Upper Strut Mounts
#11
When I changed out my shocks/struts, I immediately went and got my alignment done. Don't quote me on this because for the life of me I cannot remember 100%, but I think they set me at - 1.25 or -1.20.
For the record, though, I'm running my Goodyear F1 all-seasons until they're bald (not really, but I hope you get the point).
For the record, though, I'm running my Goodyear F1 all-seasons until they're bald (not really, but I hope you get the point).
#12
Instead of starting a new thread, I'm bringing this one back.
My question is: If I go with an adjustable strut mount set-up like the Steeda or J&M, would I need camber bolts as well? Or does the adjustable strut mount come ready to go as is?
From my research, If you go the route of the GT500 strut mount for example which isn't adjustable, you would need the camber bolts (assuming you don't want to re-use stock and want most adjustabilility for alignment).
Is this right??? Just trying to make some decisions and am not 100% sure. Thx
My question is: If I go with an adjustable strut mount set-up like the Steeda or J&M, would I need camber bolts as well? Or does the adjustable strut mount come ready to go as is?
From my research, If you go the route of the GT500 strut mount for example which isn't adjustable, you would need the camber bolts (assuming you don't want to re-use stock and want most adjustabilility for alignment).
Is this right??? Just trying to make some decisions and am not 100% sure. Thx
#13
Instead of starting a new thread, I'm bringing this one back.
My question is: If I go with an adjustable strut mount set-up like the Steeda or J&M, would I need camber bolts as well? Or does the adjustable strut mount come ready to go as is?
From my research, If you go the route of the GT500 strut mount for example which isn't adjustable, you would need the camber bolts (assuming you don't want to re-use stock and want most adjustabilility for alignment).
Is this right??? Just trying to make some decisions and am not 100% sure. Thx
My question is: If I go with an adjustable strut mount set-up like the Steeda or J&M, would I need camber bolts as well? Or does the adjustable strut mount come ready to go as is?
From my research, If you go the route of the GT500 strut mount for example which isn't adjustable, you would need the camber bolts (assuming you don't want to re-use stock and want most adjustabilility for alignment).
Is this right??? Just trying to make some decisions and am not 100% sure. Thx
#15
One more question. For reference I ordered the CDC Foose stallion kit that has been much talked about in this section. Still doing research between adj strut mount and camber bolt.
I watched a video on you tube on the installation of a camber bolt. Do you just need the 1 bolt per side in the upper hole of the front strut? Or do you need 2 bolts per side? (total of 4)
I watched a video on you tube on the installation of a camber bolt. Do you just need the 1 bolt per side in the upper hole of the front strut? Or do you need 2 bolts per side? (total of 4)
#18
Don't forget that the strut to steering knuckle bolts are meant to be one time use.
If you replace the upper strut mount with a camber plate or another mount, you usually take out the strut from the car and you need new bolts anyway.
If you replace the upper strut mount with a camber plate or another mount, you usually take out the strut from the car and you need new bolts anyway.
#19
The advice I've received from Steeda in 06' with my car, since it is lowered just 1", was that on the street, the stock camber with a 1" drop should be fine, and it is not critical to have more negative camber. Anyone?? Thanks, Erik
#20
Well I can tell you that my car was dropped 1"/front and 1.7"/rear with Tein H-Tech springs and I never had it aligned. The camber changed enough that it showed inner tire wear. I've since replaced the springs with Steeda Ultralite springs (wanted stiffer springs) and installed J&M camber plates to correct the camber.