sdonaghey

Hi,



I am going to install my rear Eradispeed Plus 2 rotors with new pads later today and I need some guidance on how to successfully compress the rear caliper. I have the special caliper tool from Harbor Freight and have the right adapter that fits into the groove of the caliper, but for the life of me I cannot get the claiper compressed enough so that the new pads slide over the rotor. It just needs to go in about 1/8-2/8", but it will not budge. I remvoed the e-brake cable from the claiper, but that did not help. Is there any other way. Would opening the bleeder valve help at all? IF I did that would I have to bleed the brakes afterwards?



Sean

Sleeper_08

Opening the bleeder might help but if you are using the tool that pushes against one side of the caliper and then "screws" the piston in then somthing does not sound right as that tool can exert a lot of force.

Is there a possibility that the new pads are too thick?

It is also not a bad idea to bleed afterwards, especially if the pedal is not firm. It also gets rid of any old fluid that may have been over heated.

Norm Peterson

Is the interference between the piston and the little pin on the pad backing plate, or to the pad backing plate proper?

The slots in the piston need to be in a particular orientation, to suit that little pin.

I had a little trouble getting my rear pistons fully compressed, but don't remember exactly what I did. What I do remember is that the tool did take quite a bit of effort (my son-in-law used to be an auto tech, so I used his).

You should have cracked the bleeder and forced the fluid that's in the caliper out of the system instead of pushing the fluid that's in the line back through the ABS. I'd plan on bleeding the brakes for any pad replacement just for that reason. Just to clear the old fluid out of the lines and the ABS unit, no need for a full system flush unless you're adding some better stuff for a track day.


Edit - one last thought - are the rotors the same thickness as OE? IOW, are you sure that you got the right ones? I once had 14" tires shipped to me when the 15" size that I actually ordered was clearly indicated on the invoice . . .


Norm

sdonaghey

Originally I tried just replacing the OE pads with new ones and just kept the OE rotors in place. The pads are for the rears on 05+ Mustang GT's, so I am sure they are correct. The new Baer rotors are correct for the car also. I guess I will just have to try it out again later today.

chrumck

have you bought this set?

If yes, I see no reason for it no to work. I use it constantly.

How much did you manage to compress the caliper already?

sdonaghey

Mine was the slightly older kit in a red box. It would not compress at all. I did not get a chance to try it out today. Maybe Saturday.

RHuckster

Yea, I've got the blue case tool & it worked great.

Rick

chrumck

Ok, I'm affraid you might be trying to do it wrong.

You have to turn the caliper piston clockwise and at the same time push it in. There's a really intricate mechanism inside the piston which allows the e-brake to push on the piston. It's made in such a way that turning alone may not work and pushing alone will never work.

Here are the internals of the caliper to give you a picture of rear caliper's complexity:

6-Speed

To reset the rear piston you have to turn the piston face clock-wise while simultaneously compressing it in against the opposite side of the caliper assembly ... and it can take considerable effort. You cannot just turn the piston and expect it to move back into the cylinder. Install the tool's backing plate and use it to apply force against the opposite side of the caliper by adjusting the collar. Then turn the crank CW a bit to force the piston into the cylinder. As you crank the handle the tool binds up as the piston compresses and you won't be able to turn the piston anymore. You have to release the pressure by adjusting the collar on the tool ... then repeat incrementally until the piston is reset. Take it slow as you don't want to tear the boot on the perimeter of the piston.

6-Speed

As Norm mentioned, once the piston is reset, you have to orient it so the slot on the face is aligned to fit over a small pin on the back of the inboard pad. Here's a link to a write-up I did on rear pad replacement that might help. There's a good video I saw somewhere on Mustang Forums as well.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...rake-pads.html