Door Panel Problem
12-07-2014, 07:12 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Common, especially in warmer climates. There's a very good write-up in the appearance sub-forum on how to fix the sagging pleather. I recently did it to both door panels in my wife's '06.
12-08-2014, 09:13 PM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 50
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...gging-fix.html
I had no idea that this problem could generate a 22 page thread. I'm also glad that they explained that dry, did not mean completely dry.
I had no idea that this problem could generate a 22 page thread. I'm also glad that they explained that dry, did not mean completely dry.
12-09-2014, 12:36 AM
#6
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 48
I'd go with contact cement as well. 3M 1300 or 1300L is a great glue.
Personally, I wouldn't apply the trim while the glue is wet, though. I'd let it dry well after applying to only to the door panel, then moisten a cloth with acetone, give it a quick wipe on the dry adhesive, then apply the trim.
That will give you a little time to straighten the trim and will keep it in contact with the solvent in the adhesive (1300 and 1300L both use acetone as their solvent...likely most contact cements do as well) as little as possible. It'll also give you an incredibly strong bond.
If you try it this way, when you wipe the solvent onto the dry adhesive, do it very sparingly. It only takes a little and if you have solvent running down all over the place, it'll make a huge mess.
Practice before hand if you are able so you know what to expect; applying a piece of T-shirt to a piece of cardboard or plywood with the adhesive will give you a pretty good idea of what to expect when you do it for real.
Personally, I wouldn't apply the trim while the glue is wet, though. I'd let it dry well after applying to only to the door panel, then moisten a cloth with acetone, give it a quick wipe on the dry adhesive, then apply the trim.
That will give you a little time to straighten the trim and will keep it in contact with the solvent in the adhesive (1300 and 1300L both use acetone as their solvent...likely most contact cements do as well) as little as possible. It'll also give you an incredibly strong bond.
If you try it this way, when you wipe the solvent onto the dry adhesive, do it very sparingly. It only takes a little and if you have solvent running down all over the place, it'll make a huge mess.
Practice before hand if you are able so you know what to expect; applying a piece of T-shirt to a piece of cardboard or plywood with the adhesive will give you a pretty good idea of what to expect when you do it for real.
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