What type of oil to use on 99' Cobra
#11
Sigh... someone in the 4.6 gen section... Hoss maybe? Did an experiment in a tech school and it pretty much showed, not even dino oils they tested (and they tested a large varity) began to break down untill 4000+ miles, some synthetics went 6, and 7k+ miles without breakdown. They concluded there is no other benefits to a synthetic otherwise so why waste the money? Or something along those lines...
#14
Studies have shown there is NO advantage to synthetics besides longevity..... he's not hurting his car and you're a fool if you think he is by using conventional oil.
#15
Did you do the study on it? Did you test out the 2? I'm just messin with ya man, I'm just in one of them moods today lol, that's why I said "uhh whaa";
#16
I run mobil 1 5w30 synthetic in my 100k mile 99 cobra. ONLY reason I use synthetic is I get into positions at time where I cannot change it right at 3k miles, sometimes not until 5k and I like the peace of mind
#17
Good info. I just picked up an 01 Cobra with 128K miles and wasn't sure which to use. I was told to use something with a thicker weight because of the miles on the engine. I use Mobil 1 5w-30 in my TL so this works out perfect. I'm locate in GA so the weather is "to cold."
#18
Well I thought I'd post after reading some comments, for a background I use over the counter synthetics. As far as the DINO vs SYN goes, I had an 87 ranger 14 inches of lift, 40inch tires powered by a 347 SBF. Main bearings were getting weak and after about 10 minutes and the engine warmed up Oil pressure would drop from 40psi to 10psi with a 20w50 dino oil(mechanical gauge) and have a slight knock to it. I decided to switch to a 20w50 synthetic and immediatly noticed a difference, after warming up the oil pressure would not drop below 20psi regardless of run time and the engine would not knock. I beleive this was due to the fact the synthetic oil doesnt thin out with heat like the dino oil does which did make a difference. For some background the two oils in were conventional valvoline 20w50 and valvoline synpower 20w50. Before anyone ask why I was running 20w50, I put a 20w30 in it and the OP was so low and it knocked like a bastard, 20psi on startup is NOT good and a SBF needs atleast 8psi to survive which it would not have gotten with the 10-30
Last edited by uberstang1; 01-18-2011 at 06:11 AM.
#19
Sigh... someone in the 4.6 gen section... Hoss maybe? Did an experiment in a tech school and it pretty much showed, not even dino oils they tested (and they tested a large varity) began to break down untill 4000+ miles, some synthetics went 6, and 7k+ miles without breakdown. They concluded there is no other benefits to a synthetic otherwise so why waste the money? Or something along those lines...
Uberstang has shown you another aspect I am talking about, HT/HS (High Temp / High Shear). 100% Synthetics are superior here too. I mean real synthetics like Royal Purple, Red Line, and Amsoil, not the group III hydrocracked "refined petroleum" you mostly see at the parts store or Wal Mart.
Conclusion: deciding that a true synthetic isn't worth the cost considering shearing alone is a fools test with failed assumptions.
Last edited by Unleashedbeast; 01-18-2011 at 07:01 AM.