SirKnightTG

Anyone have experience with these shocks and struts?

http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ble_shocks.php

How are they over stock and compared to others? I like how these are non-adjustable. I don't want to have to adjust them if I don't have to. I'm not building a race car here.

Sam Strano

I know that I'll likely be chided for this. You don't have to be racing a car to see benefits from adjusting your shocks. Just like you don't have to race to your car to see benefits from adjusting your engine's tuning.

Shocks damp movement. The car has weight, and that weight moves. That changes ride, handling and the general feel of the car. I don't "race" my GT, we have a Shelby and a Camaro that are primary autox cars. Yet, I have adjustable shocks on my "street" car, and no, I don't run them full soft because the car drives better to me where I have them set (and it rides much better than stock too).

All that said, if you want just all around decent non-adjustable shocks that are better valved than stock, then a set of non-adjustable Tokico HP's will do you fine, and for a good bit less money (about $75 a set cheaper).

NJ3

I have the Pro Action dampers on my car with Steeda Ultralite springs. I used to have the FRPP dampers but the ride was harsh and when pushed on an curve with uneven pavement it got scary. The car would bounce and hop so much I felt I'd lose control. The Pro Actions are better all around than the FRPP ones.

SirKnightTG

Well what I meant by that was I don't want something that's super hardcore/expensive where the differences can only be appreciated by an all out race car and the benefits of those would be "wasted" on the street. I hope I made sense. While I would like to drag my car some (I havn't done it yet) I mainly want it to be a mean aggressive driven street machine.

I've also looked at the Roush "blue" shocks/struts which they put on their stage 2 vehicle I think. I like Roush stuff and those would match the color of my car!

I thought about the Koni based on what I read here, but I looked at the price and almost fell over. I'm sure they're good but damn...I'm not paying THAT! See those kind of shocks are what I'm talking about. Those would be great for an all out race car but on the street, I'm not at all conviced they would do much better than something else much cheaper for the money.

SirKnightTG

On my way from work there's this one road with a sharp turn that's lumpy as hell. I always have to slow way down otherwise when I hit those bumps going around there I feel like the car is going to fly all over the place. The way the car hops around it's like whoa omg!

There's other roads I drive on that's like that too but that one in particular is scary if you're not paying attention.

Sam Strano

You get what you pay for....

I hate to do this (ok, not really). But you saw the price of Koni's and almost fainted. Fine. Meanwhile, how much are those Kooks LT/Catted H-pipe going to cost you? You could go with cheaper headers and there isn't nearly the performance difference between headers as there is between dampers. How much did your aluminum driveshaft cost? Your CF intake elbow?

Koni's cost half of what you are planning for non even a totally to the tailpipe exhaust. Perspecitive, all about perspective. And if there is one change and one change only can could make to my Mustang, it's the shocks. In fact, I only have mufflers and Koni's on my GT, that's all.

scorpio333

I can tell you firsthand the Roush shocks are so similar to stock it's a kick in the mouth the price they charge. I went with the Roush springs out back and the oem shocks didn't like it. I heard the Roush shocks would match up better with the springs, they make both of them so it sounds logical. Well, they do perform better than stock, but maybe a $1 better IMO. Driving on concrete is no fun, the car reacts to every crack and imperfection. Speed bumps will have you looking for a chiropractor, seriously. They just don't absorb anything, it's like the rear of the car is a solid brick banging down the road. This remains the same from 30psi to 35.

The only spot where they don't bug me is cruising at 70 and above, it's nice and smooth. Too bad 75% of my driving is not highway.

If I had the coin right now, I'd be ordering the Konis and selling the Roushs. Killin me as I'm off for two weeks and have no wrenchin to do and that means she'll have me doing housework.

SirKnightTG

Thanks for letting me know about the Roush shocks. Perhaps you got a bad set? Oh well...

TBH, I never had any issues with the stock shocks. They're fine for me. But I can tell the ride is not as good as before and I've had the car for two years with 46K miles on it and combined with the crappy road I live down, I'm pretty sure they're goners. I was just hoping to find something that was at least as good that would maybe last a little longer.

edwgrafe

I just pulled the trigger on Steeda Pro-Action for my 2005 GT...factory stock springs. Hoping for a little stiffer ride. Currently running 255/45-18 on 18x8 FRPP w/40MM offset and a tower brace. Hopefully this combo will get me what I want

flash_xx

As Sam said, nothing makes as much difference in handling as shocks (Well, maybe a Watts link, but I still haven't got one of those). I used to recommend the Koni Str.t's, but after seeing what mine look like and feel after only 3 years I can't recommend them anymore. I might still get the Yellows but I need to know where they are made, because if they are made in Argentina like my Str.t's I'm avoiding them.

Don't cheapen out on the shocks, even if you don't race. Believe it or not, the roads are much more dangerous than a track. You have potholes, unevenness, ruts, etc. While tracks are usually silky smooth.

Also, don't fall for chinese coilovers, no matter how tempting the price.

If I don't go for the Koni yellows I might just get Bilsteins or the Vorshlag coilover setup.

Also, like Sam, I'm still running stock manifolds with only cherry bomb glasspacks after the H pipe and muffler deletes. I paid less than 70 dollars for my exhaust. Car made 305HP and 320Lb/ft Torque on a chassis dyno.