**Well Kerry, that answer isn't as simple as you might think. *I'm still in contact with Dean Oshiro of Gorrilla Performance, and he's great. *So, I'd casually recommend his setup over CNC's. *But, either way, be prepared to do some fabrication work for yourself.
****Okay, I'll talk start with CNC brakes first, because as you know, I'm running CNC's setup. *CNC is now being run by the daughter of the man that started CNC brakes and she's no pleasure to deal with. *Her technical skill are mediocre at best and she won't admit mistakes or correct problems. **
In order to make CNC's setup work correctly, I had to remake the balance bar sleeve by hand because she welded the pedal pushrod tube onto the balance bar sleeve without any way of securely retaining the brake pedal pushrod, I asked her to thread it for me, and she refused. *Additionally, while she did polish the two master cylinders, she forgot to polish the firewall mount adapter as I asked, and never issued a refund on the two silly residual pressure valves I returned or the polishing work I paid for but did not receive.
**Because my car has a collapseable steering column, which is typical on 1968 and later Mustangs, you can't attach Gorilla Performance's bracket properly. So, your cars under-dash space will decide Gorrila Performance vs CNC for you. *If you have a car like mine, or you intend to use a power booster, CNC's bracket #241 is pretty much your only option.
***Now, lets talk about Gorilla Performance's bal-bar setup. In order to install this correctly, you really should remove the pedal support and brake pedal from the car, this certainly will be no picnic. Because in order to do things right, you'll need to precisely drill a hole in the brake pedal to secure Dean's pedal mounted balance bar sleeve. Doing this will remove any possibity of re-using the stock pedal mounted stop lamp switch. So, be prepared to add a pressure-operated switch in one of the brake lines or re-engineer a pedal movement switch on the pedal support. *CNC's setup re-uses your existing pedal pushrod, whereas Dean's dosen't, so thusly CNC does not interfear with your stock stop lamp switch.
***I love manual brakes with balance bars, but they aren't for the faint of heart. *There is no better way to maximize brake bias and pedal modulation. *But, manual disc brakes don't "bite" the way most people expect, and they require some leg. *So, be prepared.
**Currently, I am about to completely re-engineer that Mustang yet again. I won't be using either Dean's Bal-Bar or CNC's setup this time. I'm transferring my CNC bracket, balance bar sleeve, and balance bar to my hydroboosted truck, and replacing the two .750 bore CNC brake masters that were in use on the manual braked Mustang with two 1.125 bore masters for the boosted truck. *Unless Dean has his billet masters ready, I'll probably buy the new masters for the truck from CNC despite their awful customer service. CNC's masters are actually very nice. *They are compact, easy to service, and they are stainless steel sleeved. *For the Mustang, I'm going to make a steel plate to mount two large coaxial-bore Mico master cylinders directly to the firewall. *Similar to the way Dean of Gorilla Performance does his straight bore Wilwood master cylinders, but I'm not going to use his pedal mounted balance bar sleeve thingy, instead I'm going cut a replacement brake pedal in two pieces and weld a traditional steel balance bar tube directly in the middle of the pedal, and I will also be adding a second set of Wilwood 4-piston forged superlites to all four rotors. After doing the math, it's actually cheaper and more effective to use two sets of 4-piston calipers per rotor then use a single large 6-piston caliper on each rotor.
**I hope I've been able to shed some light on this subject for you. *If you have any other questions, feel free to write again.
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