When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I would do it from the beginning. I initially did springs awhile ago, and after 10k miles or so the stock shocks/struts were shot.
This is why we all say do it all at one time. I would rather not have to "FIX" something later that I could have prevented to begin with. I would also have to spend money again for another alignment, unless the place I got the alignment done at has a gauntly on the alignment.
When you do get it aligned, go talk to the people and see if they have camber bolts or if they have experience using them. They usually don't, but they are cheap ($20 for two I think). It really depends on your car and set up, but the negative camber will be affected and if it's not corrected, your front tires will wear on the inside too quickly.
Just talk to the people when you go to get it aligned. If they don't know what you are talking about or tell you won't need it, go somewhere else.
I remember reading somewhere on here about the eibach camber bolts not being able to be torqued to the proper specs because they are thinner and have shearing problems... anyone else know about that?
I remember reading somewhere on here about the eibach camber bolts not being able to be torqued to the proper specs because they are thinner and have shearing problems... anyone else know about that?
I think they are torqued to 76lbs. I have a set never installed if anyone wants them. Didn't need them with the FRPP-P springs.
To me, camber bolts are a bandaid. If you need camber adjustment, invest in a good pair of camber/caster plates. Way more reliable and a greater degree of adjustment to suit your taste or keep your suspension geometry good.
I think they are torqued to 76lbs. I have a set never installed if anyone wants them. Didn't need them with the FRPP-P springs.
Uh no, the lower strut mounting bolts are minimum 129 ft/lbs. The revised spec for 2009+ I believe has them as high as 146 ft/lbs. I read in one install sheet (Steeda I think) that there is even a newer spec of 185 ft/lbs but I don't recall if that was with the addition of the new steeda suspension parts or what the circumstances for that spec were.
Uh no, the lower strut mounting bolts are minimum 129 ft/lbs. The revised spec for 2009+ I believe has them as high as 146 ft/lbs. I read in one install sheet (Steeda I think) that there is even a newer spec of 185 ft/lbs but I don't recall if that was with the addition of the new steeda suspension parts or what the circumstances for that spec were.
Eitherway, 76 ft/lbs is no where near close.
Derf, I was referring to the torque on the eibach camber bolts being 76lbs.
Do it once & do it right. You'll never regret it once you're driving the car with the new parts installed. I just had Koni Sports, Steeda Sport Springs & Steeda HD Strut Mounts installed & the improvement is AMAZING!