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Switching Oil and Catch Can

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Old 02-23-2011, 04:44 AM
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Burrosito
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Default Switching Oil and Catch Can

I totally had a post about this stuff in the other section - didn't know this subforum existed. :/

I have a 2006 V8 with about 55,xxx on the dial. She's completely stock. I do all my oil changes myself about every 5k miles. I use Motorcraft 5w-20 along with the Motorcraft filter.

As of lately, I've noticed that I've been burning excess oil. After about 3k miles of my last service, I had to top off the oil a full quart. I know this isn't right. But she's not leaking (at least not an obvious leak). There are no leaks on my driveway at home, and at work I park in the same spot every day and there are no leaks there. Also, she doesn't blow any smoke out of the exhaust - not during start up or while driving. Nor does it smell like she's smoking. My next oil change is coming up shortly, so I will be under her checking to see if there is any oil residue somewhere abouts the engine compartment or bottom frame. I was told I should replace the PCV Valve, but that would require a whole new valve cover :/

I was also thinking about switching up the oil - perhaps to a 5w-30 or 0w-30. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as far as which would be best for me since I run a completely stock car. Along with which filter I should perhaps switch to.

Also, would it be beneficial to me to run a catch can also? Again, I'm stock. Not looking for any performance gains because I know I'm not going to get any. But maybe to help with any build up or excess burning/sludge.

And while I'm here, maybe a couple other questions can be answered - I'm going to change my spark plugs. I bought this car used at 15k miles, so I'm assuming the spark plugs are still stock. -Any recommendations on which plugs I should get? I have the removal tool on hand and have used it on a Titan 5.4L F-150

And one more - would there be any benefit to my motor if I switched to 89 or 91 gas? I've been using 87 since I've got it. Again, I'm completely stock and I'm just looking to start taking better care of my motor.

Thanks guys for any advice.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:11 PM
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Unleashedbeast
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Let's begin with oil choice...and your consumption issues. More than likely you are loosing the oil in your PCV system. A catch can will benefit you even if your car is stock. It will catch the oil in the can instead of injecting it back into the intake manifold. This problem is very common. When it comes to oil weight/grade, I always suggest a robust 5W-30 in the 4.6L modular instead of Ford's recommended 5W-20. Ford only suggests this fluid for economy reasons and CAFE laws. Read the thread I have posted below to learn more about this.

CAFE laws - efficiency thread

You live in Orlando, so you don't actually require a 0W-30, but it doesn't hurt to use it. I did, and love how it performed in my 2008 GT. Here are two excellent choices for your Mustang.

Amsoil 0W-30

Amsoil 5W-30

When it comes to spark plugs, I forget what brand and model they are, but there are plugs that are manufactured as one piece....not two pieces crimped together as the OEM plugs are. You will have to search what others have used in their cars with the plugs that easily break when removing them. You already know the nightmare you face with changing your plugs. Honestly, before I would change them...I would do a good top engine cleaning using Seafoam. Another member commented how none of his plugs broke after breaking up the carbon deposits within the cylinders first.

Octane:

Unless your engine is tuned to use 89,91, or 93 you are wasting your money on it. The OEM tune is optimized for 87 octane, keep using it until you get an aftermarket tune that requires higher octane.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:47 AM
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Burrosito
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Beast, thank you greatly for the information provided. This is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate it.


Ah, one more question - I will be switching to Amsoil's 5w-30, should I replace my filter also, or just stick with the Motorcraft one I've been using all these years?
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:43 PM
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If I was burning oil like that, I dont think I would go out and spend $60 on oil. I would run valvoline maxlife or shell rotella 5w-30 for a few changes, and install a catch can, and just keep an on things. When you figure your oil burning issues then you run what ever oil you want.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Burrosito
Ah, one more question - I will be switching to Amsoil's 5w-30, should I replace my filter also, or just stick with the Motorcraft one I've been using all these years?
I would upgrade to an Amsoil EAO filter. The Ford filter is only good up to ~ 7,500 miles at best, and can't filter as small of particles as the nano fiber media Amsoil filter.

Amsoil EAO11

and if you are going to invest in Amsoil, please do not pay retail for it. Become a preferred customer.

Amsoil preferred customers

all you have to do is add either the 6 month or one year membership to your cart before check out. I suggest one year. Then you can buy an unlimited supply of Amsoil at dealer cost and save 25-30% on everything.

Originally Posted by DreamerGT
If I was burning oil like that, I dont think I would go out and spend $60 on oil. I would run valvoline maxlife or shell rotella 5w-30 for a few changes, and install a catch can, and just keep an on things. When you figure your oil burning issues then you run what ever oil you want.
I agree with you Dreamer, it's a gamble, but since he will be running a more viscous fluid with lower NOACK volatility (burn off/evaporation) his consumption will decrease. Currently, he is using a cheaper blended 5W-20. I'm glad he chose Amsoil 5W-30 versus their 0W-30, as their 5W-30 has even lower NOACK volatility than the 0W-30.

NOACK Volatility percentages of burn off

MC 5W-20 (10-12%)
Amsoil 0W-30 (8%)
Amsoil 5W-30 (6%)

Last edited by Unleashedbeast; 02-24-2011 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:58 PM
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Thanks again for the advice!
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:20 PM
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JIM5.0
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The new 5.0L Coyote in the '11 GT, and .12 GT & Boss all have piston oil squirters.
What are the maximum and minimum oil weights that can be used in engines equipped with oil squirters?
Or does it make absolutely no difference at all?
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:55 PM
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Beast to the rescue. As far as oil goes take his word as gospel. Hey beast. What's your take on moly
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JIM5.0
The new 5.0L Coyote in the '11 GT, and .12 GT & Boss all have piston oil squirters.
What are the maximum and minimum oil weights that can be used in engines equipped with oil squirters?
Or does it make absolutely no difference at all?
Makes no difference really. You still want a lubricant that has acceptable HT/HS *high temp/high shear* capability. I think what gets me is those who take Fords advice and use 5W-20, then they add a supercharger....and still use 5W-20, then they road race with the car (in 90* temps)...and still use 5W-20. Yeah, it makes me cringe!

Originally Posted by everett
Beast to the rescue. As far as oil goes take his word as gospel. Hey beast. What's your take on moly
That's a debatable topic, as Royal Purple uses it frequently. Years ago, before moly technology improved, oil formulators found it impossible to make moly not contaminate/clog engine oil passages, and to keep it suspended in the oils base stock.

Today, with current technologies, that's not the case.

Engineers and scientists have tried for years to use moly in motor oils but they had been unsuccessful because they could not find a way to keepmoly in suspension. Once moly was put into suspension it would gradually settle out. It was easy to see it come out of suspension because a black sludge would collect on the bottom of the oil containers. In engines it would settle to the bottom of the crankcase or clog oil pathways and filters.

Engineers have overcome these obstacles. They have developed a process that keeps moly in suspension and isn't filtered out. Since that time the product has undergone extensive independent testing in labs and in the field for many years to insure that the product stands up to the rigorous needs of today's engines. With the plating action of moly reducing friction which reduces heat, this helps keep rings free from carbon buildup, prevents blow-by, decreases emission, and extends oil life.
Amsoil isn't big on moly.

Last edited by Unleashedbeast; 02-26-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:04 PM
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I read that in the paperwork I got from them. They actually beat on rp for having it in their oil. The guys at bitog seem to love the stuff from Germany. I bought all that napa had and I am gonna try half a bottle in the 5.3. It's super high mileage and might see a gain. I won't put it in my mustang til the winter trial on the chev is done. Thanks Troy. I appreciate your sharing of knowledge
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