Best "bang" for my buck suspension wise

[steelcomp]

Good observation. Absolutely accurate, except that I don't think that the sphere is carrying any (significant) load under applied forces, for exactly the point you mention. Infact this designe maybe less reliable due to all of the sheer load being placed directlyonthe open joint of the two halves of the ball support. The loads imparted in the bushing by the sphere are "spherical", not linear, and really doinglittle to prevent linear movement, given the design. The sphere would tend to "split" the bushing where the separation is, (forces vectoring in every direction but linerally) at which point, the steel sleeve is carrying the linear load on far less poly than a normal bushing (due to the relief for the sphere). Less material = more deflection under this circumstance. The steel bushing actually has two small contact points per busing, rather than one continuous surface, as with a typical thru bushing. But hey, it looks cool. [/quote]ORIGINAL: steelcomp Agreed...I think what they're referring to as "binding" is only the resistance to the slight twist of the poly bushing vs. a rod end's free movenent. There'sno mechanical binding as F1 said. I also don't think I've ever seen different durometer values for polyeurethane. The ball is probably nylon or delrin or some other harder plastic, and the outers are the same poly as on other suspension parts. If it wasn't, there would be no benefit. Hi steelcomp, PolyU comes in several different durometer values but the link page shows no specific numbers with regards to this producct. As far as I can tell there is no advantage to this bushing with a ball in the middle because the steel insert has to deform the same outer cylnder of bushing material as a one or two piece bushing would have to move. Now if the steel insert was allowed to move with full freedom and nt have to deform any poly along the wayby removing the poly from the path of the steel insert for the full range movement needed for the joint and ifyou could use adurable enough material for the ball and ball cups that they wouldbe reasonably durable I would say that this designcould have some merit by reducing NVH over a heim jointwhile alsoreducing the small inherent damping and recentering forces of a conventional steel sleeved cylndrical poly bushing. Butin the formas itis shown on the website,from an engineering point of view it's hype and offers no significant improvement over a standard poly bushing.Infact this designe maybe less reliable due to all of the sheer load being placed directlyonthe open joint of the two halves of the ball support. They could improve this sligtly by moulding thejointoffset by 1/2 the depth of one half of the outer parts so that there is not an opening in the poly where mot of the sheer load will goand the ball would have better support in the contol arm's tubular bushing end. Of course this is an obvious solution and I doubt that you could make it work in practical terms and offer the same amount of price advantage over a conventional lined rodend. Cheers

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!

[Pony Ride]

So, as far as best bang for the buck for street/daily driving use, I found this over the weekend and would like some feedback....

Stangsuspension.com has put together a couple of packages.... looks like a pretty good daily driving setup for just under a grand... what do you think?

Stage 1 - $373.37
[ul][*]Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs[*]Camber Adjustment Bolt Kit[*]Steeda Street Panhard Bar [/ul]
Stage 2 - $620.87
[ul][*]Tokico D-Spec Wide-Range Adjustable Shocks & Struts Package[*]Tokico D-Spec Wide-Range Remote Adjusters - Tokico remote adjusters allow you to adjust the rear Tokico shocks without removing your inner trunk liner.[*]BMR Fabrication Lower Control Arms[/ul]

[CrazyAl]

I would not buy the Stage 1 kit as-is becasue it does not address the pinion angle issue created by lowering the car. The LCAs are definatley needed in my opinion.

The Stage 2 kit isn't bad. This seems like a good package. However, the D-spec remote adjusters aren't needed. You don't have to remove the inner trunk liner to adjust the rear D-specs. Just pull back the liner with one hand and make the adjustment with the other.

[Pony Ride]

Okay, maybe I didn't make myself clear in my previous post. If I were to buy the afore mentioned Stage 1 AND 2 kits from stangsuspension.com, would this be a good daily driving setup for under just under a grand? I know the Tokico adjuster probably isn't needed, but with the discount they're offering on these packaged parts, does it really matter? The Tokico adjuster notwithstanding, is this stilla good street setup for the money? Thanks in advance for the feedback!

[CrazyAl]

Yeah, if you get both the stage-1 and stage-2 kits that setup would be good.

I didn't bother to examine the prices, but the parts are certainly fine. I was just suggesting that you may want to check around a bit...it may be that you could get your parts cheaper elsewhere, especially when you can forget about the remote adjusters.

Oh, and one thing I forgot. Make sure those BMR control arms in the package are ADJUSTABLE ones. BMR makes a lot of different kinds of LCAs. Because you are lowering, you need ADJUSTABLE ones.

[F1Fan]

ORIGINAL: steelcomp

Agreed...I think what they're referring to as "binding" is only the resistance to the slight twist of the poly bushing vs. a rod end's free movenent. There'sno mechanical binding as F1 said.
I also don't think I've ever seen different durometer values for polyeurethane. The ball is probably nylon or delrin or some other harder plastic, and the outers are the same poly as on other suspension parts. If it wasn't, there would be no benefit.

Hi steelcomp,

Oops,you're right,I was thinking of my modified version of the thing with the poly carved out of the ends. Those hunks of poly on the ends are the problem and saving grace at the same time for this sort of odd ball bushing design.

Cheers

[darkhorse_07]

Pony Ride,

Have you seen BMR'sLevel 1?

LEVEL 1 - Package includes Front Swaybar(SB022), Rear Swaybar(SB023), Tokico D-SPEC Adjustable Front struts and shocks(DSP12), Upper Strut Mounts(SM001), Lowering Springs(SP009), Adjustable Panhard Rod(PHR006), Control Arm Relocation Brackets(CAB005), and Camber bolts... about $1400, but other than LCA's and UCA's it seems pretty solid.

Anyone have this package?

[adidasUNT8]

Hey this question is for Al (like all the questions in all of the suspension forums are) i know that you said that you recommended getting the LCA relocation brackets welded in if your 60 ft time goes under 1.5.....well i dont thinkmy time will be that low....but i plan on upgrading performance-wise in the reasonably near future.....and the BMR relocation brackets i have (in box) are "bolt-in"....so could i get these bolted on now....then welded after they are bolted on??....i plan on taking it to the shop tomorrow morning....thanks again Al

[CrazyAl]

ORIGINAL: adidasUNT8

Hey this question is for Al (like all the questions in all of the suspension forums are) i know that you said that you recommended getting the LCA relocation brackets welded in if your 60 ft time goes under 1.5.....well i dont thinkmy time will be that low....but i plan on upgrading performance-wise in the reasonably near future.....and the BMR relocation brackets i have (in box) are "bolt-in"....so could i get these bolted on now....then welded after they are bolted on??....i plan on taking it to the shop tomorrow morning....thanks again Al

Yes, you can do that. The parts are the same for weld-on or bolt-in. The only difference is that when you weld them, you have to grind off some of the powdercoating so you can get down to bare metal for a good weld. So you could bolt them on now, and then later on have the guys at the shop take 'em off, prep, and then weld them back on.

Be sure to save the parts that come in the kit. BMR supplies some bolts and spacers designed to hold the brackets in the proper place for welding. So, keep these on hand for when you decide to weld 'em.

Just as a quick note, I would seriously consider welding them even if your times aren't that low yet. A welded installation is much stronger and stiffer than a bolt-on. I don't think you're in danger of breaking bolts or anything with the bolt-on install, it's just that I would rather do the job right the first time around.

[adidasUNT8]

ok Al....well i didnt get them welded...but i have an uncle that do that pretty easily down the road....but yeah my front end was out of alignment..and obviously the pinion angle was pretty far off he said...but he didnt have a angle reader...so he set it as close as he could by eye....but he sounded like he knew what he was talking about and had done it many times before.....here's a pic....probably pretty hard to tell but the lower control arm is at a downward facing angle and my launch and gripping is 110% better.....thanks again for everything Al....next thing on the list will be the D specs

[IMG]local://upfiles/55170/DF9E7434E9434E22BB0805DFCBEAE430.jpg[/IMG]