should turn pretty easily by hand with the tires on and the car in neutral.