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+10 Bout all you can say for that... F*cking Hilarious
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2007 Redfire Mustang GT
5 Speed Manual with Hurst Shifter
Whipple S/C Intercooled @ 10lbs
American Racing Long Tubes with X-Pipe
MAC Axelbacks
Ford OEM 4.10s
Saleen Suspension Lowered 1.5"
LCA and Relocation Brackets
Adj UCA and Adj Panhard Rod
Personalized Exterior
There are quite a few who run just the Roush rears including myself. After installing them an adjustable panhard was needed (mainly for cosmetic purposes) as the axle shifted about 3/4in towards the drivers side.
You can run them with the stock shocks/struts, but that will additional stress and they will more than likely wear out quicker.
For a point of reference, here's how mine looks with just the rears installed. Total drop was just shy of 1 in.
What size rims and tires are those? I love the loss of wheel gap there and might do that route but im on stock 17" rims so i dont know if it will help my gap as much
What size rims and tires are those? I love the loss of wheel gap there and might do that route but im on stock 17" rims so i dont know if it will help my gap as much
I am running 18's that are the same diameter as the stock 17s... 255/45/18 front, 285/40/18 rears. Which is the same size that comes stock on the GT500s.
I think the combination of having the Roush rear springs along with stock fronts with a supercharger (which adds a slight front drop) helps with achieving what I think is ideal wheel well gaps.
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Mods: Edelbrock Supercharger 422RWHP/394RWTQ, CDC convertible bar & Classic Chin, Roush rear springs, GTAs, Steeda Billet LCAs & adj. panhard, CHE anti-squat, Pro5.0 shifter with Hurst stick/knob, RotorPro Rotors, Agent 47 mirrors, Dual Aeroforce gauges, CS69 wheels
Agree with the post recommending alignment and camber bolts. There are other ways to adjust the camber but they are more expensive. I installed Eibach Pro-Kits on mine (without a front end alignment) and the front tires wore out due to excess toe-out from the drop. There have been a lot of posts on this topic and I don't think there is broad consensus on the adjustable panhard bar. I still have the stock one and I haven't noted any handling or wear problems with street driving.
Agree with the post recommending alignment and camber bolts. There are other ways to adjust the camber but they are more expensive. I installed Eibach Pro-Kits on mine (without a front end alignment) and the front tires wore out due to excess toe-out from the drop. There have been a lot of posts on this topic and I don't think there is broad consensus on the adjustable panhard bar. I still have the stock one and I haven't noted any handling or wear problems with street driving.
I have read some of the threads/post about lowering and I should of been more specific on what I was looking for and that is I want to have, a meaner/nicer look, not sacrifice ride (too much) and it is a driver (no strip use or road courses) except the WOT I have to get out of my system, lol. I'm still reading and searching for what would be something everybody is happy with and the things people wish they would of done is a big help. I really dont want to have to go back and re-do things. Once and done is my goal. Thanks to everybody who have already giving me feed back.
I spent $600 and purchased what Tokico markets as "The Advanced Handling Package, it consists of 4 lowering springs and 4 Tokico "Blue" HP struts, and I couldn't be happier. It drops the car just right in my opinion, and I didn't need any special camber bolts etc. My buddy that aligned it said it was right on the edge of adjustability, meaning any lower would have needed camber bolts...
springs,ALIGNMENT, Camber bolts, those three are a for sure no matter what! you can go awhile with out a panhard bar ive been lowered for months and just ordered my adj panhard itll be here next monday! but Stuff that can wait would be the shocks and struts and the panhard. Get a alignment or your front tires will be gone in 10k miles i didnt and trust me just get it aligned! Camber bolts are $20 and give you +2 deg. and -2 deg of camber! Shope the classifieds on forums if your on a budget i got my springs for $130 shipped ! Just be on the look out!
Depending on whether you are doing the install yourself or having someone else do it, I would do the struts, shocks and panhard bar to save time and money. If you put springs on the front, you will have to remove the struts anyway. I do agree that the alignment is a necessity.
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Pro 5.0 STS, C&L CAI with D/S and JPC 93 Performance Tune, Steeda UDPs, Metco LCAs, Spohn adjustable UCA, FRPP 4:10, JPC Aluminum D/S, Eibach Pro Kit, Tokico D Specs, P/h bar, Chr VCs, FM 40s, BO Strut Brace, Seq. TLs, SLP LTs, SLP XPipe/high flow cats, Comp Cams Thumprs, JPC Chrome fuel rails, MSD COPs, Prothane Motor Mounts, BBK Chrome Plenum Cover, Boss 304 chrome wheels, BF Goodrich KDWs, 361rwhp
I second owero01...do everything at once to save yourself money. Your gonna find yourself paying the install fee twice if not...unless you plan on installing yourself.
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SALEEN EXTREME CAI - BRENSPEED SCT TUNE - MMR TB SPACER - BBK LONGTUBES - BBK OR X-PIPE - FRPP GT500KR AXLEBACKS - FRPP 3.73s - FR500s - NITTOS....AND SOME OTHER STUFF
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