408 stroker swap, help needed
09-01-2012, 03:43 PM
#12
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
With boost, on say......... a 408.
You'll need 225cc heads, either from AFR or Trick Flow matted to a Victor Junior intake.
I'm not a pro by no means but talk to engine builders at World Performance or even Roush/Yates.
Those guys know what combo works best with a particulate desired HP and so on...
Figure out where you wanna be at, and which budget will get you there, then make your move.
You'll need 225cc heads, either from AFR or Trick Flow matted to a Victor Junior intake.
I'm not a pro by no means but talk to engine builders at World Performance or even Roush/Yates.
Those guys know what combo works best with a particulate desired HP and so on...
Figure out where you wanna be at, and which budget will get you there, then make your move.
09-13-2012, 06:12 PM
#14
But now my dilemma is money. 
Anyone have a winning lottery ticket I can borrow? lolI like trick flow, so I'd go with High Ports or TW-Rs with their stage three cam and R-model intake. Just call Trick Flow and they'll tell you want they'd suggest. Heck, you can call my buddy Gregg and Trick Flow and tell him Sharad sent you.
With regard to suspension, UPR Pro Street suspension. Let me know when you're ready to upgrade and I'll call you to go over all of the small details and choices involved.
09-13-2012, 06:40 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,761
A solid build with premium quality parts will run about $15K from top to bottom, good for near 1000HP levels..
Nothing is cheap when you get to those levels.. 500-600 is much easier and cheaper to do and can easily be done for under 9K top to bottom with new quality parts.. Of course, cost goes way down with used or cheaper parts.. These kind of estimates are with pieces that are going to make the power reliably and safely
Nothing is cheap when you get to those levels.. 500-600 is much easier and cheaper to do and can easily be done for under 9K top to bottom with new quality parts.. Of course, cost goes way down with used or cheaper parts.. These kind of estimates are with pieces that are going to make the power reliably and safely
09-15-2012, 10:41 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 347
Thanks. What I was getting at with my initial post is that max N/A horsepower is EXPENSIVE and does not have good street driveability. Whereas the same horsepower level is EASILY attainable with LESS money and GREATER driveability if you add boost.
Like I said 800hp N/A is a big money, poor driveability, high strung deal. Whereas, 800hp boosted can be made with a stock blocked 351 and a Novi2000. Believe it or not, the boosted combo would be cheaper and have better driveability.
Like I said 800hp N/A is a big money, poor driveability, high strung deal. Whereas, 800hp boosted can be made with a stock blocked 351 and a Novi2000. Believe it or not, the boosted combo would be cheaper and have better driveability.
09-15-2012, 10:52 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 347
Well, you have some very intelligent and knowledgeable people helping you, but I'll add my 2 cents as well.
If possible, find a ROLLER 351w to start your build. Roller motors free up horsepower and, as indicated in the name, roll easier with less friction. Only draw back is that the roller 351w was only made in 94-96, making it sort of hard to find, and when you do, people usually want an arm and a leg for them.
When you're doing your build, the more things you can take off the serpentine system, the better. Air conditioning and power steering really sap power, as does a traditional water pump. Delete your power steering, and go google Flaming River for a manual rack and pinion. Then find, or make your own, A/C delete. You can even get electric water pumps. Then you're just down to an alternator and a fan running off your engine.
Upgrade to a really nice MSD ignition system. The 6AL box should be the very lowest standard to use if you're going to shoot for those kind of numbers, especially with boost. MSD makes boost specific systems even. They also have crank sensing systems that work just like your distributor, just on the crank. That would eliminate your distributor, freeing up some strain since your cam doesn't have to run your distributor.
Have you considered doing a "Clevor" build? If you don't know what it is, it's taking Cleveland heads and putting them on a Windsor block. Very old school, very cool. Not many of them running around, and they make pretty good power if you can find the right heads. 4v open heads have similar flow numbers to higher end ARP cylinder heads, I've done the research myself. They are not as nice as TFS offerings, but a HELL of alot cheaper.
Hope some of this information gets your creative juices flowing.
If possible, find a ROLLER 351w to start your build. Roller motors free up horsepower and, as indicated in the name, roll easier with less friction. Only draw back is that the roller 351w was only made in 94-96, making it sort of hard to find, and when you do, people usually want an arm and a leg for them.
When you're doing your build, the more things you can take off the serpentine system, the better. Air conditioning and power steering really sap power, as does a traditional water pump. Delete your power steering, and go google Flaming River for a manual rack and pinion. Then find, or make your own, A/C delete. You can even get electric water pumps. Then you're just down to an alternator and a fan running off your engine.
Upgrade to a really nice MSD ignition system. The 6AL box should be the very lowest standard to use if you're going to shoot for those kind of numbers, especially with boost. MSD makes boost specific systems even. They also have crank sensing systems that work just like your distributor, just on the crank. That would eliminate your distributor, freeing up some strain since your cam doesn't have to run your distributor.
Have you considered doing a "Clevor" build? If you don't know what it is, it's taking Cleveland heads and putting them on a Windsor block. Very old school, very cool. Not many of them running around, and they make pretty good power if you can find the right heads. 4v open heads have similar flow numbers to higher end ARP cylinder heads, I've done the research myself. They are not as nice as TFS offerings, but a HELL of alot cheaper.
Hope some of this information gets your creative juices flowing.
11-02-2012, 06:55 AM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: buying tires!
Posts: 3,220
i am getting my 408 built right now...iron eagle block..afr 225 heads...etc...i am told it will be around 550 hp na..i will be going the turbo route in 2 years...9.1 compression..800hp na not very streetable and very expensive..my engine will be like 14,000$
11-06-2012, 05:46 PM
#20
Here's a short video I made of the part throttle drivability tuning we did after the WOT pulls. Remember, this is just low-RPM part-throttle work... and it's still trying to jump off of the dyno!