Will I need headers to reach 305hp/320ft-lbs at the wheels?

MTBer · 07-30-2009, 05:12 AM

I haven't dynoed yet so don't know where I currently stand. My goal is to make the advertised numbers for the Mach at the wheels, and I'm hoping a dyno tune will do it. Or will I need more? If I factor in that these cars were a little underrated, I figure I need to have gained about 35hp and 40ft-lbs including current mods plus a dyno tune.

Mods: K&N FIPK, PHP intake spacer, catted x-pipe, SLP catback w/ LM2's.

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Justinr1001 · 07-30-2009, 09:06 AM

I have pretty much the same set-up, C&L intake, O/R x, and flowmasters, no spacer and a dyno tune on a mustang dyno i made 293 hp and 303 tq. So i would say you would be really close.

mrtstang · 07-30-2009, 10:29 AM

This guy in our group has the same mods plus long tubes and a custom tune. He pulled 303 rwhp/315 rwtq on a dynojet.

USMCrebel · 07-30-2009, 12:07 PM

you don't have to have them, but it does make things easier and cheaper

darkmach1 · 07-30-2009, 03:23 PM

Technically, you should make 300+whp and 315+wtq with those mods and an aggressive tune. Longtubes should put you at around 315-320whp and 330-335wtq.

MTBer · 07-30-2009, 05:18 PM

Thanks everybody, good to know I'm at least in the ballpark. From what I've read around the forums, stock hp can vary from the 260's to the 280's, so hopefully mine at least started somewhere in between.

I've also read something about different ECU's- a T code vs a Z code, and as luck would have it, mine's the T, which is supposed to be weaker somehow. Could anyone elaborate on that? I searched but couldn't really find specifics.

I'll probably go with a custom SCT tune and have them do a dyno before and after. I wouldn't want to go too aggressive on the tune just for peace of mind. If I end up wanting headers, I'll probably wait and throw on a FRPP aluminum driveshaft in the meantime to free up a minor amount of power.

For ease of installation, cost, and street legality, I was also thinking equal-length shorty headers. Would this be a waste? (As a bonus, I wouldn't have to change out my x-pipe for a shorter one).

darkmach1 · 07-30-2009, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTBer

Thanks everybody, good to know I'm at least in the ballpark. From what I've read around the forums, stock hp can vary from the 260's to the 280's, so hopefully mine at least started somewhere in between.

I've also read something about different ECU's- a T code vs a Z code, and as luck would have it, mine's the T, which is supposed to be weaker somehow. Could anyone elaborate on that? I searched but couldn't really find specifics.

I'll probably go with a custom SCT tune and have them do a dyno before and after. I wouldn't want to go too aggressive on the tune just for peace of mind. If I end up wanting headers, I'll probably wait and throw on a FRPP aluminum driveshaft in the meantime to free up a minor amount of power.

For ease of installation, cost, and street legality, I was also thinking equal-length shorty headers. Would this be a waste? (As a bonus, I wouldn't have to change out my x-pipe for a shorter one).

Kooks longtubes or none.

MTBer · 07-30-2009, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkmach1

Kooks longtubes or none.

Ouch those aren't cheap. Ya gotta pay to play though so I better start saving pennies. Looks like I'd be pushing $2k with tubes, new x-pipe, and installation

rygi23 · 07-30-2009, 06:05 PM

your #s will be close on a dynojet, though IMO tuning on a SAE corrected dyno yields better actual gains. Most dynojets aren't corrected.

darkmach1 · 07-30-2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTBer

Ouch those aren't cheap. Ya gotta pay to play though so I better start saving pennies. Looks like I'd be pushing $2k with tubes, new x-pipe, and installation

Yes but you get what you pay for and you wont have to remove them to get to the tranny in the future.