TR-6060 Swap
07-31-2012, 01:12 PM
#103
Transmission was "persuaded" just before I got hit with a kidney stone (too many days working in the heat on this probably). Going to take some Percocet and try to rest, but here's the current status:
Got as far as getting the shifter connected up:
I agree with Brian about the T56 Magnum. Awesome but $$$.
I tried out the shifter on this. It's very positive with no notchiness in the throws. It's just snap,snap between gears. If that maintains when driving, I don't think I'll feel too left out not getting the magnum.
One odd thing is the housing on this had some T-56 stenciling on top. I know the TR-6060 is basically the OEM T-56, but wasn't expecting to see it marked as such.
Soon as I'm able to get back on it, there's the driveshaft, then a bit of wiring and throwing the exhaust back on...
Got as far as getting the shifter connected up:
I agree with Brian about the T56 Magnum. Awesome but $$$.
I tried out the shifter on this. It's very positive with no notchiness in the throws. It's just snap,snap between gears. If that maintains when driving, I don't think I'll feel too left out not getting the magnum.
One odd thing is the housing on this had some T-56 stenciling on top. I know the TR-6060 is basically the OEM T-56, but wasn't expecting to see it marked as such.
Soon as I'm able to get back on it, there's the driveshaft, then a bit of wiring and throwing the exhaust back on...
08-01-2012, 09:01 PM
#105
Dodged a problem with the drive shaft. The DSS GT500 unit comes with a prominent full size sheet of paper warning NOT to run the shaft unless the measurement between the end of the aluminum shaft and the edge of the CV joint collar is between 3.25" and 3.75"
This area:
Sure enough, when mine is bolted up and torqued, the measurement is 3.125"...
Called DSS and the guy answering the phone was honest and not full of BS, and stated flat out he wasn't sure if it was going to be a problem or not, and said I should talk to Frank, the owner, and that he'd leave a message asking Frank to phone me.
Got a call from Frank a little while ago, and he said I'm good. There's a little extra margin in the safe operating range, but they want to be sure to talk to anyone that's not dead center of the spec. Extremely relieved, I'm going nuts without the car. (plus these CV shafts are supposed to be like silk, even at very high speed)
This area:
Sure enough, when mine is bolted up and torqued, the measurement is 3.125"...
Called DSS and the guy answering the phone was honest and not full of BS, and stated flat out he wasn't sure if it was going to be a problem or not, and said I should talk to Frank, the owner, and that he'd leave a message asking Frank to phone me.
Got a call from Frank a little while ago, and he said I'm good. There's a little extra margin in the safe operating range, but they want to be sure to talk to anyone that's not dead center of the spec. Extremely relieved, I'm going nuts without the car. (plus these CV shafts are supposed to be like silk, even at very high speed)
Last edited by Torch_Vert; 08-01-2012 at 09:33 PM.
08-01-2012, 09:44 PM
#106
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mass
Posts: 2,662
Dodged a problem with the drive shaft. The DSS GT500 unit comes with a prominent full size sheet of paper warning NOT to run the shaft unless the measurement between the end of the aluminum shaft and the edge of the CV joint collar is between 3.25" and 3.75"
This area:
Sure enough, when mine is bolted up and torqued, the measurement is 3.125"...
Called DSS and the guy answering the phone was honest and not full of BS, and stated flat out he wasn't sure if it was going to be a problem or not, and said I should talk to Frank, the owner, and that he'd leave a message asking Frank to phone me.
Got a call from Frank a little while ago, and he said I'm good. There's a little extra margin in the safe operating range, but they want to be sure to talk to anyone that's not dead center of the spec. Extremely relieved, I'm going nuts without the car. (plus these CV shafts are supposed to be like silk, even at very high speed)
This area:
Sure enough, when mine is bolted up and torqued, the measurement is 3.125"...
Called DSS and the guy answering the phone was honest and not full of BS, and stated flat out he wasn't sure if it was going to be a problem or not, and said I should talk to Frank, the owner, and that he'd leave a message asking Frank to phone me.
Got a call from Frank a little while ago, and he said I'm good. There's a little extra margin in the safe operating range, but they want to be sure to talk to anyone that's not dead center of the spec. Extremely relieved, I'm going nuts without the car. (plus these CV shafts are supposed to be like silk, even at very high speed)
08-19-2012, 12:43 PM
#109
Well, started the car for the first time in about a month and a half a few minutes ago. Started right up, thankfully, and no weird noises from the new transmission or clutch.
Been a long haul on this project due to several technical snags, weather delays and a couple health hiccups.
The latest delay was due to the fact that the passenger side front O2 sensor had insufficient clearence, even though I'd relocated it as specified by the transmission adapter manufacturer. As near as I can figure, my JBA shorty headers move the entire exhaust forward about 1" from the factory manifold position, and that's enough to eliminate the possibility of the O2 fitting where the adapter kit intends.
Had to work out a new location for having a new O2 bung welded in, as well as drilling out the original factory O2 bung location and having a flat plate welded over that spot as the old unused bung was contacting the bellhousing and adapter (again thanks to the header shift). The clearance at the edge of the bellhousing to the pipe is only about 1/4" even with the bung removed.
Modding can be such fun
Been a long haul on this project due to several technical snags, weather delays and a couple health hiccups.
The latest delay was due to the fact that the passenger side front O2 sensor had insufficient clearence, even though I'd relocated it as specified by the transmission adapter manufacturer. As near as I can figure, my JBA shorty headers move the entire exhaust forward about 1" from the factory manifold position, and that's enough to eliminate the possibility of the O2 fitting where the adapter kit intends.
Had to work out a new location for having a new O2 bung welded in, as well as drilling out the original factory O2 bung location and having a flat plate welded over that spot as the old unused bung was contacting the bellhousing and adapter (again thanks to the header shift). The clearance at the edge of the bellhousing to the pipe is only about 1/4" even with the bung removed.
Modding can be such fun
Last edited by Torch_Vert; 08-19-2012 at 01:58 PM.
08-19-2012, 12:52 PM
#110
Just a note on the clutch line upgrade mentioned earlier in this thread. There was an unanticipated side benefit to installing it. Bleeding the clutch was a piece of cake with the new line...
Anyone that's ever bled an S197 clutch knows what an absolute biotch it can be. You usually end up pumping forever, sometime have to jack one side up high or even pull a vacuum on the reservoir.
With the new unrestricted line, it was like 10-15 pumps of the pedal after connecting everything back up to get a proper non-spongy pedal
Anyone that's ever bled an S197 clutch knows what an absolute biotch it can be. You usually end up pumping forever, sometime have to jack one side up high or even pull a vacuum on the reservoir.
With the new unrestricted line, it was like 10-15 pumps of the pedal after connecting everything back up to get a proper non-spongy pedal
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