Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
#1
Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
I have Tokico shocks, Steeda Ultra Light Springs and 20" Shelby Razors (24mm offset) all in transit. I'm anticipating needing an adjustable panhard bar to center the axle as any variance will be quite visible with the wheels pushed out to the fender well lip with my wheel choice.
I'm looking for opinions on an adjustable panhard bar. After some looking, it appears as if I have narrowed it down the BMR or Spohn with bushings on each end based on maintaining ride quality, ease of adjustability, securing the lock nuts after installation, appearance of quality and price.
Good choice or not? Is there anything better out there? Spohn is available in all Chrome Moly, should I consider that?
Any help is appreciated....
nm3[/align]
I'm looking for opinions on an adjustable panhard bar. After some looking, it appears as if I have narrowed it down the BMR or Spohn with bushings on each end based on maintaining ride quality, ease of adjustability, securing the lock nuts after installation, appearance of quality and price.
Good choice or not? Is there anything better out there? Spohn is available in all Chrome Moly, should I consider that?
Any help is appreciated....
nm3[/align]
#2
RE: Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
I have the spohn in chrome moly with poly at both ends. The price difference from the standard isn't much. I haven't had any problems with it. As insurance, make sure you torque stripe the nuts once you are finished and check periodically to make sure they stay tight.
#3
RE: Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
I have the Spohn chrom-moly with the poly/rod end combo. The Spohn is very easy to adjust, on car. Its very light and stiff and high quality. I really don't notice any increase in NVH or decrease in ride quality.
To be honest, unless you are a racer, the chrome-moly is overkill, as is the rod-end. On a day-to-day driving scenario I can tell absolutely no diff between the stock PHB/brace and my Spohn/Steeda combo. So...unless racing is your thing just go with the cheapest adjustable. And - no need for a brace (and even if you are a racer, the brace is debateable unless you had a car capable of pulling high Gs in corners)
To be honest, unless you are a racer, the chrome-moly is overkill, as is the rod-end. On a day-to-day driving scenario I can tell absolutely no diff between the stock PHB/brace and my Spohn/Steeda combo. So...unless racing is your thing just go with the cheapest adjustable. And - no need for a brace (and even if you are a racer, the brace is debateable unless you had a car capable of pulling high Gs in corners)
#4
RE: Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
I'd like to suggest UMI Performance PHB's that I sell (and use). http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...&ModelID=5(there are also pics you can see)
There are 4 adjustable units (and one non-adjustable) ranging in price from $109 to $179.
The two most popular are the 1042 and 1043.
The 1042 is a great, great street PHB. It uses a poly bushing for noise isolation on the body side, but a rod-end and turnbuckle on the axle side to allow for free movement of the PHB, and really quick adjustments since you can easily access the jam-nuts. It's also stronger than any PHB where the adjustment is in the middle.
The 1043 and 1043CM are the strongest bars with the least deflection. They are double rod-ended, and while poly bushings are stiff, they still flex. Rod-ends do not. All the UMI bars use high-end teflon lined rod-ends, not the ones that rattle like mad. The weight difference between the mild steel and CM version is about a pound. No other difference but for price.
As somone who puts a bigger beating on PHB's than most anyone (and has torture tested the UMI bars myself), and as a site sponsor I urge you to consider the UMI range of bars. And of course I'd be happy to answer any questions I can for you.
There are 4 adjustable units (and one non-adjustable) ranging in price from $109 to $179.
The two most popular are the 1042 and 1043.
The 1042 is a great, great street PHB. It uses a poly bushing for noise isolation on the body side, but a rod-end and turnbuckle on the axle side to allow for free movement of the PHB, and really quick adjustments since you can easily access the jam-nuts. It's also stronger than any PHB where the adjustment is in the middle.
The 1043 and 1043CM are the strongest bars with the least deflection. They are double rod-ended, and while poly bushings are stiff, they still flex. Rod-ends do not. All the UMI bars use high-end teflon lined rod-ends, not the ones that rattle like mad. The weight difference between the mild steel and CM version is about a pound. No other difference but for price.
As somone who puts a bigger beating on PHB's than most anyone (and has torture tested the UMI bars myself), and as a site sponsor I urge you to consider the UMI range of bars. And of course I'd be happy to answer any questions I can for you.
#6
RE: Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
What more would you like to know? I use the F-body version on my Camaro, and when I eventually move classes in my Mustang, I'll have one on it.
--Double rod-end versions are adjustable for length (since the rod-ends screw in).
--We use QA1 XM Series ends in size 3/4-16" which is bigger than what some others use. Many use smaller5/8" ends which are not asstrong.
--The ones used here have a static load rating of 28,081 lbs. each.
--The ball is made of 52100 bearing steel that's heat treated and Hard Chrome Plated.
--The race uses a Teflon/Kevlar liner which is self-lubricating and self-sealing
--The body is Chrome-moly Steel.
--The adapter bushings are machined billet 6061 Aluminum
--The bar ends are fully tig welded for the best penetration and cleanest welds (Not Mig welded)
--Bars are beefy 1.250†x 0.095†DOM Tubing
--Pick your color... red or black.
A PHB is about keeping the rear centered under the car, you best do that when the the PHB itself, or it's ends (bushings or rod-ends) don't flex. A good PHB isn't rocket science. You are buying quality here. Build quality, component quality and finish quality.
--Double rod-end versions are adjustable for length (since the rod-ends screw in).
--We use QA1 XM Series ends in size 3/4-16" which is bigger than what some others use. Many use smaller5/8" ends which are not asstrong.
--The ones used here have a static load rating of 28,081 lbs. each.
--The ball is made of 52100 bearing steel that's heat treated and Hard Chrome Plated.
--The race uses a Teflon/Kevlar liner which is self-lubricating and self-sealing
--The body is Chrome-moly Steel.
--The adapter bushings are machined billet 6061 Aluminum
--The bar ends are fully tig welded for the best penetration and cleanest welds (Not Mig welded)
--Bars are beefy 1.250†x 0.095†DOM Tubing
--Pick your color... red or black.
A PHB is about keeping the rear centered under the car, you best do that when the the PHB itself, or it's ends (bushings or rod-ends) don't flex. A good PHB isn't rocket science. You are buying quality here. Build quality, component quality and finish quality.
#7
RE: Which Panhard Bar BMR or Spohn?
I'm also running the Spohn combo LCA's and PH bar. Ifabd my own 4130 double rod end bars for the track.
BMR makes a combo LCA, but the bushing is much larger in dia, and to me, that meant more deflection.
QA1 rod ends seem to be the standard, and most of the reputable companies are using them, like BMR, Spohn, Steeda, etc. (I'm sure there are some cheaping out, just haven't seen them yet) After nearly 50K mi on mine, I wouldn't lose any sleep about putting them back in the car.
I personally like the Spohn LCA's abd PH Bar for the reason Sam mentioned. The PH bars that are double adjustable that have the adjuster in the middle are IMO just wrong. The poly/rod end LCA's that aren't double adjustable IMO don't have enough adjustability to get things precisely correct. Just the way I am, I guess. Same with the PH bar. The poly/rod end single adjustable bar, when there's a double adjustable version, is a waste. Young's module says Chromoly is always a better choice over mild steel for it's strength properties alone. To many, though, the difference may not justify the cost. The UMI stuff looks OK, no different or better than the others, though.
BMR makes a combo LCA, but the bushing is much larger in dia, and to me, that meant more deflection.
QA1 rod ends seem to be the standard, and most of the reputable companies are using them, like BMR, Spohn, Steeda, etc. (I'm sure there are some cheaping out, just haven't seen them yet) After nearly 50K mi on mine, I wouldn't lose any sleep about putting them back in the car.
I personally like the Spohn LCA's abd PH Bar for the reason Sam mentioned. The PH bars that are double adjustable that have the adjuster in the middle are IMO just wrong. The poly/rod end LCA's that aren't double adjustable IMO don't have enough adjustability to get things precisely correct. Just the way I am, I guess. Same with the PH bar. The poly/rod end single adjustable bar, when there's a double adjustable version, is a waste. Young's module says Chromoly is always a better choice over mild steel for it's strength properties alone. To many, though, the difference may not justify the cost. The UMI stuff looks OK, no different or better than the others, though.
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