Sam Strano delivers the goods with Koni STR.Ts
09-22-2009, 01:09 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 671
Sam Strano delivers the goods with Koni STR.Ts
I'm gonna be a little long winded here, and I hope you guys don't mind. You can skip the first couple paragraphs if you just want to get right to the two-part review bit, thoughts on Sam and StranoParts first, then the actual hardware second.
I've been driving my '06 GT for about a year and a half now every day as my only car. (It's factory stock, minus a shifter.) We all know there's some design foibles and everyone has their quibbles with various parts of this, or any, car. We either learn to live with them or, as evinced by this and other similar communities, we modify the car to accentuate what we like about it and address the issues we don't.
Before this car I was driving a 99 Escort, and before that other similar basic transportation vehicles. When the Escort went I was at a pretty good point and decided I could get something that worked for my life AND was fun to have around. I've not regretted this decision a single day. In addition to being a heluva looker, and having a way nicer interior the car just rode better in every respect, just leaps and bounds better. After a while though, when the new car awe starts wearing off, you get back to those little foibles and quibbles.
The one big one, that after 18 months STILL got to me, was the way the rear end felt going down a twisty bumpy rode I ride both ways each day. It feels twitchy and jittery and, and like the back end is scooting side to side. I'd done some reading and reading about the rear end setup on the cars, and decided that I'd been feeling the axle motion from the panhard bar, and in order to cure it I was gonna get myself a fancy-pants watts link, and it was gonna keep my rear end from doing it's little upset dance.
So, I got a hold of Sam over at Strano Performance Parts, ready to plunk down my $650+ on a Fays2 watts link, and give him my concerns. His response, (in not so may words) 'We can fix that with $150 in shocks'. I'm cutting a lot of conversation about what I want the car to do, and whatnot but that's what it boiled down to. Instead of saying to me, a guy he doesn't know from Adam, 'Sure, that's $650 plus shipping' he took the time to hash through exactly what the car was doing, when it was doing it, why it was, and what the best (and most economical) course of action was to stop it, and get what I wanted from my car. He also discussed with me the pros and cons of JUST doing the rear shocks (which is what I chose to go with since I'm okay with the front) vs. a full set, and was never pushy or put out about anything.
Now, I'm not building a big budget race car, or even a high performance street machine. I'm just trying to get some small quibbles sorted with the car, and he was willing to take as much time as was needed to make sure we got the right stuff for me. I'll certainly be going back to him for anything else I need, or want, that he carries. This man runs a business the way it should be run. Sure he cares about making a buck, (who doesn't?) but it's more important to him that you get what you want out of your car, then about making the biggest sale he can. I'll be recommending him to friends of mine as well.
Oh yeah, I called him in the middle of the afternoon on the 16th (missed that days outgoing shipments) but they were in the mail on the 17th, and showed up at my door before 11am on the 21st. That's not too bad considering there's a weekend in there.
Now then, on to the parts themselves. I know I'm not the only one out there that is generally pretty pleased with the performance of their Mustang right off the dealer lot, and doesn't think it requires an immediate change to dropped sport springs and expensive shocks. Again, I'm not making a racing machine here, so I didn't need (or want) the adjustable high performance omega shocks that a lot of guys here run. I'm not lowered, and won't be since the ground clearance comes in handy for me. I don't autocross or drag race, or take it out to track days (yet anyway, I'd love to at some point) I just enjoy driving it on the street. Curvy roads and highway interchanges are fun that I can have safely and legally (without endangering others). Now if you're like me, and just want to tame some jitters on a street car that otherwise works good for you, I would heartily recommend these, without hesitation.
I put 'em on the car yesterday afternoon. Took about an hour, mostly cause I was looking for a deepwell 15mm 1/2"drive socket in a pile of loose tools, and was plenty easy to do myself in the driveway. (Mind you I only did the rears, rather than all four corners. The fronts would add considerably to the required time.) As soon as the car was off the jack-stands and rolling down the driveway I could feel a difference. Really they honestly made it feel like a whole new car. It's very akin to that initial step from the Escort to the Mustang. No more twitchy shaking from the rear, you hit a bump and it goes kinda: bump-done, where previously it was: bump-drop-shimmy-done. The rear end after putting these on is, to put it as simply as possible, settled. Calm would be a good word too.
The whole rear of the car is more stable, balanced, and far easier to control. Every aspect of the rear end behavior is improved. It stays more level through the turns, keeping the tires where they need to be for traction. Previously it didn't take a whole lot of pedal to get the car to break free going around right turns (often doing it unintentionally) now, even in the heavy rain we got this morning I was driving in, it's far less willing to step out on me. I'm sure I could do it intentionally, but I don't think I'll be accidentally sliding around right turns any more.
As far as those twisty bits of my daily commute go... the tight parts I used to take at 35, right where the tires started complaining are now quiet as going in a straight line. I don't know how much more I could tack on through it, but it would take me significantly over the legal posted speed, so I won't be finding out. Oh yeah, it certainly seems to hook better in a straight line now too. Haven't had a chance to run my daily freeway stuff cause of the rain, but I'm sure I'll notice just as much an increase is poise and control there too.
A lot of people think the first mod for these cars should be bolting another 25 horses under the hood... I'm pretty convinced that if you're just running a street car that you want to be able to enjoy on the road, a set of Koni STR.Ts is probably a far better investment (and I've only done the rears). And I can't think of a better guy to send you to than Sam Strano.
I've been driving my '06 GT for about a year and a half now every day as my only car. (It's factory stock, minus a shifter.) We all know there's some design foibles and everyone has their quibbles with various parts of this, or any, car. We either learn to live with them or, as evinced by this and other similar communities, we modify the car to accentuate what we like about it and address the issues we don't.
Before this car I was driving a 99 Escort, and before that other similar basic transportation vehicles. When the Escort went I was at a pretty good point and decided I could get something that worked for my life AND was fun to have around. I've not regretted this decision a single day. In addition to being a heluva looker, and having a way nicer interior the car just rode better in every respect, just leaps and bounds better. After a while though, when the new car awe starts wearing off, you get back to those little foibles and quibbles.
The one big one, that after 18 months STILL got to me, was the way the rear end felt going down a twisty bumpy rode I ride both ways each day. It feels twitchy and jittery and, and like the back end is scooting side to side. I'd done some reading and reading about the rear end setup on the cars, and decided that I'd been feeling the axle motion from the panhard bar, and in order to cure it I was gonna get myself a fancy-pants watts link, and it was gonna keep my rear end from doing it's little upset dance.
So, I got a hold of Sam over at Strano Performance Parts, ready to plunk down my $650+ on a Fays2 watts link, and give him my concerns. His response, (in not so may words) 'We can fix that with $150 in shocks'. I'm cutting a lot of conversation about what I want the car to do, and whatnot but that's what it boiled down to. Instead of saying to me, a guy he doesn't know from Adam, 'Sure, that's $650 plus shipping' he took the time to hash through exactly what the car was doing, when it was doing it, why it was, and what the best (and most economical) course of action was to stop it, and get what I wanted from my car. He also discussed with me the pros and cons of JUST doing the rear shocks (which is what I chose to go with since I'm okay with the front) vs. a full set, and was never pushy or put out about anything.
Now, I'm not building a big budget race car, or even a high performance street machine. I'm just trying to get some small quibbles sorted with the car, and he was willing to take as much time as was needed to make sure we got the right stuff for me. I'll certainly be going back to him for anything else I need, or want, that he carries. This man runs a business the way it should be run. Sure he cares about making a buck, (who doesn't?) but it's more important to him that you get what you want out of your car, then about making the biggest sale he can. I'll be recommending him to friends of mine as well.
Oh yeah, I called him in the middle of the afternoon on the 16th (missed that days outgoing shipments) but they were in the mail on the 17th, and showed up at my door before 11am on the 21st. That's not too bad considering there's a weekend in there.
Now then, on to the parts themselves. I know I'm not the only one out there that is generally pretty pleased with the performance of their Mustang right off the dealer lot, and doesn't think it requires an immediate change to dropped sport springs and expensive shocks. Again, I'm not making a racing machine here, so I didn't need (or want) the adjustable high performance omega shocks that a lot of guys here run. I'm not lowered, and won't be since the ground clearance comes in handy for me. I don't autocross or drag race, or take it out to track days (yet anyway, I'd love to at some point) I just enjoy driving it on the street. Curvy roads and highway interchanges are fun that I can have safely and legally (without endangering others). Now if you're like me, and just want to tame some jitters on a street car that otherwise works good for you, I would heartily recommend these, without hesitation.
I put 'em on the car yesterday afternoon. Took about an hour, mostly cause I was looking for a deepwell 15mm 1/2"drive socket in a pile of loose tools, and was plenty easy to do myself in the driveway. (Mind you I only did the rears, rather than all four corners. The fronts would add considerably to the required time.) As soon as the car was off the jack-stands and rolling down the driveway I could feel a difference. Really they honestly made it feel like a whole new car. It's very akin to that initial step from the Escort to the Mustang. No more twitchy shaking from the rear, you hit a bump and it goes kinda: bump-done, where previously it was: bump-drop-shimmy-done. The rear end after putting these on is, to put it as simply as possible, settled. Calm would be a good word too.
The whole rear of the car is more stable, balanced, and far easier to control. Every aspect of the rear end behavior is improved. It stays more level through the turns, keeping the tires where they need to be for traction. Previously it didn't take a whole lot of pedal to get the car to break free going around right turns (often doing it unintentionally) now, even in the heavy rain we got this morning I was driving in, it's far less willing to step out on me. I'm sure I could do it intentionally, but I don't think I'll be accidentally sliding around right turns any more.
As far as those twisty bits of my daily commute go... the tight parts I used to take at 35, right where the tires started complaining are now quiet as going in a straight line. I don't know how much more I could tack on through it, but it would take me significantly over the legal posted speed, so I won't be finding out. Oh yeah, it certainly seems to hook better in a straight line now too. Haven't had a chance to run my daily freeway stuff cause of the rain, but I'm sure I'll notice just as much an increase is poise and control there too.
A lot of people think the first mod for these cars should be bolting another 25 horses under the hood... I'm pretty convinced that if you're just running a street car that you want to be able to enjoy on the road, a set of Koni STR.Ts is probably a far better investment (and I've only done the rears). And I can't think of a better guy to send you to than Sam Strano.
09-22-2009, 02:09 PM
#2
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
I have to say, that might well be one of the best reviews I've ever read about any product.
Thank you, very much, for taking the time to put that post together Nick. I know I can't ask for better advertising than good word of mouth. The kind words about me are certainly appreciated from a personal standpoint.
Thank you, very much, for taking the time to put that post together Nick. I know I can't ask for better advertising than good word of mouth. The kind words about me are certainly appreciated from a personal standpoint.
09-22-2009, 03:02 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: WI
Posts: 395
so you bought two of these guys? http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=5
and if I wanted to lower just the back what springs would I go with? Is Roush the only one who just sells rear springs?
Thanks! And good review Kotobuki!
and if I wanted to lower just the back what springs would I go with? Is Roush the only one who just sells rear springs?
Thanks! And good review Kotobuki!
Last edited by sp44; 09-22-2009 at 03:07 PM.
09-25-2009, 06:55 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Deep in the <3 of Tx
Posts: 3,925
I recently bought some of these Koni STR.Ts. Front and Rear. I only installed the rear for now. I honestly can say I can't feel a difference over my stock shocks that had 59K miles on them and some of that is from my very rough dirt road I live down. I know they're supposed to be awesome shocks but the car feels the same to me. Meh. Also pressing down on these shocks and my stocks felt about the same. :/ Not bad, but I would have thought they would have felt different.
I hope I'll be able to tell a bigger difference when I get the front struts put on and aligned. I'll also install Steeda Ultralites at the same time.
This weekend LCA + relo brackets are going on.
I hope I'll be able to tell a bigger difference when I get the front struts put on and aligned. I'll also install Steeda Ultralites at the same time.
This weekend LCA + relo brackets are going on.
09-26-2009, 11:01 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 55
Sam,
I'm in kind of the same situation as Kotobuki here, I'd like a little better handling/feel, but don't drag or track.
I would, however, like to eliminate some of the wheel gap (stock 17" rims and tires).
I see from the website that the Koni STR.T's are compatible with mild lowering springs- can you recommend such a spring, and how much drop can be expected?
Since I don't know much about these things, if I go with the STR.T shocks and struts and a set of mild springs, will I need anything else? I've been reading some other posts about sway bars, watts links and panhard bars, and quite frankly, it makes my head hurt
I'm in kind of the same situation as Kotobuki here, I'd like a little better handling/feel, but don't drag or track.
I would, however, like to eliminate some of the wheel gap (stock 17" rims and tires).
I see from the website that the Koni STR.T's are compatible with mild lowering springs- can you recommend such a spring, and how much drop can be expected?
Since I don't know much about these things, if I go with the STR.T shocks and struts and a set of mild springs, will I need anything else? I've been reading some other posts about sway bars, watts links and panhard bars, and quite frankly, it makes my head hurt
09-28-2009, 04:35 PM
#8
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
Any of the mild lowering springs will work with the STR.T's. Steeda Sports, Ultra-lites, Pro-kit, Vogtland, H&R Sport springs, etc.
Do you need anything else? No. Some things aren't the worst idea, such as upgrading the kind of iffy stock strut mounts, and maybe an adjustable PHB to re-center the body after the drop.
But really, all you *need* are the springs. The dampers are super smart to do (same work and the stock stuff isn't so hot even on stock springs). Beyond that you require nothing else, where "requires" mean you're going to have problems if you don't.
Do you need anything else? No. Some things aren't the worst idea, such as upgrading the kind of iffy stock strut mounts, and maybe an adjustable PHB to re-center the body after the drop.
But really, all you *need* are the springs. The dampers are super smart to do (same work and the stock stuff isn't so hot even on stock springs). Beyond that you require nothing else, where "requires" mean you're going to have problems if you don't.
