Turbocharge or supercharge ?
06-05-2012, 02:42 PM
#11
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 24
06-05-2012, 08:28 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 8
Yeah today I just picked up a 351w with heads , so that 302 of mine is getting sold. I said screw it I'll go with the 351 and still throw a turbo on it. It's going to have the t56 tranny 6speed swap it all into my 1964 falcon. Its a project for sure
06-09-2012, 09:45 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: las vegas, nv
Posts: 9,092
turbo it and be done. much easier then a new motor. where in vegas are you?
here is what my engine bay looks like right now. just put it back together. going to have carl at dyno dan tune it in a a few weeks.
here is what my engine bay looks like right now. just put it back together. going to have carl at dyno dan tune it in a a few weeks.
06-12-2012, 08:19 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
I'm going to assume you're aiming for 650, not 650+. I would just swap some cheap forged rods & hypereutectic pistons in & keep the stock displacement. The stock truck rods will hold it, but I would question the rod bolts. With the cost of replacing the bolts, you may as well just buy a set of cheap forged I beams that come with good bolts. Scat sells some for around $260. Speedpro hypers are pretty good, cheap, & will hold that. Crank & block will definitely hold.
The hx35 is a bit small for the application with the power levels you're wanting. To give you an idea size wise; for one of my cars, my 4 cylinder ranger, I have both an hx40 & an hx35, which I machined to be externally gated. Both work well for a mid-high rpm turbo. The hx35 will reach 25psi at 3200-3400rpm with the split scroll header I built on a 4 cylinder. I would steer more toward the 45, 50, or even 55 for the power you're wanting if you're dead set on a cheap/used single. The 8 blade compressors tend to favor higher efficiency at higher pressure ratios so I would advise finding a 7 or even a 6 if possible. The lower blade counts also typically flow a bit more air, but are more efficient at lower P/Rs (& have the added benefit of being extremely loud if you're into that kind of thing), you can see this on most compressor maps for turbos that come with varying blade counts with the same size inducer/exducer. Several people have done twin junkyard t3's on 302/351 engines. Typically the .48 a/r for a 302, .63 for a 351. With my 302, I currently have two junkyard .63's which I was going to use on my 351w, but decided on a different set of turbos. You can snag those for around $50-$200, good for a little above 600ish hp for the cost. If you're willing to spend the money, you can get one better suited. With used turbos. The bigger the engine, the more difficult it is to find one that fits your goals just right. Do yourself a favor, pick your power goals & what characteristics you want the car to have BEFORE choosing a turbo (or any other parts for that matter) & map/figure the parts from there. Technically, an hx35 would work great for a 302 if your goals made it the ideal size.
I always recommend a standalone, even for near stock cars if you have the time & want to put the time into learning for multiple reasons; fuel economy, power, response times, troubleshooting, adaptability, & above all smoothness. I have yet to put a standalone in a car that did not yield, in the least, smoother idle/low end, and better fuel economy. Even worse case scenario on a great running car you can still typically pick up 1-3mpg due to factory emissions laws requiring the company to run a somewhat rich cruise a/f ratio. I typically lean the cars out at cruise rpm/load until they surge then back off a few points, typically around 16.3-17:1 (this will likely cause a failed emissions test, a lean burn produces more NOx, Rich will produce more HC & CO emissions, hence the 14.7 "middle ground" most factory cars are tuned for).
I've gone the fmu/rrfpr route on a couple cars & it works, but it is in no way a close comparison. The chip route would depend on the ecu being used & person tuning the car.
There are multiple ways to make the car run good, some cheaper than others. If you aren't willing to invest the time/not interested, get it tuned by a good shop. If you are, buy a standalone.
The hx35 is a bit small for the application with the power levels you're wanting. To give you an idea size wise; for one of my cars, my 4 cylinder ranger, I have both an hx40 & an hx35, which I machined to be externally gated. Both work well for a mid-high rpm turbo. The hx35 will reach 25psi at 3200-3400rpm with the split scroll header I built on a 4 cylinder. I would steer more toward the 45, 50, or even 55 for the power you're wanting if you're dead set on a cheap/used single. The 8 blade compressors tend to favor higher efficiency at higher pressure ratios so I would advise finding a 7 or even a 6 if possible. The lower blade counts also typically flow a bit more air, but are more efficient at lower P/Rs (& have the added benefit of being extremely loud if you're into that kind of thing), you can see this on most compressor maps for turbos that come with varying blade counts with the same size inducer/exducer. Several people have done twin junkyard t3's on 302/351 engines. Typically the .48 a/r for a 302, .63 for a 351. With my 302, I currently have two junkyard .63's which I was going to use on my 351w, but decided on a different set of turbos. You can snag those for around $50-$200, good for a little above 600ish hp for the cost. If you're willing to spend the money, you can get one better suited. With used turbos. The bigger the engine, the more difficult it is to find one that fits your goals just right. Do yourself a favor, pick your power goals & what characteristics you want the car to have BEFORE choosing a turbo (or any other parts for that matter) & map/figure the parts from there. Technically, an hx35 would work great for a 302 if your goals made it the ideal size.
I always recommend a standalone, even for near stock cars if you have the time & want to put the time into learning for multiple reasons; fuel economy, power, response times, troubleshooting, adaptability, & above all smoothness. I have yet to put a standalone in a car that did not yield, in the least, smoother idle/low end, and better fuel economy. Even worse case scenario on a great running car you can still typically pick up 1-3mpg due to factory emissions laws requiring the company to run a somewhat rich cruise a/f ratio. I typically lean the cars out at cruise rpm/load until they surge then back off a few points, typically around 16.3-17:1 (this will likely cause a failed emissions test, a lean burn produces more NOx, Rich will produce more HC & CO emissions, hence the 14.7 "middle ground" most factory cars are tuned for).
I've gone the fmu/rrfpr route on a couple cars & it works, but it is in no way a close comparison. The chip route would depend on the ecu being used & person tuning the car.
There are multiple ways to make the car run good, some cheaper than others. If you aren't willing to invest the time/not interested, get it tuned by a good shop. If you are, buy a standalone.
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