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Old 07-06-2009, 11:58 PM   #11
Vapour Trails
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahudso2 View Post
yeah i was thinking the rear end would move if i didnt load the suspension, but the directions that they sent me said to "support the vehicle at a safe working height with the suspension hanging freely." These directions came directly from the LCA manufacturer, but it was a writeup from stangnet. You would think they would give you correct instructions from the factory.
I got those same instructions, they are not correct.

Anyway, if you've got the frame supported you can always use your hack to raise the diff and compress the suspension.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:13 PM   #12
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Yeah, just make sure you do that BEFORE you remove the stock LCA bolts. It is a huge PITA trying to push the rear axle across the pavement while its jacked up, especially when your jack wheels sink into the crappy pavement in your apartment parking lot.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:59 PM   #13
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Mabey it is that I have done it so many times, but I didnt have much difficulty doing mine, but I removed the rear axle all together and did an adjustable UCA, LCA, relocation brackets, and sanded/painted the rear axle. Later I added an adjustable PHR and PHR brace.
But the parts do make one hell of a differance, especially on a lowered car. I dont have track times to proove it, but I could spin through 3rd before, now I am planted at the bottom of second.
By the way I would not advise anyone take loose loaded suspension parts on jackstands in a parking lot.
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:02 PM   #14
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thanks for all the tips guys,

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Old 07-20-2009, 10:19 PM   #15
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When I did my LCA's I did one side at a time and then I loaded the rear to torque everything down. I didn't have any issues with the rearend moving. The UCA was a pain because I didn't take the bracket all the way out and I had a hard time getting the right torque on it.
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