ShadyNinja

there is NO Excuse for that.

Slug Catcher

The only thing that caused that was a lack of oil changes.

When you check on an engine that is making a funny noise and you find no oil on the dip stick, That says volumes about whats wrong with the engine and the owner.


Im guessing her engine clacking wasnt what tipped her off, It was probably the oil light/alarm going off.



But in all honesty, you shouldnt need an oil additive.

I used to fall for that crap too back when I was 16-17.

If you change your oil on a regular basis, you will never need an additive. Most Additives are some "Snake oil" maricle cure for suckers that dont want to spend any money to repair leaking gaskets or for people gullible enough to beleive " one pint of this will give you 10% more power and make your car last 50,000 miles longer."

You never see "truck drivers/cab drivers/train engineers/bus drivers" dumping that kind of junk into their crank cases.


I Drive a truck and have never used an oil additive. The last truck I had went 800,000 miles with no internal engine problems. The truck before that went 1,160,000 miles. That truck had an warranty engine rebuild at 75,000 miles "valve let go" then went over 1 million miles with out an internal engine problem. The truck before that went 1,400,000 miles before I put a rod through the block. In fact now that I think about it, The only car engine I put additives in did blow. In all fairness though, I beleive it had more to due with the missing oil pan then the additive.

As long as you change your oil like your suppose to, any oil additive is just throwing money out the window.

Unleashedbeast

That will NEVER happen.

AMSOIL says it in BOLD print.

NEVER MIX ANY ADDITIVE WITH AMSOIL!

If you need an additive to make an oil better, you are using the WRONG engine lubricant.

No need to do that. AMSOIL has formulas for those who drive older cars with older flat tappet designed engines.

AMSOIL 10W-40

AMSOIL 20W-50

I believe in the 20W-50 so much, I use it in my Shelby....and GAINED efficiency by doing so. This stuff out performs any 5W-50 oil I've been able to get my hands on. The funny thing is, the cold pour of the 20W-50 AMSOIL is as good as the inferior group III base stock 5W-50 lubes on the market (with the exception of Red Line - group IV base stock). Besides, who needs cold performance properties when you live in Florida? I sure don't, not even in the coldest months of the year. It's rare we ever see temps under 30 degrees on average.

The 5W-50 lubes (except Red Line) are all API SM certified, and that means they have less than 900 ppm of zinc and phosphorous (ZDDP). Not very healthy for flat tappet engines, and borderline healthy for current vehicles made today (IMO). You can thank a tree hugger for insuring that your engine is wore OUT @ 100-150K miles due to the decrease of ZDDP.

NEVER NEVER NEVER use a race oil for a daily driven street car. Race oil doesn't have nearly as much additive (TBN) to resist fuel dilution and contamination. It's meant to be beat up hard, protect the motor with high levels of ZDDP, and be changed after the race...or after two to three races max. It will not protect you for those 3K-5K oil change intervals that many people are brainwashed to do. It also doesn't have the ability to protect an engine during storage months if it was used previously.

Here is the rule of thumb.

If you trailer your car to the track, use race oil.

If you drive to the track, NEVER use race oil.

Again, if you need high levels of ZDDP for your car...see the links I posted above.

Last, but not least.....

Someone asked about Royal Purple oil filters. They are nothing more than a rebadged K&N/Mobil filter. You are buying the same thing and paying more for it. If you want a filter that is worth the money, and you want proven patented nano fiber synthetic technology, you need AMSOIL EaO oil filters. I never put anything else on any of the cars I own, or my families cars for that matter.

AMSOIL Ea0 filters

The EaO11 filter fits the 2V, 3V, and 4V Ford modulars.

JIM5.0

Diesel engines will last that long. Just the diesel fuel itself serves to lube the cylinder walls when it enters the cylinder prior to combustion. Diesel engines are so well lubed just by the nature of the fuel itself that they are not even fully broken in until 75K-100K miles.

Gasolines which are much much more volatile than diesel has just about nil in lubricating properties when it enters the cylinder prior to combustion. That is why gasoline engines are so short lived. Gas engines thus require a more frequent oil change interval

Slug Catcher

I think your missing the point I was trying to make.


Oil additives dont have any real value. Thats why their use isnt very wide spread in the buisness industry......Gas or Diesel powered.


But I dont want to argue the point, read for your self......


http://www.skepdic.com/slick50.html

If your still not convinced.....

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i..._Negative.html


That should pretty much tell you all you need to know.

DreamerGT

Which is way I add marvel mystery oil at my gas