Advancetrac light on 2011 gt
12-14-2010, 09:45 PM
#11
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Just because the stability control light is coming on, doesn't mean its throwing codes. It most likely won't have any codes at all. If there is a problem with the electronics system, the lights will most likely stay on. A diff problem won't cause any codes to be thrown unless the wrong diff ratio was flashed into the pcm, and the abs is getting confused. Not sure how a diff can be locked too much, unless they accidentally put too many friction disks into the diff when they were building it.
12-14-2010, 10:07 PM
#12
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one last thing. not sure if this has anything to do with any of my problems but this car has a big problem with wheel hop. when i get on it very hard at all, from a stop or anywhere up to about 25-30mph the rear wheels hop like crazy. after i get the advancetrac prob fixed i am hoping a lowering kit/handling pack including stronger lower control arms fixes this issue. it is truely annoying
12-15-2010, 05:37 AM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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It's not lower control arm strength that's of concern - it's the stiffness of the pivot bushings that matters. IOW, don't get sold on "strength vs flimsy appearance" or such. Change them to get the better pivots (poly in one end and a Roto-joint/Johnny joint/rod end/etc., in the other is probably the best street compromise).
Norm
Norm
12-15-2010, 11:56 AM
#14
one last thing. not sure if this has anything to do with any of my problems but this car has a big problem with wheel hop. when i get on it very hard at all, from a stop or anywhere up to about 25-30mph the rear wheels hop like crazy. after i get the advancetrac prob fixed i am hoping a lowering kit/handling pack including stronger lower control arms fixes this issue. it is truely annoying
12-15-2010, 01:48 PM
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 238
To the OP. Taking it to the dealer is the right thing to do. Again, from experience, arrive at service with the light(s) on and don't shut down until somebody has confirmed the indications, just in case they can't duplicate the problem.
Cheers.
Cheers.
12-15-2010, 07:06 PM
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Only a little bit. 
. . . 
I'll stop short of telling people to absolutely never use it, in pretty much the same breath where I recommend that they fully know how to drive without it.
These systems are probably still in their infancy, so maybe it's appropriate to remember a rhyme from a long time ago, about the little girl . . .
Norm
. . . I'll stop short of telling people to absolutely never use it, in pretty much the same breath where I recommend that they fully know how to drive without it.
These systems are probably still in their infancy, so maybe it's appropriate to remember a rhyme from a long time ago, about the little girl . . .
Originally Posted by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
"when she was good, she was very, very good / but when she was bad, she was horrid".
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-15-2010 at 07:08 PM.
12-16-2010, 12:05 AM
#18
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12-16-2010, 12:09 AM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 8
It's not lower control arm strength that's of concern - it's the stiffness of the pivot bushings that matters. IOW, don't get sold on "strength vs flimsy appearance" or such. Change them to get the better pivots (poly in one end and a Roto-joint/Johnny joint/rod end/etc., in the other is probably the best street compromise).
Norm
Norm
12-16-2010, 03:50 AM
#20
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,692
If you are using the car on the street and car about handling then you should follow Norm's suggestion about using poly only on one end. Using poly on both ends causes the poly joints to "bind" as the car rolls and this affects handling.
