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Castrol Syntec 10w30 with either a fram extended guard or wix filter, whichever they have in stock
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2000 GT
Electric Green
5 Speed
BBK CAI
O/R X
Flowmaster 40 Series
Crappy stereo setup
Cobra "R" front end (good for 50+ hp)
No money left in my pocket
AND A FOR SALE SIGN IN THE WINDOW (need a house more than I need 3 cars)
The Kansas Highway Patrol sued fram because of around 50 engine failures that warranty would not cover
me personally i use WIX filters with Shaeffer 5w-40 synthetic, we use shaeffer oil in all of our fleet cars. http://www.schaefferoil.com/
I will chime in with a bit more substance than a few others so far.
Fram has got to be the cheapest filter out there. There are a few website people have put up showing cutaways of a bunch of different brands. A google search will find them.
Oil specs. Thats a tough one. Finding out REAL information about oil is harder than a needle in a haystack. I'm referring to Noack volatility tests, pour points, viscosity index, viscosity shear stability, foam control, oxidation stability, etc. Not the "fluff" printed on the back of bottles. The API rating doesnt mean a damn thing when it comes to "exceeding the minimum standards". Minimum standards is only "average". Only ONE company puts information stats out for all to see. Amsoil. Which begs the question, why just them? Does everyone else have something to hide, or just not want the buying public to know specific details about their products? Granted most people dont care about those specifics. But there is a group of people (car guys like us) that would like to know what makes oils different/better. Amsoil has been having a laboratory do this very kind of testing. I just wish they started with car oils instead of gear lubes and motorcycle oils. I guess they felt the money spent would lead to a higher percentage increase in sales to those specialty markets. They have definetly opened some eyes in the motorcycle market. Harley owners in particular. Harley oil is junk compared to Amsoil, and in most cases cheaper, depending on what each Harley dealer charges.
Going all out to find the BEST oil to use may be overkill, because lets face it, regular oil changes and decent filters will keep a car going a loong time. But there is something to be said for going the extra mile for the good stuff when you have seen the inside of an engine at 100000mi using Amsoil vs regular stuff.
I service the Sheriff department vehicles at my shop, and have never heard of them complaining about engine failures due to filters. They did play with the change interval and found that at 6k, they were getting engine failures. They have been sticking with 5k intervals for quite some time now (no, I dont use Fram at my shop, either. Valvoline filters are actually very good). I have 2 Kansas troopers that come here as well, and never heard anything from those guys either. Those cars spend alot of time idling on top of running the 5k between oil changes, so they definetly qualify as severe use.
If you are looking for actual information on oil then become a member of bobistheoilguy or just go to bobistheoilguy.com/forums it is full of actual information and lab tests on oil, additives, coolant, and other good factual lab data. Gives pretty much all the info you could need. German Castrol pretty much takes the cake on every test they do. Amsoil does great as well. I cant believe i dont hear of anyone on here using german castrol. anyone here using it?
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02 GT Saleen supercharged, 30lb injectors, MAC prochamber, flows, Triax, lowered, subframes, 3.73's girdle, rear control arms
317rwhp 335rwtq on crappy lean saleen tune
Now Sniper tuned soon to be dynoed
I use Mobil 1 full syn 10w30. I have 83K on it, mostly highway. My cap and owner's manual says 5w20, but I'm good with 10w30.
Since you have 83K i'm sure its fine, but if your manual and cap say use 5w20 then you should use at least that, even a 0w20 would be better if you could find it. A 10w30 is thicker at start-up than a 5w20 which is even thicker than a 0w. That means at start up your engine is getting lubricated even worse with the 10w than the 5w, and the most wear your engine sees is at start-up.
At room temperature your 10w is approx. 100 cS whereas the 0w is approx. 40 cS. The 5w is somewhere inbetween those two. At operating temp your engine needs a viscosity of approx. 10 cS. So obviously you would be better off with the 5w or 0w because at start-up you would be closer to the operating viscosity than the 10w. Though I have never really heard of anyone's engine exploding or anything from having the wrong viscosity oil it would be better for the engine to have the recommended viscosity. And you would minimize start-up wear by going with a 0w or at least the recommended 5w.
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02 GT Saleen supercharged, 30lb injectors, MAC prochamber, flows, Triax, lowered, subframes, 3.73's girdle, rear control arms
317rwhp 335rwtq on crappy lean saleen tune
Now Sniper tuned soon to be dynoed
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(need a house more than I need 3 cars)
