Oil and Oil Related TopicsA place to post your oil related questions and comments
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The biggest difference in synthetic oil and conventional oil. Imagine a empty closed room, filled with different size *****, from marbles to those big huge exercising ***** that people film throwing and kicking into other peoples faces. Each of these ***** you are imagining represents the size of a molecule in your oil. Conventional oil has different size ***** (molecules) big and small. Each time your engine is operating these big ones chew up your engine and the small ones squeeze by. In synthetic oil all the ***** (molecules) are the same size, and they are small, comparable to the baseballs in the room when put up against the big exercise *****.
As to why many people have leaks when using synthetic oil is because they used to use conventional oil and went to synthetic. So now the path ways the bigger ***** (molecules) left behind from using the conventional oil, the smaller ***** (molecules) from the synthetic oil just walk right though the bigger path. Basically the seal is too worn for the use of synthetic oil so it burns and leaks.
In Automotive we only use Grades 3, 4 and 5.
Grade 3 is your basic conventional (dino juice) oil. Ex. Pennzoil, Quaker State, Wal-Mart (lol?) Unless the bottle says synthetic.
Grade 4 is kind of synthetic oil however it is not truly synthetic. Grade 4 oil is conventional oil that is derived of dino juice and cleaned extremely well and sent through a filtering process which sorts the molecules into the same size. (think of mixed nuts being sorted. Cashews and walnuts are different in shape, they just put them together) Moble 1 is a Grade 4 oil, look on the back of the bottle and it says GL-4. Yet on the front it says fully synthetic, which is a LIE! It is technically a highly refined synthetic blend.
Grade 5 is 100% PURE Synthetic Oil. Everything that goes into making the oil, the additives, EVERYTHING is 100% Pure synthetic. It does not go through a filter to break down bigger molecules, everything is already formulated form the ground up to be the same size. This is the best out there.
I only know of 3 companies that make Grade 5 (GL-5) Oil. They are Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline.
Granted there is much more information that goes into this but this should give you a general understanding of the types of oils there are.
If you have any questions or if something is not stated clearly let me know. Il will answer/correct it.
By the way... I am a Lexus Certified Diagnostic Tech (The shops brain) for over 6 years. I have to know this stuff!
all the info was educational,but the one topic i very seldom see is what about the oil in the 5speed tranny,and rear end.should they be changed?or just topped off .at 45,000mi.? and what kind of oil should be used? thanks for your answers.
Sure you can switch, I've used Castrol Edge & Royal Purple. The purple I still use in
my 98 Mercury Villager GS van. I go 6,000 miles and change. My new 3.7 will get the
Motorcraft because I get free oil changes for life at my Dealer. Oop's, I went to NAPA
parts and got a GF-5 rated "Full Synthetic" NAPA oil made by Valvoline so say's the
counter man. Used a NAPA "Gold" made by Wix filter.
2009 V6 Candy Apple Red ,PP , Gold Stripe, Pony Stripe
2012 V6 Candy Red Metallic, AP,Pony stripe, Black Stripe
Boss 302 strut tower brace,BMR uca, 3.7 badges,J&M
adj. panhard bar,BMR lca's, Whiteline brackets,Stack Racing rear springs,18x9" Razor rims/255/40/18'sGT Radials/ Tuned by Motorvationefi
2014 DIB 3.7Cyclone, Airaid tube, Yokohama S-drive 275/40/18 on Shelby razors/Boss tower brace/BMR lca's/aFe Dry-S inverted Drop-in/
Last edited by audioAl; 03-01-2013 at 05:21 AM.
Reason: Change of plans
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