You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Hold the spindle? I left the spindle connected to the strut. I did not move the steering rack. I was replacing the tie rods and the control arms, so I popped the tie rod out and turned the wheel all the way to the right, while working on the left arm. The bolt will come out, you just have to push on the tie rod boot and wiggle the bolt out.
bolt out, no problem.
[...pic was here...]
Replaced tie rod with moog. I used the credit card between the old tie rod and jam nut trick. Screwed the new one on up to the credit card, then tightened the jam nut. Seems to have worked well at keeping the toe close.
[...pic was here...]
At 45,000 miles my stock tie rod boots were torn all the way around, but the tie rods still felt tightish. Ball joints felt good too, but the stock control arm bushings give a lot compared to the gt500 ones.
I'm about to do exactly the same thing - (Steeda) front LCA and (Steeda) bump-steer kit. Got any tips, tricks or hints for me?
Any special tools? I have an electric impact wrench and a 150-ftlb torque wrench (might not be big enough).
Where can I find instructions for front LCA R&R? (My car is a 2012.)
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
With my experience, the two rack bolts were very hard to get off. My 300 foot pounds impact wrench did not touch them. On the first nut I had a hard time loosening it up with a 3-foot breaker bar. The other bolt I rounded the threads and had to use a chisel hammer to cut the bolt. If I could do it again I would have loosened the tie rods and move the tie rod to get to the bolt see previous posts. Also is would have used a GearWrench 9921 21mm Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench for the 4 nuts on the large bushing. I would of saved a least 1 hour in removing and putting them back on using that wrench. Because you can only get at a 1/8 of a turn each try. I bought new rack bolts and nuts at the dealer. Thay gave me the right bolts, but the nuts threads were wrong, make sure you check them. Last thing, make sure you use some type of lock tight on the old bolts to make sure they do not loosen up.
The rack bolts are removed from above, do not try to remove the nut. You should be able to reach in from the side and over top of the k member to put a ratchet on the bolt, wrench will get in there too.
I went out and bought an impact gun to get the nuts off, when it didn't budge, that was my clue that they're welded to the frame.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor