427Impala

I use the hand pump Motive pressure bleeder, works great.
Question - does anyone know of an adaptor that does not require extreme push force?? The Motive adaptor is way to hard to push in, I am concerned about cracking the plastic resovour.

...and what is the sensor on the side of the oil pan?? I will slowly learn this critter.

...and once the front sway bar bushing bolts are loosened, does the lower bolt slide up and out, or does it stay captured??

Thnx

Joey in VA

Scott2

What is the part number of your Motive Bleeder? The right one for our cars is model 0118.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/produ...er-bleeder-kit

427Impala

S2 you're brilliant. I just assumed it would be a press in as the Motive item is for my 2003 Marauder, an item I used only once since I was not happy with the force required to press it in. I wound-up making my own 'clamp-on' adaptor using the lip as the anchor surface.
I did not know the Mustang Adaptor was a twist-on with flat gaskets. Thnx a bunch.

Scott2

Your welcome.

By any chance have you siphoned the brake fluid from your master cylinder. I am about to do this for a Line Lock install and when I took the cap off to take a peak I noticed that there is a plastic cross piece that blocks access of my "turkey baster". If you drained your master, how did you do it?

Derf00

Sorry for butting in but, I've done the same thing in my mustang. To clear out the MC reservoir I used a mity-vac hand vacuum pump kit like this one. http://mityvac.com/hq_images/MV8000.jpg The end that normally goes from the catch tank to your brake bleeder valve at the wheel would simply get fed into the master cylinder. It will take two or three tank fulls to clear most of the old fluid out of the reservoir.

Derf00

With regard to the front sway bar bushings, both bolts on each side get completely removed along with the U-bracket that goes over the bushing itself. The sway bar bushings themselves are not split so, if you are replacing them with OEM style that are also not split, you'll need to pop the stabilizer bar links off at the strut end to remove the bar with the links completely and replace the bushings.

The lower mounts of the links to the bar itself are nearly impossible to get back on to the proper torque (85 ft lbs) while in the vehicle because there is not enough clearance for a torque wrench. For that reason, I recommend removing the bar with the links attached. The top link to strut nuts are easy peasy. With the bar + links attached it's easy to remove and reattach the links to the bar then the links to the struts.

427Impala

Thnx Derf and Scott.
I use a syringe with small tube to extract the fluid.