Battery in truck wiring vid.

Jfsram · 08-02-2009, 03:30 AM

Wired up my battery in the trunk to pass NHRA tech inspection.

All I need to do before I tech in for racing is add a rod/handle to reach outside the trunk. It will be through a hole over the taillight and under the trunk lid. It will only be installed when I'm at the track. The rest of the time. I'll just plug the hole and disconnect the push rod.

The way it's wired up. The engine will die when the switch is moved to OFF.
Alternator is always connected to the battery, regardless of switch position.
My starter wire is dead until cranking. This is easy for Mustangs up to 91 but the 92's and up like mine have the big starter wire is always live. Not something I wanted unfused and under the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hOouW3v5yM

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ttocs · 08-02-2009, 07:08 PM

FYI - the technical term for that type of starter kill is a normally-open starter kill.

domindart · 08-02-2009, 07:30 PM

Seems like a lot over my head! I just want a relocation that will pass. I dont need the switch do I?

Jfsram · 08-03-2009, 03:44 AM

That term is too technical for me ttocs. The starter set up was only something I added to leave the big battery wire dead at all times except during cranking. It's actually the same as a factory set up with the solenoid relocated to the rear of the car.

Ddart, it's actually a pretty simple deal. I did a vid because I didn't know how to do a diagram.

If you do a battery relocation to the rear. It must have a switch that kills the engine to pass NHRA tech. Simply opening the connection to the battery will not kill the engine.

P.S.I.cho · 08-04-2009, 09:24 PM

your switch will be backwards, or so it looks, to switch it off your flipping it twards the trunk wich means you would have to pull your rod. i had my switch like this and it passed several times but then i got 1 dickhead tech inspector who pointed it out and it wouldnt pass..has to be push off i guess?

Jfsram · 08-04-2009, 11:15 PM

Not going to use the handle that came with the switch. It's coming off and I'll make a bellcrank that will be opposite the handle.

That's why I mounted the switch towards the battery. So I can install the bellcrank towards the passenger side of the car.

Realistically it will probably be a while. I may not even do it. No plans to race the car any time soon.

FivePointOhh · 08-05-2009, 11:56 AM

i have no sound at work so maybe you explain it....but i dont see an accessable way to shut off the switch unless the trunk is open? 2009 NHRA rules is it must be easily accessable switch or push/pull rod from the outside of the vehicle. if its a switch it must be clearly marked "ON/OFF" or a push/pull switch the "push" must kill all power to the car.

P.S.I.cho · 08-05-2009, 08:21 PM

he stated he was going to drill a hole for a push-rod in the trunk

Jfsram · 08-05-2009, 10:10 PM

Thanks PSI. Yes it was going to add the rod later.

It was a rush job because the previous owner used amplifier power wire from the battery to the solenoid and I'd get slow cranking when hot. The battery was already in the trunk with the master switch only disconnecting the battery and flipping the switch would let the alt keep the car running. As you know, not NHRA legal.

So right now at least it's running and starting (even when hot) and it kills the engine when the switch flipped. I will eventually remove the handle, which is facing the driver's side and place a bellcrank, facing the passenger side. Drill a hole behind the taillight panel and have a rod reaching through to the bellcrank. This way I can also remove it for street driving.

P.S.I.cho · 08-05-2009, 11:01 PM

my 03 cobra was wired similar as far as the clutch goes i have what i think is 12 gauge wire with an inline fuse running in 15 amp fuse to energize the flaming river solenoid, then going out i had the bat + and alternator, where u just did the bat as u killed the ecu which in turn kills the car as well. but i bought my car wired this way and it works so i figure just leave it as is.