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Old 02-09-2015, 10:17 PM
  #11  
gmoran1469
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Originally Posted by MuscleStangGT05
Ahhh, do you like it? I've been wanting to do a brake cooling kit....i feel like I toast my rotors during street racing of going up to 100+ then slamming on the brakes for up coming traffic, or most recently, people pulling out in front of me. Is it easy to turn off? Here in Oregon it rains A LOT! So it'd be nice to have the ability to open and close it with ease. I've seen a couple home-made kits, but I've come to learn the cheap way ends up being the expensive way in the long run.
There's nothing to turn off, it's just a scoop with 3" ducting that goes to a mount point that you install in place of your brake dust shield. Water doesn't matter.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:05 AM
  #12  
Simon1
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Originally Posted by gmoran1469
What's it from then? Remember, no whine at all at any speeds on the coast side, only on hard acceleration. I would think less teeth per revolution = more noise.
I don't know why it makes noise. it would have something to do with the install. I've had four sets of 4.10s installed and all have been silent. I take that back. Another set done by Ford were horribly loud.

I am lucky to have a guy in the town I live in that specializes in gear installs. He has done gear installs for along time and stands behind his work.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Simon1
I don't know why it makes noise. it would have something to do with the install. I've had four sets of 4.10s installed and all have been silent. I take that back. Another set done by Ford were horribly loud.

I am lucky to have a guy in the town I live in that specializes in gear installs. He has done gear installs for along time and stands behind his work.
Damn, 4 sets? Did you damage the first 3?

Now that I've had some more seat time in the car there is some whine on the coast side. Oh well, at least I learned how to do it properly, I just need to take the time to get my pattern more in the center. Hardest part of the whole install is removing/re-installing the races and really it wasn't too bad. I'm thinking about pulling the rear end and doing the next install with it off the car, should make it a bit easier on me.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:33 PM
  #14  
Simon1
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Originally Posted by gmoran1469
Damn, 4 sets? Did you damage the first 3?

Now that I've had some more seat time in the car there is some whine on the coast side. Oh well, at least I learned how to do it properly, I just need to take the time to get my pattern more in the center. Hardest part of the whole install is removing/re-installing the races and really it wasn't too bad. I'm thinking about pulling the rear end and doing the next install with it off the car, should make it a bit easier on me.
Let's see if I can recall correctly.

Started out with 3.55, switched to 4.10s. Bad install so they replaced them. Got a turbo, switched back to 3.55. Went back to an SC, switched back to 4.10s. Sheared all of the bolts out of the ring gear and broke a Detroit locker, toasted everything in the rear diff except the axles. Switched to a Detroit Tru Trac with a new set of 4.10s.

I'm pretty happy with it now. Everything seems to be in harmony. But I'm switching to a 4r70w pretty soon. I'm wondering how 4.10s will be with that combo. The builder has said it will be fine so we will see. I should drop atleast down into the 10.30-.40 range. If I turn up the power than who knows.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:01 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Simon1
Let's see if I can recall correctly.

Started out with 3.55, switched to 4.10s. Bad install so they replaced them. Got a turbo, switched back to 3.55. Went back to an SC, switched back to 4.10s. Sheared all of the bolts out of the ring gear and broke a Detroit locker, toasted everything in the rear diff except the axles. Switched to a Detroit Tru Trac with a new set of 4.10s.

I'm pretty happy with it now. Everything seems to be in harmony. But I'm switching to a 4r70w pretty soon. I'm wondering how 4.10s will be with that combo. The builder has said it will be fine so we will see. I should drop atleast down into the 10.30-.40 range. If I turn up the power than who knows.
Damn son. That's a lot of banging on your rear end. I don't do any hard launches really and if I do it's not dropping the clutch at 3-4k or anything, just a smooth takeoff then wot gear jamming. I think if I do redo the rear I will put 3.73's in it. Seems like a better ratio for me since I don't really drag race the car. I just had theese 4.10's for going on 5 years and wanted to get them in the car.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by gmoran1469
Damn son. That's a lot of banging on your rear end. I don't do any hard launches really and if I do it's not dropping the clutch at 3-4k or anything, just a smooth takeoff then wot gear jamming. I think if I do redo the rear I will put 3.73's in it. Seems like a better ratio for me since I don't really drag race the car. I just had theese 4.10's for going on 5 years and wanted to get them in the car.
It doesn't help that I drive aorund on Nitto DRs 305/45/18s that hook really good on the street with ~540 rwhp.

At the track, I get low 1.5x 60'. About 4k rpms ouncing off the two step and then side step the clutch. The Mcleod RST has done me really well at the track and the street. But driving around at this power level is hell on the rear end, brakes, tires and the clutch. I don't care about the tranny as I'm putting a new one in.
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:12 PM
  #17  
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Ordered another set of gears, 3.73's this time. I really wasn't fond of running 2k RPM at 60mph. I think 3.73's will be a better fit for me. Got the FRPP install kit along with it so now I have a lot of shims to pick through. Gonna try a different method of install this time. Gonna start the pinion at what it's stamped. I have a buddy with a machine shop and I'm going to get him to make me a pinion depth tool which is basically just some round bar milled half way through to find the center line of the axles. That mounts to two pucks that I will have milled to the OD of the races that hold the LSD in place. From there you can find the depth of the pinion based on the center of rotation for the axles. Should make the next install a breeze.
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Old 02-12-2015, 07:19 PM
  #18  
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Yeah I do a lot of freeway driving and def had to adjust my driving.....before I drove 75-80 all the time....now it's like 74-79....jk! Actually I keep it under 70 now almost all the time. The quick gears are a blast tho! Maybe it's a blessing in disguise getting to redo them after seeing 4.10s are a little much. Good luck with it man!
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Old 02-13-2015, 05:47 PM
  #19  
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I did 4.10s on my 14, and after that I won't put any other gear into a manual trans car.

When I did a 3.73 swap on my 2013, I had a whine at 80mph, through my abusive driving nature it only became worse and eventually, due to a bad install I ended up puking the rear. I took it to another guy 70 miles from me based on Word of Mouth for the new install prior to selling the car and he made it perfect, no whine at all.

If you get on it quite often expect another gear replacement in 10-20k.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:45 PM
  #20  
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Congrats OP on doing it yourself. I did my own on my '10 and they had just a touch of whine on accell. I ran them like that for 12k miles with no problems.

I had 4.10s and I can say, don't fear the gear! I was in New Mexico at the time and it was almost all highway driving for extended periods... You get used to it!

Edit: having said all that, I don't know that I would do another gear swap in my garage. The PITA it is makes the extra cost to pay some one worth it to me.

Last edited by Never2mucHP; 02-13-2015 at 09:47 PM.
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