You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
So I posted in another thread Friday about tips for installing my foose hood and spoiler. The hood went on fine, the spoiler they didn't send instructions or drilling templates.
I have been lookign at the spoiler and thinking why do you need to drill anyway? The two prongs that are on the back of each endcap that you need to drill are plastic peices that aren't really adding any stability to the end caps other than aligning it. The red adhesive strip is doing all the keeping in palce. Why can't i just cut the plastic prongs off and just put the end caps on? The main body of the spoiler is held in palce with the adhesive strip only. Any reason the end caps can't be either?
Hoenstly if i don't ahve to drill the body, i woudl rather not. I may want to change styles in a year or so and no holes in the fenders is a big plus for me. Anyone stuck the end caps of a foose or other ducktail on their car with just the red adhesive strips the parts come with and cut the plastic things off?
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
I can't recalll who but there was a thread recently where they said they cut the prongs off and relied solely on the 3M tape. It depends on your confidence with the tape, too. I have 3 different appearance mods held on with 3M tape. After over 30,000 miles and frequent sustained runs over 90 MPH (often beyond 110), they're solid as a rock. BUT... it all depends on following the instructions to the letter. Preperation and curing. Be sure to install the tape as instructed.
I think Nuke summed it up best... proper prep and you should have no issues installing without drilling. Definitely interested in seeing how this goes along with the final look as I am not sure yet how my recently "cleaned" trunk will end up long term and this spoiler has me a bit intrigued!
__________________
Mods: Edelbrock Supercharger 422RWHP/394RWTQ, CDC convertible bar & Classic Chin, Roush rear springs, GTAs, Steeda Billet LCAs & adj. panhard, CHE anti-squat, Pro5.0 shifter with Hurst stick/knob, RotorPro Rotors, Agent 47 mirrors, Dual Aeroforce gauges, CS69 wheels
I can't recalll who but there was a thread recently where they said they cut the prongs off and relied solely on the 3M tape. It depends on your confidence with the tape, too. I have 3 different appearance mods held on with 3M tape. After over 30,000 miles and frequent sustained runs over 90 MPH (often beyond 110), they're solid as a rock. BUT... it all depends on following the instructions to the letter. Preperation and curing. Be sure to install the tape as instructed.
So what exactly is the curing process. I have no instuctions. The blackout panel I used said wipe area w isoprople alcohol and stick it down. Same process here I assume. As for curing that amount to pitting it sit for a while before driving. If so how long should I let it sit. Pics taken btw. Will post later sittinig in mcd's now or i'd post them up
I posted this on an earlier thread about quarter window louvers where there was no tape on the louvers but the process is the same (as I reread it I see I repeat myself but you'll get the idea):
You can pick up 3M tape at most auto stores. Get the width that fits your louvers.
You'll need either 90% or higher alcohol or a product at the auto store for cleaning/preping the surfaces; both the window AND the areas of the louver that you're applying the tape to. Many people use regular ~70% isopropyl alcohol which has other contaminants.
Tape should be applied between 65 deg. F and 80 deg. F AND allowed to SIT for 24 hours. This includes NOT driving the car after applying the louver to the window or any other surface. The tape needs to cure motionless. Many people don't do this and complain of poor adhesion.
When applying the tape to the louver, leave about a 1/2" gap on either side of the BOTTOMof the louver to allow rain and wash water to drain.
Be sure to clean the glass or other surface with the chemical of your choice. Do it again. Surface prep is 80% of the answer to adhesion issues.
After applying the louver to the surface, it MUST sit for 24 hours between 65 deg. F and 80 deg. F.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Any reason you have to drill for spoiler??
