BismoFunyuns

Looking to boost my bolton 3v. 2006 with 88k on it.. I have ***** thumpr cams and headers, would either of those help me with going FI? I have a cai, but I know the air intake wont be used. The person that works on my car said that these cams wouldn't work well with a roots/twinscrew due to them having a lot of overlap. He said they'd work best with nitrous, possibly work with a centrifugal.

I was looking at either a procharger or a vortech supercharger. I'm guessing 10lbs of boost is the max to keep it safe, so would a good fuel system, intercooled setup, plus one of those on 10lbs get me to 500rwhp safely since I'm only at 10lbs of boost?

That's my idea setup, anyone else have any other advice?

hammeron

if it is the stock shortblock, i would stay around 450rwhp. you can probably get close to that with your thumpers, 10psi and a conservative tune.

BismoFunyuns

Interesting. One guy here with a Kb twinscrew on 10psi is making 480rwhp with no other supporting mods.. Also, I've read that the only thing bad for your motor is boost. Having 10psi making 450rwhp, and having 10psi + cams,exhaust,intercooler making 520rwhp isn't anymore dangerous from the info I've gathered so far.

Kyle@ROUSH

520 wheel HP on a stock bottom end will have you on borrowed time IMO.

jpplaw

Stock rods have broken at less than 300 rwhp. There's no magic number. To be blunt, they are cheap crap. Any kind of boost and you are on borrowed time.

Notwithstanding the above, I ran 475 rwhp at 9 psi for quite awhile with the stock shortblock, cams and headers.

breathegood

My builder told me he put a supercharger (don't remember what kind, but think it was a Whipple) on a customer's car that already had the ***** Thumpr cams and he had to pulley it way up to get any boost out of it. Customer ended up going back to stock cams and made more power on less pulley and less aggressive tune.

BismoFunyuns

I've heard it's not about how much power you make, it's about how much stress is being put on the motor. A car without headers on 10psi should be making 460-480rwhp. Add long tubes and exhaust and you'll actually lose boost but gain about 15-25rwhp. Because your motor is being more efficient, but not adding any additional stress on the motor.

jz

You have at least three members on here giving you information about the weakness of the bottom end of our cars. Two of them are driving boosted cars, and one works for Roush. It sure seems like you're taking their good experience based advice and putting it on the back burner based off what "you have heard". Be careful, before you stop getting advice from members here.

I have no experience with boost on my Mustang, but have worked with forced induction on my past vehicles. Quality parts make the difference, simple as that. I've blown head gaskets, and cracked piston rings using stuff that I swore was good enough. I've learned from my costly mistakes. You do not need to spend much time searching at all to see how often the bottom end fails and causes significant engine damage on these cars. When I get to the point of FI for my car, it will be on a built bottom end using quality forged parts. I'm not willing to destroy a perfectly good block, because I wanted to gamble with the quality of our stock rotating assembly.

It's your car, and you're free to do what you want with it. But judging by the "experienced" responses so far, I'd say you have been warned about the bottom end.

xkape

I REALLY want cams... but, I have an RS3 with a VMP TVS1900 pushing over 450rwhp. I am, in no way, ready to drop 5 to 10k on a new motor. The extra 20 or so HP is not, in any way, worth it.

Good to roll and no cares in the world

BismoFunyuns

Just because I'm challenging their opinions doesn't mean I'm blowing them off asshat. If they want to stop giving their opinion because I disagree then their opinion isn't worth **** to begin with. I'm not going to base a decision like this off of 3 peoples opinions, I want more opinions.