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Want some WHOA B4 more go, who makes better brakes?
Anyone-
I'm looking for brakes who makes good ones that are good for everyday use and don't require keeping heat in them in order to work well.
I don't want drilled rotors don't care for the looks of them plus I don't want to keep checking them for cracks.
I've been looking at the Steeda 14" 4-piston fronts and 13" rears or the Roush 14" front and replacement rear rotors.
Steeda says their brakes work with the ABS system better than the competitions, Anyone know if there's any validility to changing out the rotors and then having issues withthe ABS?
Looking forward to the opinions.
E
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GTCASPL
Born on Date:23 March 2007 - Arrival Date: 15 May 2007/ M2005FR3 - Ford Racing Handling Pack /M7210T1 - Ford Racing Short Throw Shifter (Hurst) / M52305GT - Ford Racing Exhaust / Roush Rear Spoiler / 9" Black Shorty Antenna / 3.55 Factory Gears/ M-1007-S1895B Wheel/ Hankook Ventus V12evo Tire (P255/45/ZR18)
Steeda, Roush and Saleen BBK's are all OEM'd by StopTech. That being said, ST brake kits are designed to be used with the OEM ABS and OEM brake boosters.
If you are running your car on a road course then there are lots of mods to improve braking that are effective and cheaper than a BBK. One of these is better tires.
IMHO if you are running your car only on the street then a BBK is just window dressing.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 Steeda Ultralite wheels/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/FAYS2 Watt's Link/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
Anyone-
Steeda says their brakes work with the ABS system better than the competitions, Anyone know if there's any validility to changing out the rotors
and then having issues withthe ABS?
Looking forward to the opinions.
S197 ABS works with whatever size rotor you choose.
Its not that sensitive to rotor size.
If the wheel locks up, the ABS modulates the pressure
to that caliper. Period. S197 ABS cares not the rotor size,
just the wheel lock-up during hard braking.
Internal caliper volumes do have a direct effect on the modulation.
So caliper replacement with aftermarket is what to worry about...
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NON PUMKIN JACKER
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boozshey
Oh yeah, I forgot Norm was God on here.
Give me a break!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
<rises to the bait>
. . . Definitely not God.
Norm
Lots of folks who hang out in this section try to be genuinely helpful. However, without more information about your needs, problems, and expectations, any opinions offered are going to be a shot in the dark.
There are a lot of really BAD opinions and misinformation spouted out about brakes (esp. on the internet), most of it horrifically costly. Some of it is just due to a basic lack of knowledge; so folks end up thinking they need one thing when they really don't. Alt. folks may think there is a problem to avoid that isn't really anything to worry about. For example, you worry about some "brakes" needing heat in them to work well. This is a confusion. Some brake pads require heat in them to work optimally, but these are all track-only pads (i.e. race pads) not the street pads found in virtually all systems (and available for absolutely all systems). So when you're looking at a bbk (which means calipers along with pads), you needn't worry about heat range.
Some of what you say is hard to decipher for us. You want brakes that work well for a daily driver. Well, that would be the OEM brakes. Ford saw to it that they work pretty darn well for that duty. You say you don't want to check for cracks. To my mind that says "I'm not tracking my car," because if you were on a regular basis you would be always checking up on your rotors for the inevitable cracks. It sounds like you just want "some sort" of upgrade over stock. Too fuzzy to be of help.
So let's take it from the beginning. You're looking for brakes. Why? As Sleeper asks, what is happening that makes you think you need a better brake system (as opposed to merely better stopping power, a more confident pedal feel, a "cool" look filling up the wheel space, etc.)? Sleep mentioned the tires, but you seem to already have a decent set. The first step is to tell us what ails you currently and what your goals are for your braking system.
"We accelerate from corners, not christmas trees, and the length of our drag strip is dictated by the distance to the next braking area." -Carroll Smith
Why do you think you need a BBK? at the current time it's for looks. When it's not my main transportation it'll be for track days, autocrossing, etc.
If you are running your car on a road course then there are lots of mods to improve braking that are effective and cheaper than a BBK. One of these is better tires.I'm all ears as the wife wasn't to excited when I told her that it can cost as much as $3-$4000
IMHO if you are running your car only on the street then a BBK is just window dressing.see abov reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philostang
To the OP,
...
Some of what you say is hard to decipher for us. You want brakes that work well for a daily driver. Well, that would be the OEM brakes. Ford saw to it that they work pretty darn well for that dutyblame the magazines and t.v. car shows, a lot of their test say the stock brakes start to fade a little after a couple of laps, I know you can't always beleive what you read, but.... You say you don't want to check for cracks. To my mind that says "I'm not tracking my car," because if you were on a regular basis you would be always checking up on your rotors for the inevitable cracks. nope not tracking it yet, I plan on it someday though It sounds like you just want "some sort" of upgrade over stock. yes I do Too fuzzy to be of help.
So let's take it from the beginning. You're looking for brakes. Why? As Sleeper asks, what is happening that makes you think you need a better brake system see the reply ablut magazines and t.v. shows(as opposed to merely better stopping power, a more confident pedal feel, a "cool" look filling up the wheel space, etc.)? yes, I want better stopping (just because I think I'd like it) Sleep mentioned the tires, but you seem to already have a decent set. i've only put about 400 miles on 'em so far and I think I like'em The first step is to tell us what ails you currently and what your goals are for your braking system.I don't really have any 'ails' but coming down from 120 plus I'd just like to feel extra confident that the car will stop and will/ can do it in the shorest distance possible
Best,
-j
Plus I see (read) a lot of people add power to their cars but don't do anything to help stop all that power in a hurry if needed. I know I don't everything as safely as I should, but I do like to try.
E
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GTCASPL
Born on Date:23 March 2007 - Arrival Date: 15 May 2007/ M2005FR3 - Ford Racing Handling Pack /M7210T1 - Ford Racing Short Throw Shifter (Hurst) / M52305GT - Ford Racing Exhaust / Roush Rear Spoiler / 9" Black Shorty Antenna / 3.55 Factory Gears/ M-1007-S1895B Wheel/ Hankook Ventus V12evo Tire (P255/45/ZR18)
You would have no issues with either Steeda or Roush BBK they are both great companies. Now as to Steeda saying their system works better with ABS I think that is marketing and am sure Roush would say the same. The stock calipers and rotors will work well with upgraded lines, pads and fluid but if you want to upgrade brakes and got the money go for it. I am running a BAER kit and have had no issues with the ABS and found that the most important thing to be pad compound choice and remembering to order Vette brake pads when buying my replacement's...
Tell your wife to relax - you don't need to spend 3-4K for your stated use. For AX you don't need to do anything. For consistent stops from 120, yes, you do need to work on the brakes: good pads and hi-temp fluid is all that is really needed, maybe throw in some stainless steel lines and you'll be good to go. For occasional track work, the Hawk HP+ or equivalent will be OK while still streetable. But for more confidence and better performance you will need a true track pad, something like Hawk HT-10, DTC60, Carbotech XP10, etc. Personally I find that the HT-10 and XP10 both heat up so quick that I have no "cold" issues using them on the street (but then I'm not a tailgater either, always leave a margin for error on the street). But they have drawbacks - dusty and noisy. Your best bet is to have a set of street pads and a separate set of track pads. If you go with Carbotech, their compounds are compatible, so you can run the Bobcat pad on the street and the XP10 on the track with no re-bedding required.
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07 GT 5spd: stock > road racing > stock.
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