BismoFunyuns

Isn't 126mph good for 10.7-10.8s? The track here is about 1400ft above sea and during the summer it's about 1500ft-3000ft above including DA.

sactown

126MPH was with my old setup (I could be a little off on the mph), a manual transmission, and a 1.6 or 1.7 60ft, I trap 141-142mph now, with a mid 1.4 60ft MPH won't matter if you can't get a decent 60.

Simon1

The majority of the guys here that are fast run the twin screw blowers. They are easier all around to make the power. Each set up has it's pros and cons, but to each it's own.

Trap speed and ET are a combination of a lot of things. Horsepower, weight, track condition, gearing, transmission, power curve (type of FI), driver's ability...

Our cars are very heavy for a drag car. Someone trapping 126 running a 10.7 would have a very well set up car, with great track prep and an automatic.

Dyno numbers from automatics are tricky. Stall of the convertor does not change the power out put of the motor, it changes torque multiplication gained from the convertor. It's complicated. You should go to some searches on Google or Wiki to read more about it.

For drag racing, the area of the track where cars spend most of their time at is the first 60', then the 300', 1/8 and so on. Increasing short times will give you better times than increasing power only.

I would suggest you find someone with a set up like you want and then copy what they are doing. Don't try and re-invent the wheel. You will spend more money, be frustrated and delay results.

dlazrael

I am hoping to get my car setup finally and run MIR.
08 GT, Stock bottom
Whipple 550 HO intercooled blower @ 11 psi
MAC LT
MAC Prochamber
Pypes Violators
Steeda shocks/struts
Steeda F/R Adj Sways
Steeda Sport Springs
Steeda Chromoloy LCA/UCA (non adj)
Whiteline LCA bracket
3.31 gears (currently, planning 4.10s later)
5 Speed Manual


I was hoping for 11.3-11.5, I am a slightly above average driver. Plan on running 17s with Nitto D/Rs for the strip

Haven't had a dyno, but conservative #s are around 460rwhp and 440 rwtq... (given off others with similar setups)

Weight reduction on track day, remove trunk, back seats, thats it... Driver weighs in at 265lbs

BismoFunyuns

On the stock motor with these cars are the twinscrews as efficient and safe on the motor as the centris and turbos? I heard it takes more power to spin the twinscrews than the centri..

Also you say you actually don't lose power with a higher stall, my friends 99 camaro with a 4k stall only made 350rwhp on a dyno dynamics with all boltons cams and heads. When another camaro thats a stick made 400rwhp on the same dyno with a less agressive cam/head set up. My friends camaro went 11.76 @117 and the stick camaro goes 11.1-11.2s @122.. So if you dont actually lose power then why is the automatic camaro trapping slower? Unless he's losing a **** load through it just being an automatic I would think it'd still be as fast if not a little faster than the stick camaro.

Simon1

I don't know what the exact answer is. To me there is not enough info to answer the question correctly.

The stall on a convertor puts the motor into the power band faster. It doesn't change power output. It changes the way it's applied. Different auto trannies have different efficencies so I can't really answer you.

The best example I can give you is a car like mine. I trap around 126-129 and run 11.0-11.15 generally. Cars like mine that have switched to an auto have lost .3-.7 of a second off of their ET and their MPH doesn't change much. The difference is the tranny, not the convertor. Just with a tranny swap I should be able to run in the 10.5 range at the same power level I am at.

Locking and unlocking a transmission will make a huge difference on a dyno.

I would imagine twine screws and centris are about the same efficency. On street sized comparable blowers moving around the same air they make around the same power. So i don't know. Never had a centri or played with one much.

Turbos are obviously the most efficent IMO..

Simon1

I would guess high 11's with that set up.

You will need a clutch. Most prefer the Mcloed RST.

A different tire. Probably MT ET Streets. If you want a lot of weight reduction, and the best traction, get a set of bogart big/littles.

I would choose a different spring/shock/strut pack for the car IF you want the best drag set up.

If you are more concerned with the looks and driving around on the street, then get the sport lines.

Simon1

I thought it was a good read...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter

BismoFunyuns

That would make sense.. the stick 3v mustangs are in 12s with an intake and tune and I still haven't broken into the 12s with more rwhp than they are making.. I didn't realize switching transmissions could make such a big difference.. Why exactly? Couldn't you set up the shift points on the stock trans.. Or does an aftermarket one shift faster/better?

Dino Dino Bambino

Twin screws are near full boost from as little as 2000rpm and deliver a bigger slug of torque over a wider rpm range than centris or Roots blowers. Centris usually produce little boost below 3000rpm but they really come on strong at higher rpm. Turbos can feel sluggish when off boost but when that boost does come, it feels like a nitrous shot.