Best "bang" for my buck suspension wise - Page 2

CrazyAl · 10-31-2006, 12:35 PM

Charlie said that he wants to carve corners. There's no reason why you can't make a good drag AND corner-carver, but it's not going to be cheap. Becasue you're on a budget, knowing what you want out of your car will determine what parts are the best for you to get.

I think that makes the Saleen kit that was suggested above a very nice idea. The only problem is that it comes with a FRONT sway bar. WTF? It's the REAR that needs replacing first.

Regardless, here are my thoughts:

1. LCAs are a damn good idea, drag or corners. The stock ones suck.
2. LCA relocation brackets: that's drag-only. No real point in this case.

IMHO the best handling upgrades will be as follows, in order:

1. LCAs
2. Rear sway bar
3. Lowering springs (which basically requires an adjustable panhard bar, adjustable LCAs--#1, camber bolts, and an alignment)
4. Upgraded shocks (Toicko D-specs are the best)

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S2Charlie · 10-31-2006, 05:14 PM

Damn... Saleen kit from the Saleen site is 800 bucks, anyone know where it's cheaper?

So I think I got it

Saleen Kit (Shocks, Struts, Lowering springs, Front Sway Bar)
LCA's
Rear Sway Bar
and an Adjustable Panhard Bar

then an Alignment...

Is this a good way to spend $1200 do you guys think this will be good enough for a budget turn slicer?

Thanks.

CrazyAl · 10-31-2006, 06:57 PM

Here's what I would buy:

Steeda "lite" lowering springs: $239 list price for all 4.
Toicko D-spec Shocks: $550 (shipped, all 4, from Brenspeed)
BMR Adjustable street LCAs $250
BMR Adjsutable Panhard Bar $130
BMR Panhard bar brace $100 (you can skip this if cost is a major factor, but I'd go ahead and to it at the same time as the other parts)
BMR rear sway bar $200

The difference between this list and your most recent one is simply that you're getting the Toicko D-spec shocks instead of the Saleen shocks. This option is a little more expensive, but the Toickos much better shocks.

Also, I wouldn't install a bigger front sway bar. One of the reasons to upgrade the rear ONLY is to alter the steering balance of the car a bit. If you replace BOTH, this won't happen. If you do decide to buy the Saleen spring/shock kit instead, then I would sell that front Swaybar on Ebay to help mitigate the cost of buying the rear one.

redfiregt2006 · 10-31-2006, 07:29 PM

i'm going to mod my suspension this christmas and i was thinking about doing exactly that list down there, but in the inverse order:
1. lowering springs
2. tockico d-specs
3. lca's
4. rear swaybar

does it affect anything if i do it in that order?? or is it extremely important to follow the order you said?

thanks a lot Al.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: CrazyAl

Charlie said that he wants to carve corners. There's no reason why you can't make a good drag AND corner-carver, but it's not going to be cheap. Becasue you're on a budget, knowing what you want out of your car will determine what parts are the best for you to get.

I think that makes the Saleen kit that was suggested above a very nice idea. The only problem is that it comes with a FRONT sway bar. WTF? It's the REAR that needs replacing first.

Regardless, here are my thoughts:

1. LCAs are a damn good idea, drag or corners. The stock ones suck.
2. LCA relocation brackets: that's drag-only. No real point in this case.

IMHO the best handling upgrades will be as follows, in order:

1. LCAs
2. Rear sway bar
3. Lowering springs (which basically requires an adjustable panhard bar, adjustable LCAs--#1, camber bolts, and an alignment)
4. Upgraded shocks (Toicko D-specs are the best)

CrazyAl · 10-31-2006, 07:59 PM

The order isn't "etched in stone" but there are a few things to consider:

First off, when you install the lowering springs you are changing various suspension angles on the car. To do the job right, you need to do the alignment (Camber correction), Adjustable LCAs, and the adjustable panhard bar at the same time as the springs.

The other parts can be installed whenever you feel like it, in no particular order. However, it will be cheaper for you do do it all at once. That way you don't have to pay for the mechanic to take apart things that he already put together once before.

I suggested the LCAs first becasue they address a major factory weakness, and they are needed before doing the springs.

redfiregt2006 · 11-01-2006, 03:26 PM

if i'm doing only a mild drop, with the steeda springs (which claim a 1.25" drop in the rear), would I still need adjustable lca's or could i get the steeda Chrome-Moly lca's(non-adjustable)???

i suppose crazy al is going to respond to this question, but also thanks to everyone else on this forum.

CrazyAl · 11-01-2006, 03:52 PM

Any drop is going to change your pinion angle.

Asking "do I still need adjustable LCAs" is a loaded question.

To do it right, YES, you do.

Can you get away with driving without the adjustable LCAs? Probably--it's not as if your car will explode the day you back it out of the shop. But be expecting driveline noise, rear end hopping under acceleration, and accelerated wear of pinion bearings and rear driveline joints.

Red06 · 11-02-2006, 03:12 PM

Seems to me the cheapest/best way to go is to buy fixed length LCAs and an adjustable UCA. By only adjusting the center, you donâ€™t have to worry about keeping the axle perpendicular to the car. However, when you lower the car and use stock length LCAs you push the axle back and the pinion angle increases (nose goes down). Right? When using an adjustable UCA, you may push the axle back more to correct the pinion angle. Is there some point where you risk pushing the drive shaft out enough to risk spline damage using this method? Or am I all messed up?

CrazyAl · 11-02-2006, 03:40 PM

Pinion angle changes from lowering or control arm adjustment are very small--usually just a degree or two tops. That small of an angle change is going to alter driveshaft length by a tiny fraction of an inch. There is no way that would ever cause issues with spline engagement.

By the way, the point is moot becasue the stock driveshaft doesn't have any slip-joint s in it or a slip yoke on the transmission. It has CVs. If instead you use a solid driveshaft (1-pc design) these are based on the Ford Ranger setup, and they have a very long slip joint intended for the longer suspension travel of the truck. Even if you were moving the driveshaft a lot (which you aren't) there would still be plenty of room.

Anyway, you certainly could use Fixed LCAs and an adjustable upper. That works fine, and there are people who do that.

I, however, recommend against it. I suggest adjustable lowers and leaving the upper stock (or if you are looking for upgrades, a SOLID upper). Why?

First off, the lowers are EASIER to adjust than the upper. Yes, there are two of them so you have to make your adjustments identical between them. However there is a lot more room to get a wrench on the lowers than on the upper. Adjusting the upper and then torquing down the jam nuts when you are done is a pain to say the least.

Second, an adjustable lower/solid upper setup is stronger than a solid lower/adjustable upper.

ThisBlood147 · 11-03-2006, 04:09 AM

Hey Crazy Al (resident suspension guru

).....I will be going with the FRPP lowering springs, and quite a few "other" suspension parts. But despite the extensive research I've put forward on all this undercarriage upgrade, I'm still a bit clueless on the whole camber fix for lowered cars. From what I've read so far, there seems to be some debate as to whether to go with camber bolts or camber plates. What's your take, and is this camber adjustment something I'll be able to easily do myself?