View Poll Results: Aluminized Steel vs. 409 Stainless Steel
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There all the same, it doesnt matter. buy the cheapest
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Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 4. You may not vote on this poll
Aluminized Steel vs. 304/409 Stainless Steel
#1
Aluminized Steel vs. 304/409 Stainless Steel
I'm going to set up an appointment this weekend to get my true duels set up and was curious as to which material you all think is best. Below is a basic breakdown of the 3 options the shop i'm going to offers. http://www.mandrelbend.com/default.asp
Thanks!
Thanks!
Aluminized Steel vs. 409 Stainless Steel
Both aluminized steel and 409 stainless steel are excellent products for automotive exhaust applications. Both offer excellent heat and corrosion resistance and both can be easily welded.
Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated with an aluminum-silicon alloy containing between 5 and 11% silicon to promote better adherence. It offers more corrosion resistance than galvanized steel and is 20 times more heat resistant than cold-rolled steel and 5 times more heat resistant than galvanized steel.
Used widely in original equipment and aftermarket exhaust systems, aluminized steel is used by most muffler shops. It is a very long-life product and will generally outlast mufflers by years. It is very workable and accepts bends without stressing. The principal advantage of aluminized steel is its lower cost.
409 is a titanium stabilized ferritic stainless steel which means that it is a steel alloy containing chromium. It contains less nickel and more carbon than 304 stainless steel. Ferritics are best suited for high temperature applications that require corrosion resistance and high strength. The principal use of 409 stainless steel is automotive exhaust systems and most catalytic converter shells are made of 409.
More workable and stable than 304, 409 will accept bending and heat cycling better than 304. It resists both atmospheric and exhaust gas corrosion. It is magnetic due to its higher carbon content. Through chemical reaction, it oxidizes to a slight brownish hue which aids in corrosion resistance. While it does not polish well, it offers the advantages of higher strength, lower cost and longer life due to its heat handling qualities.
Both aluminized steel and 409 stainless steel are excellent products for automotive exhaust applications. Both offer excellent heat and corrosion resistance and both can be easily welded.
Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated with an aluminum-silicon alloy containing between 5 and 11% silicon to promote better adherence. It offers more corrosion resistance than galvanized steel and is 20 times more heat resistant than cold-rolled steel and 5 times more heat resistant than galvanized steel.
Used widely in original equipment and aftermarket exhaust systems, aluminized steel is used by most muffler shops. It is a very long-life product and will generally outlast mufflers by years. It is very workable and accepts bends without stressing. The principal advantage of aluminized steel is its lower cost.
409 is a titanium stabilized ferritic stainless steel which means that it is a steel alloy containing chromium. It contains less nickel and more carbon than 304 stainless steel. Ferritics are best suited for high temperature applications that require corrosion resistance and high strength. The principal use of 409 stainless steel is automotive exhaust systems and most catalytic converter shells are made of 409.
More workable and stable than 304, 409 will accept bending and heat cycling better than 304. It resists both atmospheric and exhaust gas corrosion. It is magnetic due to its higher carbon content. Through chemical reaction, it oxidizes to a slight brownish hue which aids in corrosion resistance. While it does not polish well, it offers the advantages of higher strength, lower cost and longer life due to its heat handling qualities.
#2
Personally I would go with aluminized primarily because of cost & there's not much of an added benefit. I always used aluminized for most of the pumbing I do from headers back or turbo back. I wouldn't use it on headers though.
Last edited by FoxGT; 09-19-2009 at 12:49 AM.
#3
I have always had better luck with aluminized pipe. 304 and 409 seem to crack easily if there is any weight or tension put on it while it is very hot. Aluminized is less durable to heat and corrosion than 304/409 but has better strength (at lower temps) and costs less. I would be willing to bet that stainless will crack before aluminized has any structural rust. Obviously you wouldn't use aluminized on a header or where there is alot of salt on the road.
Last edited by FrankenStangNPD; 09-18-2009 at 12:54 AM.
#4
Seriously I hope that didn't come off the wrong way.
Last edited by FrankenStangNPD; 09-18-2009 at 12:51 AM.
#5
I have always had better luck with aluminized pipe. 304 and 409 seem to crack easily if there is any weight or tension put on it while it is very hot. Aluminized is less durable to heat and corrosion than 304/409 but has better strength (at lower temps) and costs less. I would be willing to bet that stainless will crack before aluminized has any structural rust. Obviously you wouldn't use aluminized on a header or where there is alot of salt on the road.
#7
I plan on swapping the 5.0 out of my gt into my notch & putting the 351w into the gt. If I do that I will end up putting a roots on it (or so I say anyway) Ultimately I plan on putting a diesel engine in the notch, but that's very far from being done or even started on (even used those engines aren't cheap)
As for the m90 itself. It's a very capable supercharger & in my opinion one of the better designed ones. The m112 uses long rotors which don't have enough time to fill completely when exposed to air so it takes an efficiency hit there. Modifying the inlet quite a bit will help with this issue. The m90 isn't plagued by that & has a pretty good aftermarket available to help boost efficiency at higher rpm by quite a bit. The only downside I'm not too big on is that most of them out there (from the supercoupe to be specific) are an older design before the use of teflon coating on the rotors to help prevent leakage. In any case, I would run an m90 up to around 400hp before considering an upgrade. They were quite a bit oversized for the supercoupe. They are actually a good size for a stock or mild 5.0. The 4.6 on the otherhand is a different story it turns an extra 1k more rpm & has decent flowing heads. If you're going all out I'd recommend going with the 6th gen roots over the rest, but they're still quite expensive.
To be honest I almost just took a picture of the turbo's i had lined up at the time, but I'm big on s/c kits too.
#8
I haven't had any trouble with aluminized. It should hold up fine for quite a few years. Even in the worst conditions I would say you're good for 5. You could also have it coated. The big issue with it is once the coating wears off it starts to rust like mild steel. If you're wanting something that's going to last for a long long time I'd say the ss is the way to go.
I actually don't own a supercharged car atm. The m90 in the picture was actually going on a 5.0. I was building the kit & wiring it with a standalone for someone else. Personally I favor roots superchargers over twin-screw & centri's because of how they work & the power range, I don't really think you can beat the feel of one. When it comes down to it though I keep going turbo for some reason. The roots & twin screw route makes the car feel faster because it's instant power, but the turbo makes the car faster. I guess when it comes down to it I want to be the faster person in a race. I've been meaning to build a kit for one of my own cars, but I end up thinking that maybe I'll turbo it instead.
I plan on swapping the 5.0 out of my gt into my notch & putting the 351w into the gt. If I do that I will end up putting a roots on it (or so I say anyway) Ultimately I plan on putting a diesel engine in the notch, but that's very far from being done or even started on (even used those engines aren't cheap)
As for the m90 itself. It's a very capable supercharger & in my opinion one of the better designed ones. The m112 uses long rotors which don't have enough time to fill completely when exposed to air so it takes an efficiency hit there. Modifying the inlet quite a bit will help with this issue. The m90 isn't plagued by that & has a pretty good aftermarket available to help boost efficiency at higher rpm by quite a bit. The only downside I'm not too big on is that most of them out there (from the supercoupe to be specific) are an older design before the use of teflon coating on the rotors to help prevent leakage. In any case, I would run an m90 up to around 400hp before considering an upgrade. They were quite a bit oversized for the supercoupe. They are actually a good size for a stock or mild 5.0. The 4.6 on the otherhand is a different story it turns an extra 1k more rpm & has decent flowing heads. If you're going all out I'd recommend going with the 6th gen roots over the rest, but they're still quite expensive.
To be honest I almost just took a picture of the turbo's i had lined up at the time, but I'm big on s/c kits too.
I actually don't own a supercharged car atm. The m90 in the picture was actually going on a 5.0. I was building the kit & wiring it with a standalone for someone else. Personally I favor roots superchargers over twin-screw & centri's because of how they work & the power range, I don't really think you can beat the feel of one. When it comes down to it though I keep going turbo for some reason. The roots & twin screw route makes the car feel faster because it's instant power, but the turbo makes the car faster. I guess when it comes down to it I want to be the faster person in a race. I've been meaning to build a kit for one of my own cars, but I end up thinking that maybe I'll turbo it instead.
I plan on swapping the 5.0 out of my gt into my notch & putting the 351w into the gt. If I do that I will end up putting a roots on it (or so I say anyway) Ultimately I plan on putting a diesel engine in the notch, but that's very far from being done or even started on (even used those engines aren't cheap)
As for the m90 itself. It's a very capable supercharger & in my opinion one of the better designed ones. The m112 uses long rotors which don't have enough time to fill completely when exposed to air so it takes an efficiency hit there. Modifying the inlet quite a bit will help with this issue. The m90 isn't plagued by that & has a pretty good aftermarket available to help boost efficiency at higher rpm by quite a bit. The only downside I'm not too big on is that most of them out there (from the supercoupe to be specific) are an older design before the use of teflon coating on the rotors to help prevent leakage. In any case, I would run an m90 up to around 400hp before considering an upgrade. They were quite a bit oversized for the supercoupe. They are actually a good size for a stock or mild 5.0. The 4.6 on the otherhand is a different story it turns an extra 1k more rpm & has decent flowing heads. If you're going all out I'd recommend going with the 6th gen roots over the rest, but they're still quite expensive.
To be honest I almost just took a picture of the turbo's i had lined up at the time, but I'm big on s/c kits too.
#9
Actually I have always used turbos in the past, I have never sc'd a car (although I owned a stock '90 supercoupe). I bought an eaton m90 and started to build a kit for my old mazda mx6 and decided a turbo was a better option. The engine was 2.5 liters, 156hp 9.81 in the 1/8 and completely stock with only 7lbs. the engine made 319 whp 8.29 in the 1/8(w/a slipping clutch). I was sold immediately. I asked about the m90 because I have heard of people blowing them apart trying to make 500hp with them. I'm actually considering going turbo on my 4.6 but there is just something about a roots sitting on top! Don't know what to do.
Those kl03's are pretty good running engines stock considering the liters. My first car I ever did anything with was a '96 Probe GT. Not too big on fwd though.
#10
The stock case isn't very reinforced, same with the m112. Magnum powers made a pretty bulky case for them. Still, I wouldn't push one above 400.
Those kl03's are pretty good running engines stock considering the liters. My first car I ever did anything with was a '96 Probe GT. Not too big on fwd though.
Those kl03's are pretty good running engines stock considering the liters. My first car I ever did anything with was a '96 Probe GT. Not too big on fwd though.