Should I get this 1967 Mercury Cougar w/ a 289 bored out to 299 and the original C4

[djay]

Should I get this 1967 Mercury Cougar w/ a 289 bored out to 299 and the original C4 for $3500? "Engine - Rebuilt 289, bored .0040" over. Actual displacement is 299ci. Engine has about 10k miles on it, mostly freeway. Induction - Has new AFR 165cc aluminum heads with full roller rockers. Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap, Erson cam 220 degrees @ .0050". $2000 has gone into the valvetrain. Exhaust - Completely redone, Hedman headers, 40 series Flowmasters, chrome tips Ignition - Mallory Unilite distributor, MSD blaster SS coil, MSD 6A box Trans - original C4 with B&M shift kit, Hughes converter with 2500 stall. Brakes - Front 4-piston calibers were rebuilt in 2001. Stock rear drums. Also has new leaf springs w/poly bushings. The sequential turn signal lights work, and so do the flip up light covers. Interior needs work, as well as minor damage to the passenger door. Comes with remaining poly bushings, door felts, blower motor, and other replacement parts I've not had time to install. " These are the only pics posted... so aside from the interior work is this a good base to start on?

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[fast65]

pics?

[rmodel65]

depends on if its solid. you need to check the floor pans the cowl(area in front of the windsheild pour some water down the cowl see if it wets the floors) check the quarters etc



sounds reasonable if its solid

[rmodel65]

Originally Posted by fast65

pics?

+1 or GTFO

[fast65]

Like rmodel said, make sure it's solid. If it's solid and drives good, then go for it.

[djay]

Yea, I've never bought a classic car this old (just my 93 wrangler te-he) so I wouldn't know what to look for as far as rust / bondo / body etc etc so i'm trying to bring somebody who knows.

[rmodel65]

• Engine from both sides (with the air cleaner off preferably) as well as from underneath. You're looking for general condition as well as evidence of leaks, aftermarket parts and original parts that are critical to a particular year or option.
• VIN and data plates. These are in multiple locations so get shots of all so you can verify the numbers all match.
• Suspension and undercarriage. Look for leaks and rust.
• Typical rust spots; inside fender wells, shock towers, rear quarter panels below the trunk, bottom of doors, bottom rear of front fenders, underside of floor pans.
• Trunk and inner rear quarter panels. This is a good place to find evidence of a wreck.
• Interior. The typical one shot isn't enough here. Get photos of both front seats and rear, dash, odometer reading, steering wheel, pedals, carpet, etc.
• Body. You're looking for more than overall shots. You want photos sighting down each side of the car to show you waves or dents. Same with the hood, top and trunk lid. You don't want shots looking down on these items. You want them looking across so you can study the reflections for any body problems or sign of past accidents.
• Unique items to that year or style. Get detailed photos of any part that makes that particular car unique. If it's a Boss 302 get shots of the flared fenders, shock tower supports, exhaust manifolds, etc.
• Paperwork. Ask for photos of any supporting paperwork, like original owners manual, build sheet, receipts, Marti report, etc.
• Extra Parts? - If you're one of those brave souls who buying one of those project Mustangs for sale, then be sure to get all the parts that the seller may have taken off during the disassembly process.

[fast65]

Well make sure to thoroughly check the floor pans for rust and I imagine the cowls on Cougars rust like the cowls on Mustangs do, so pour some water down the cowl and check to see if any of it makes it inside. Also, go over the body with a magnet to check for any bondo, if the magnet doesn't stick, then there's bondo.

Looks like rmodel's list pretty much got it all covered.

[rmodel65]

R-U-S-T is definitely a four letter word when looking at classic Mustangs for sale. It's a cancer that affects almost every vintage car to some extent, is very expensive to fix and sometimes hard to spot. Underestimating the cost and amount of rust is a common newbie mistake, but also can catch seasoned enthusiasts. It can turn a cheap Mustang project car into a money pit quicker then you can whip out your checkbook. It's almost always to your advantage to opt for the more expensive car without rust then the bargain car in need of severe rust repair. Many elements factor into how rusty a car is. What part of the country is it in? Has it been driven in the snow where they salt the roads? Has it been garage kept or left to soak out in the driveway? In addition to these generic factors vintage Mustangs have their own specific problem areas for rust.

• Cowl Vents - The cowl is the vented area just behind the hood at the base of the windshield. The design allows for fresh air intake for the heater, but also allows water and leaves to collect and just sit. Check the carpet near the firewall for any moisture or a mildew smell. Take a garden hose and run water down the windshield so it goes into the cowl openings. Then poke your head under the firewall from the inside and look for any leaks. If this area is rusted it can be very expensive to fix properly. Everything under the dash needs to be removed, the rusted metal cut out and new patch panels welded in and sealed up. If the used Mustang you're looking at has a cowl leak, factor into the price some professional help to be required to fix it properly.
• Floor Boards - If you can, pull the carpet up. Cowl leaks or heater core leaks can cause small amounts of moisture to soak into the carpet where it sits and attacks the floor boards. Also check the floor pans from underneath the car. Heavy undercoating can make rust hard to spot, but tap on them and listen for solid metal. Check for repair work while you're under there. A proper floor board repair will be welded in, not screwed or riveted, which is really just a quick fix by the previous owner.
• Front Fenders - The lower rear corner of the front fenders is another typical rust problem area. Dirt and snow gets thrown up there constantly and rust finds a good home.
• Rear Quarters - The rear quarter panels are supposed to have drain holes so that any water getting in through a bad trunk seal will work it's way out. Unfortunately over the years these drains get plugged up and this area can get filled with dirt, leaves and moisture. To inspect pull the trunk mat our and lift the floor extenders (if they're even still there) Use a flashlight to peer into the bottom of each quarter panel. Heavy rust will be obvious, but also look carefully for bubbles in the paint. Thick undercoating can sometimes make this hard.
• Wheel Wells - The curve of the wheel wells creates a lip on the inside that holds mud and snow. Bubbles in the paint are a sure sign, but also use a mirror or take off the tires to see back behind on top of the lip.
• Door Bottoms - Like the rear quarters, the doors have factory drain holes at the bottom that can get plugged. Once the door window weather stripping gets old and cracks rain can easily get inside the door skin. Again, look for bubbles in the paint on the exterior. Also lay on your back on the ground under the open door to look at the seam where the skin is crimped on to the door shell. Any rust at the seam is sure to mean much more rust hiding inside.
• Shock Towers - Pop the hood and check the inner fenders near where the shocks mount. This area is sometimes rusted all the way through even though the area around is perfectly good sheet metal.
• Battery - While you're inspecting the engine bay check the area around the battery. Years of battery acid can eat off the paint and make this area very susceptible to rust.

Battery tray rust

Inner fender rust at

[djay]

Thanks, I'm hoping to sell the jeep today and maybe go check that out sometime soon.