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My mustang is my daily driver and I like to take it to the local track every once in a while. I am wanting some springs that would not lower my car and if they did, not much, that would be good for traction at the track. Also, shocks and struts. I run 275-40-17's on the rear on 17 X 9 wheels. I am going to need some brakes also pretty soon and would like to get some new brakes, rotors, and calipers that will fit in a 17" wheel. Any suggestions?
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For springs, I suggest the Steeda Ultralites. Only lowers the car an inch. Lowering your car will effect your drag times, especially your 60's. Just FYI.
For shocks i recommend the adjustable Tokico's.
My car is pretty close to being a DD and I take it to the track as well. I would look into getting some LCA's also. They will help with wheel hop when coming out of the hole.
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Last edited by 07CaliGTstang; 10-24-2009 at 04:48 PM.
My mustang is my daily driver and I like to take it to the local track every once in a while. I am wanting some springs that would not lower my car and if they did, not much, that would be good for traction at the track. Also, shocks and struts. I run 275-40-17's on the rear on 17 X 9 wheels. I am going to need some brakes also pretty soon and would like to get some new brakes, rotors, and calipers that will fit in a 17" wheel. Any suggestions?
Why do you feel you need to upgrade the rotors and calipers?
Even for road course track users the normal recommend is better fluid and pads and then SS lines and if you are on tracks with a lot of braking then front brake cooling.
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 Steeda Ultralite wheels/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/FAYS2 Watt's Link/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
Why do you feel you need to upgrade the rotors and calipers?
Even for road course track users the normal recommend is better fluid and pads and then SS lines and if you are on tracks with a lot of braking then front brake cooling.
Just figured slotted rotors with better brakes and calipers would last longer than the stock set up. If not, I wont do the upgrade.
For springs, I suggest the Steeda Ultralites. Only lowers the car an inch. Lowering your car will effect your drag times, especially your 60's. Just FYI.
For shocks i recommend the adjustable Tokico's.
My car is pretty close to being a DD and I take it to the track as well. I would look into getting some LCA's also. They will help with wheel hop when coming out of the hole.
I have the lower control arms already. I will be running 275-60-15's on 15 X 8 wheels at the track. That will effect my e.t's and 60's more than springs will. Just wasn't sure if that would fit with lowering springs. Was curious if there was a performance spring out there that didn't lower the car. If not, I would want the least amount of drop. As for the shocks, i've been looking at the D-spec's like you suggested, just wondering if there are any other adjustables out there with a good rep. Thanks for the input.
I have the lower control arms already. I will be running 275-60-15's on 15 X 8 wheels at the track. That will effect my e.t's and 60's more than springs will. Just wasn't sure if that would fit with lowering springs. Was curious if there was a performance spring out there that didn't lower the car. If not, I would want the least amount of drop. As for the shocks, i've been looking at the D-spec's like you suggested, just wondering if there are any other adjustables out there with a good rep. Thanks for the input.
the Cobra Jet Ford drag car comes with stock, V6 springs in the rear. You won't lose any ride height, your tires will fit and it should help your 60' times. And they're cheap and abundantly available. Those and your shocks and LCA's, you're set.
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I just upgraded to centric premium rotors. hawk HPS pads, I had warped my stock rotors due to power breaking at the track , for drag racing you need thicker rotors with better pads, slotted and drilled may look cool but thats' less surface area for pad to make contact, also slotted/drilled are more suited for road racing as you are constantly on the brakes and cooling is a bigger issue.
for drag racing you need thicker rotors with better pads
Better pads should be sufficient.
Quote:
slotted/drilled are more suited for road racing as you are constantly on the brakes and cooling is a bigger issue.
Nope.
Drilled rotors are far more likely to crack from the huge amounts of heat generated extremely rapidly and repeatedly in the road-racing environment. The original reason for drilling rotors had to do with the pads generating lots of gas at high temperature and actually floating the pads off the rotor surfaces. It isn't much of an issue any longer given appropriate pad choice; the severe thermal transients are.
I suspect that going with softer rear springs will eventually have you looking for better shocks, LCA relocating brackets, or both.
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