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installing front control arm (a arm)

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Old 02-22-2010, 08:09 PM   #1
SYNY5TER
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Default installing front control arm (a arm)

well i just got my control arm, because i hav a bent arm right now.

is installing an a arm easy to install or should i let the professionals do it?
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:50 PM   #2
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When we installed new front lower control arms the biggest problem was removing the two bolts that hold the steering rack in place.

It is necessary to move the rack out of the way to get one of the front control arm bolts out.

steps 4 and 5 in this file cover the work

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=61&viewfile=Lower Arm.pdf
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper_08 View Post
When we installed new front lower control arms the biggest problem was removing the two bolts that hold the steering rack in place.

It is necessary to move the rack out of the way to get one of the front control arm bolts out.

steps 4 and 5 in this file cover the work

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=61&viewfile=Lower Arm.pdf
So you have to remove bolt 3 on each side of the steering rack and move it out of the way in order to remove bolt 2? I'm referring to the bolt numbers in the Ford shop manual.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:15 PM   #4
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FAIL!
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Old 02-23-2010, 02:35 PM   #5
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So you have to remove bolt 3 on each side of the steering rack and move it out of the way in order to remove bolt 2? I'm referring to the bolt numbers in the Ford shop manual.
Correct and the two bolt 3's are tough to get at and tight. We got one out the first day and then left it and got the second one out the next day.

My car was only about a month old so they weren't rusted or anything.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:28 PM   #6
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DO NOT REMOVE YOUR STEERING RACK!!!!!! You don't have to.
1. Remove the Tie Rod ends from the spindles.
2. Turn the wheel all the way to one side.
3. Move the tie rod end as for forward(to the front of the car) as possible
4. Wiggle said bolt out of hole.
5 Relish in the time you saved.

Your welcome.
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Last edited by ShawnAlexander; 02-23-2010 at 06:30 PM. Reason: cuz
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnAlexander View Post
DO NOT REMOVE YOUR STEERING RACK!!!!!! You don't have to.
1. Remove the Tie Rod ends from the spindles.
2. Turn the wheel all the way to one side.
3. Move the tie rod end as for forward(to the front of the car) as possible
4. Wiggle said bolt out of hole.
5 Relish in the time you saved.

Your welcome.
What does turning the wheel with the tie rod end removed do for you?
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:49 PM   #8
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It moves the tie rod out of the way so you can remove the front LCA bolt.
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:25 AM   #9
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thank you everybody imma get to this sometime soon. when i hav time to do this and take it to the alignment shop. hope for the better
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:12 PM   #10
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I swapped mine in about 2 hours with breaks. The most difficult part, doing it all by myself, was holding the spindle while trying to relocate the balljoint back in. That spindle is much heavier than it looks!!

I looked over some instructions that showed pics of the steering rack bolts coming out from underneath but they actually come out from above. There was enough room to get a socket up in there so no problem.

I tried moving that tie-rod end as far forward as I could get it and the boot still interfered with bolt removal. The two rack bolts came out easy enough and you just have to move the rack about 1'' to gain clearance so no biggie.
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:46 PM   #11
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Also looking for advice...on a similar but much simpler project
Just adding Steeda G-Trac front lower control arm brace, but so far can't get the OEM lower control arm mounting bolts broke loose
Working on the nut on top where there is no room for breaker bar with deep 1/2" 21mm socket & regular socket will not work due to bolt extending well beyond the nut
From the bottom the bolt has the tab which doesn't leave much room for a socket
Suggestions?
Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:48 PM   #12
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Also looking for advice...on a similar but much simpler project
Just adding Steeda G-Trac front lower control arm brace, but so far can't get the OEM lower control arm mounting bolts broke loose
Working on the nut on top where there is no room for breaker bar with deep 1/2" 21mm socket & regular socket will not work due to bolt extending well beyond the nut
From the bottom the bolt has the tab which doesn't leave much room for a socket
Suggestions?
Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:57 AM   #13
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Go find the longest 21mm combo wrench you can find, preferably with a slight angle on the closed-end so you can get it up in there over the nut and have room to work. You can slide a pipe over the other end for more torque if required.
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lgs SGT View Post
Also looking for advice...on a similar but much simpler project
Just adding Steeda G-Trac front lower control arm brace, but so far can't get the OEM lower control arm mounting bolts broke loose
Working on the nut on top where there is no room for breaker bar with deep 1/2" 21mm socket & regular socket will not work due to bolt extending well beyond the nut
From the bottom the bolt has the tab which doesn't leave much room for a socket
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Air tools. Seriously, if you plan on doing much work on your car, a compressor and a decent impact wrench are invaluable. I also got rid of the metric allen head bolt that Steeda sent with the G-Trac brace and used an SAE grade 8 bolt instead. Can't recall the size off the top of my head, but the SAE size filled the tube better than the metric bolt.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:01 AM   #15
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AirTools.
Just spinning your wheels without them....
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:46 AM   #16
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/What about replacing the control at bolts?
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:25 AM   #17
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I reused the bolts and they've been on/off the car twice but I also check torque specs on all my suspension parts about three times a year. Zero problems so far...

If you're concerned, pick up some new bolts from the dealership.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:11 PM   #18
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I've recently done the job and can confirm getting the steering rack bolts out was a real a bitch. That might have been so because I'm rather impatient with such situations where I have to bust my knuckles for half an hour to get two bolts out. What I eventually did (regrettably AFTER the hassle of getting the bolts out) was taking a BIG breaker bar and shearing the nuts off of the K-member. After filing off the tab welds I reused and properly torqued the nuts.

I also disconnected the steering shaft from the rack. It makes moving around the rack much easier.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:20 PM   #19
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I must be lucky because removing the two rack bolts and rotating the rack away from the K and up gave me plenty of room to remove the LCA bolt. I also have a steeda bumpsteer kit installed so maybe it provides extra clearance.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubrignitz View Post
I swapped mine in about 2 hours with breaks. The most difficult part, doing it all by myself, was holding the spindle while trying to relocate the balljoint back in. That spindle is much heavier than it looks!!
Bumping an old thread! It's what I do.

Hold the spindle? I left the spindle connected to the strut. I did not move the steering rack. I was replacing the tie rods and the control arms, so I popped the tie rod out and turned the wheel all the way to the right, while working on the left arm. The bolt will come out, you just have to push on the tie rod boot and wiggle the bolt out.

bolt out, no problem.
Click the image to open in full size.

Replaced tie rod with moog. I used the credit card between the old tie rod and jam nut trick. Screwed the new one on up to the credit card, then tightened the jam nut. Seems to have worked well at keeping the toe close.
Click the image to open in full size.

At 45,000 miles my stock tie rod boots were torn all the way around, but the tie rods still felt tightish. Ball joints felt good too, but the stock control arm bushings give a lot compared to the gt500 ones.
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Last edited by moosestang; 02-13-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:38 PM
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