no_powder_2

I drive a 73 mach 1 with a 351cj (q-code) with the stock c6 trans. I've had the motor bored .030, mild performance cam and increased compression to 10.5-1. Hooker headers and an edlbrock 600cfm. Completly stock the motor claims 266 hp. I recently had mine dynod and only got 179.8 hp at the wheels by his math at 20% loss I'm sitting at 230 or so at the crank. After doing all that how could I have lost power? It also accelerates from 0-60 in roughly 11 sec which seems extremely slow. Any info would be appreciated

jwog666

well, to start the stock heads are no friend to performance, 10:1 compression ratio or not, if you cant get air in, or out, performance will suffer. a "mild performance cam" doesnt really mean anything. there are so many variables that come together to make power, and you havent given any specifics to the cam, heads, intake manifold, timing, or if the compression ratio was actually measured, or if it was someones best guess based on some guesstimate. get some specifics, and post them. after that i bet somebody will be able to get to the bottom of your lack of power.

2007 GT//CS

I would also double check the top end of the valve train to be sure all the rocker arms are adjusted correctly and that the push rod leingth is correct.also check fule pressure to be sure fule system is working correctly, including the carburetor adjustments.also like stated above all added components must be carefully chosen to add Preformance.in my experience with fords being 351w,302,390fe motors that I have built over the years there alot of things that can help wake the motor up.here's a few things:MSD 6AL ignition box,MSD Blaster ignition coil,dule plane intake manifold,a good set of heads and you can go with steel heads if your on a budget and don't get your combustion chambers to big so you keep good compression, you said you had a cam but need to probly go with a 520 lift set up for good low end torque and decent high end H.P.,headers are great for opening up exhaust,roller rockers will free up a few H.P. as well.main thing is you want balance of reliability and H.P. so you enjoy driving and not a bunch of time wrenching on your motor after your done with mods.also do a compression test and check timing.timing can certainly cause power loss and compression only if there was something that was skrewed up on assembly of the motor.hope this helps!

2007 GT//CS

Also need specifics on entire motor like said above

no_powder_2

K I'm trying to attach a photo of the cam spec paper hope it works. I have very little experience working on motors so I don't understand how to do much. I am slowly learning. The guy that did the dyno tuned the carb and timing. Though his computer says the fuel/air mix is perfect it smells really rich to me. I don't have funds to buy much in terms of aftermarket or professional help.

2007 GT//CS

Ok so its a .494 gross lift cam. For street use for a flat tapped cam that's not bad at all. I totally understand about the auto experience and that's no problem you can learn as you go.the only reason I have learned so much about motors is I grew up without a lot of money and had to figure out how to fix things that broke,so I could get around and go to work.lol! And also when I was Younger I thought any time I stopped was a chance to stomp it to the floor and go!lol! Anyway it's not that unusual for a vehicle with a carburated set up to have a rich smelling exhaust,especially if you don't have cats on exhaust.so first things first lets do adjustments to the timing.you truly need a timing light to do it properly and can probly get one from a local auto parts store for $25-$35 bucks and if that's not a option they probly have one you can borrow with a deposit that is refundable after you return it.so you hook it to your battery and number 1 spark plug wire.so you need to loosen the bolt- nut that holds your distributer down.don't back out to far ,just enough to be able to turn distributer slightly.you want to keep it tight enough that it want turn buy its self with motor running.so it feels stiff when you turn it.so start motor and use thick gloves or a rag on top of distributer to help insulate you from getting ZAPPED.lol!hurts but usually don't happen if you use gloves or rag.lol! .so then point Your timing light at the timing pointer near the crank shaft pulley.it should have numbers on it and the crank pulley should have a groove in it that you can see when you press trigger.so start your motor and let idle at this point,be sure timing light wires are clear of fan and belts,exc...make a note of which number the timing light reviles timing is set at and slowly turn the distributer while looking at timing light so that the number is increased. Note:engine idle should increase.also motor needs to be warmed up and choke or fast idle from car being cold should be off at time of setting timing.so increase timing by 2-3 timing marks at a time and each time the bolt should be tightened and car should be driven.listen out for pinging and valve train noise under hard acceleration. If you here this back timing off until it go's away.

2007 GT//CS

So slowly increase timing until you feel or here adverse affects.so this should help some with power issues.also if you absolutely can't get your hands on a timing light you can do by ear by loosing bolt and advancing timing in small increments while driving between each adjustments. Just remember to tighten down bolt between test driving.it always helps to manually rev the motor with the throttle linkage by hand to help guage how motor is doing with adjustments.eveory motor has a sweet spot with timing and you can train your ear to here this with experience.also you may have to keep a eye temperature if you have a warm natured motor and possibly change to a cooler thermostat if it runs warm.usually not a issue though.hope this will help and let ma know if this helps or you have any questions. Good luck and this is something good to learn on any older vehicle.

2007 GT//CS

Also if you turn the distributer the wrong way it will cause ruffer idle and rpms to slow and that's called retarding timing.usually not the way to go unless somebody has skrewed up timing already.so turn distributer the other direction to advance timing like we're wanting to do.its a fairly simple process if you have patients. ! Also please post what initial timing was set at and results.

no_powder_2

They used a timing light on it. All I know is it's 10 degrees advanced is where they set it. I'm wondering have a 43 year old torque converter that's never been touched or rear differential fluid that's never been changed could cause some of not all the issues

2007 GT//CS

Torque converter possibly but they usually just break .and as far as axle fluid it wouldn't affect horse power at all.wouldnt hurt to change it though.the engine and something to do with that is more than likely the problem.check fule,spark and valve train.also if they didn't degree the cam in the timing could still be off.i would check it out.even though they said it was advanced it could use more possibly.its one of the easiest ways to have poor performance.also check fule systems and carburetor adjustments.i have Hurd of engine builders-mechanics skrewing up the way new motors run a bunch of times.not saying they did bit the slightest thing can change so much.so stick to the basics like the,valve train,timing,fule,spark