StangEatsRice

I've decided to go the nitrous route after contemplating a cheap supercharger kit or this route. The car is a 99 gt 5speed /w 84k miles on it. It was stock until I got it in Feb '03 and I've only put 1500 miles on the car. Obviously I don't drive it a whole lot... Anyway mods are underdrives, accufab tb/plenum, pypes o/r x and catback, 3.73(going in after I get back from vaca on the 22nd) and soon to be a Zex wet kit. My friend has a shop where he's doing the gears for 200 out the door so I couldn't say no and the nitrous kit he has is new and only wants 200 as well for it. I'm fairly certain all I need is a window switch, purge if the kit doesn't have it, and a blow down for at the track if they even check. I plan on only spraying a 100 shot even though everyone says i'll bump it to a 125 in just a few days. Stock fuel pump and stock injectors(19lb), was going to roll with stock style plugs and gap...? Spraying mostly at the track.
What I want to know...
How long and what shot have you been running? What kit? What have you broke? Is the plenum plate worth it? Will a stock intake be sufficient(2hp gain on most dyno's seems pointless...)? Do I need a wideband? Bottle heater? Any thoughts are appreciated...

jimkaray

Plugs should be 1 step colder and start w/ .035 gap. You can experiment with opening up the gap once you have everything working. Bottle heater and a pressure gauge are important to have. You'll want to back off the timing a couple degrees, maybe as much as 4 but you should get a N2O specific tune to optimize air/fuel & timing. You really don't need the wideband unless you want to datalog. With the 100 shot your not on the edge or anything so if you really want to optimize the power while staying safe then get it dyno tuned.
Nitrous is all about big torque so the first casualty will be traction. Good tires will then stress the clutch, a better clutch will add stress to the rear and trans...so when one weak link is exposed another will step up.

StangEatsRice

The car will be sprayed for the first time at the dyno. I'm not messing around with the car unturned with bolt ons, and nitrous on top of it. I know my clutch will be going before 90k miles but i'm hoping my trans and rear hold up at least until I get back to haven't a decent bank account where I don't have to worry haha. I've read a couple of guys have gone through multiple intake manifolds from blow back or puddling which is a concern of mine. Another question, say i'm at the track for this. There is really only like 20sec between the end of the burnout and the green light and your off. Is this when I arm the nitrous and purge? Cause the nitrous can't be armed for my burnout correct? I may be thinking of this wrong just thought with the nitrous armed as soon as you hit 3k shes a goin.

jimkaray

Your burnout process should not be any different than you would do without nitrous. I purge as I creep up and light the first bulb. Keep in mind the window switch can be programed to fit your needs so the set up is flexibility. After arming the system you have two basic criteria to meet before the system will spray: a) Must be at WOT and b) pass the window switch low RPM setting. If you can avoid that then you can arm the system before the burnout. Besides setting your low/high RPM window that the system will activate/deactive in you can also set the window switch to activate in a specific gear.

StangEatsRice

Kept thinking I would be hitting wot in my burnout but I never do so awesome thank you!