Engine Failsafe Mode???
#11
UPDATE....
Ok, got the part swapped out today. Cleared the codes out and the check engine light is gone. Took it out for a ride and damn it, the car died on the road while driving. Lost power and shut off. This is what it was doing before. Turned it back on, it was fine until it happened a little while later as I was pulling into my driveway. No check engine light, nothing. Now I am really stumped.
Ok, got the part swapped out today. Cleared the codes out and the check engine light is gone. Took it out for a ride and damn it, the car died on the road while driving. Lost power and shut off. This is what it was doing before. Turned it back on, it was fine until it happened a little while later as I was pulling into my driveway. No check engine light, nothing. Now I am really stumped.
#12
Can you tell me what the PCM is? So if it is a wiring problem, what would be the best way to troubleshoot and or fix? Is it possible to run new wires to see if that works? Can I do a continuity test on the wires to determine what's bad? Damn, I hate electrical gremlins, never had a lot of luck with them.
#13
the powertrain control module= the engine computer, the problem is intermittent, otherwise it would go into failsafe as soon as you started it, so that makes the concern hard to diag, because most of the time there is no fault and all will check good. a wire overlay is a good idea, but it has to be done correctly, and you need to know tha layout of the circuits to make sure that there are no splices to account for. its not a job for the non experienced.
#14
the powertrain control module= the engine computer, the problem is intermittent, otherwise it would go into failsafe as soon as you started it, so that makes the concern hard to diag, because most of the time there is no fault and all will check good. a wire overlay is a good idea, but it has to be done correctly, and you need to know tha layout of the circuits to make sure that there are no splices to account for. its not a job for the non experienced.
#15
Don't know if this problem ever got fixed, but I have a 2005 Mustang GT manual trans 44000 miles manufactured 05/05. My car has stock tune. It coded P2106 and P2135 on Thursday and had idle problems with occasional fail safe mode before that. I watched a Brenspeed video on throttle cleaning. I bought a $3.94 can of CRC Throttle Body & Air Intake cleaner. I pulled the throttle body, repeated their cleaning procedure, and reinstalled. The check engine light, the codes, and the driveability problems are gone. Hope you resolved the issue, if not, there may be a very simple solution.
#16
An Update: My check engine light came back on. The counterman read the check engine codes at my Advance Store in Aylett, Virginia. P2106 and P2135 were back. Both of the codes pointed toward a problem with my throttle position sensor TPS. I have a 2005 Ford Mustang 4.6 V8. Advance had the EC3337 TPS in stock, so I purchased it. Paper directions come with the EC3337 TPS and match the directions in the factory shop manual. The first thing I noticed was that in the EC3337 TPS, the slot for the tang at the end of the shaft on which the throttle blades rotate was not properly indexed. I had to slide the sensor part way onto the shaft and then turn the sensor to get the holes for the mounting screws to line up. I did that and torqued the screws at 27 inch pounds. After reconnecting the electrical connector at the TPS and the negative battery cable, I started the car. The check engine light came on immediately and the car went into Failsafe mode. "Failsafe mode" appeared in the dash. The car had no throttle response. I turned off the car. Although the directions didn't require it, I tried pushing the pedal slowly down for 10 seconds and releasing for 10 seconds to see if the PCM could learn the new TPS. On restart, I still had all the same problems. I took the TPS back. The Advance store ordered a second EC3337 which came in from Roanoke the next morning. I installed it and had the exact same experience: no throttle response, check engine light, Failsafe mode. I returned the second TPS for a refund. I then called a Ford dealer. I purchased a Motorcraft TPS DY-1164. It had proper indexing for the throttle shaft. I pressed it into position, installed the new factory screws at 27 inch pounds, then reconnected the electrical connector for the TPS and the negative battery cable. I had the car up and running with perfect throttle response and no check engine light within about 20 minutes. By contrast, I wasted over 3 hours on 2 EC3337 that were bad from the factory. My Advance store has excellent service quality. Too bad the manufacturing quality of the BWD EC3337 was so poor. Wondered if anyone else had the same experience? Also wondered if I made some mistake with the BWD part?
#18
Thanks for the reply, JWOG. That would explain how the counterman could look up the right part number, but the part was still wrong. I wrote a detailed review for the part number on Advance's website, sharing the problems I had. I hope someone at Advance reads it and fixes the problem.
#19
I have had terrible experience with BDW replacement parts within the last year. 1-2007 Pontiac, 2 in a row, purge valves bad, 2-2004 F150 IAC bad. ill go to the local pullapart place and get used before I try BDW anything again.
#20
I agree. I suspect quality control at the BWD manufacturing plant in China (or wherever) is extremely poor. When I went to tech school many years ago, the instructor taught that 9 times out of 10, the problem is the guy looking back at me in the mirror, but I think with BWD, it really is the parts. I was afraid BWD might be the maker for private labels like Duralast (AutoZone) and Echlin (NAPA). I just bit the bullet and paid $108.45 for Motorcraft at my local Ford dealer. (The dealer came down from $133.35 when I asked for a better price. Still pretty high.) The Motorcraft part is made in Canada and has the white lettering on the TPS. It is literally 2 screws, 2 electrical connections, and drive 10 miles for PCM to relearn fuel trim. Done.
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