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I've always wanted a '70 Boss, that won't happen. So next best option is a '69 or '70 Mach 1. Very attainable, but probably going to be a 351 powered car in decent shape (right around that 20K area)
I got to thinking though, I could get a NICER '70 Fastback (non Mach) for less with the same motor. (plus, the rockers on the '70 Machs are kind of ugly)
I'd be spending LESS money, and I won't feel bad for modding it like I would a Mach1.
the hard part is gonna be finding a nice one for 20k. If you're looking for a real nice all original car 20k might be tough to find, but something not matching numbers you might be able to find something nice
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-Ryan-
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Originally Posted by ImpOnFire
i suck dick for coke. good business, you should try it.
Play MW2 on Xbox360?
Add the Gamertag MFMW2 to play with other MFers
I don't care if it's all original, I just want something that looks decent, big loud and fast. I've been looking for something with a big block on ebay, but nothing stands out so far. Speaking of big blocks, whats the actual difference of a small block and a big block, I used to think it was the displacement but I've seen 427 big blocks and small blocks, so I'm a bit confused right now?
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Procharged 10psi and lots of other goodies.
Last edited by slvrstang2007; 09-27-2009 at 06:29 PM.
it is mainly the difference in the actual size of the block, not so much displacement. Ford has the 351windsor which is a small block, and also the 351 cleveland which is a big block. if you look at the valve covers and they are long and skinny then its a small block, and if they are more irregular shaped then it is a big block.
edit: we just sold a 65 coupe that was restored not too long ago. it was a nice car, not concourse resto or anything but pretty nice and we got rid of it for like $12500. im sure you can find a decent restomod for around that price. classic mustangs dont bring in that much money.
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1994 Mustang GT, just a few minor appearance mods, engine mostly stock (for now)
Last edited by ryan1994mustang; 09-27-2009 at 06:53 PM.
As others have said, try to get something already finished. Unless you have some ultra-rare care you are restoring, you will not get your money back.
FWIW there are a TON of super-nice 60's muscle/pony cars for sale around Sacramento right now. Lots of people are getting rid of their toys trying to stay afloat.
And all classics are money pits. Things break and go wrong all the time. Thats just part of the game. I will say that a non original modified vehicle will cost you less and you will probably enjoy it more unless you are looking for an investment or an original show car. A bad ass motor swapped/tranny swapped car will often go for less than an all original, but they can be so much more fun to drive.
im going to have to disagree with the statement about all classics are money pits.
i bought my '65 for 10k and out of all the things ive replaced, the only things i needed to were the plugs, rotor, points, condensor, alt.
if you have a classic and do it right or find one that was taken care of and not beat they are no more of a money pit then a new car.
right now its a buyers market for classics as well. when times get tough, toys are the first thing to go. living up here in chicago i can go on craigslist and find all sorts of classics for sale from project cars to fully restored to originals.
there was a '68 firebird on there for $10k that was in damn good condition, paint & int. were excellent. the engine area and underside just needed to be detailed.
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