Panhard vs Watt's Looking For Detailed Info
#101
I agree. There is a large unused parking lot by my performance shop, and after they were done adjusting my suspension with numerous test runs(dampers,sway bars, bumpsteer) I took a hard drive around and around accelerating as I was cornering over bumps and the car was much more stable as you said in both a hard single turns and harder quicker slalom turns.
With high horsepower, I always need to make it clear to myself that my car grips great in corners and coming out of corners if I'm accelerating gradually out of a turn, but hitting it too hard will always result in a loss of rear control, especially in colder weather. You can't have it both ways. Either you lower the torque and don't have too be so cautious out of turns or while on a curve while boosting, or you side on caution. Erik
With high horsepower, I always need to make it clear to myself that my car grips great in corners and coming out of corners if I'm accelerating gradually out of a turn, but hitting it too hard will always result in a loss of rear control, especially in colder weather. You can't have it both ways. Either you lower the torque and don't have too be so cautious out of turns or while on a curve while boosting, or you side on caution. Erik
#102
It's a shame you can't just quote past responses. Can't believe someone is asking these questions again, with nearly ten pages on this thread and multiple responses to these same questions included therein. Enjoyed reading through this thread and I'm getting closer to plunking down the money for a new suspension setup on my 2012. I have had a couple of big rear end hops while out playing around in this car and I think it's time...before I wreck the damn thing.
Sam, I know you prefer phone contacts, but I'd like to throw my parts list at you via email, if you wouldn't mind having a look. Would that be kosher? No rush, I just bought some pricey bits for one of my bikes, so I won't be able to drop the cash for another week or two, at the earliest.
Sam, I know you prefer phone contacts, but I'd like to throw my parts list at you via email, if you wouldn't mind having a look. Would that be kosher? No rush, I just bought some pricey bits for one of my bikes, so I won't be able to drop the cash for another week or two, at the earliest.
#103
Well, my apologies if my questions were a repeat. Admittedly gave it a quick skim, and didn't see the question I was looking for, but in any case, great follow up information by Whiskey, so thank you very much. Definitely will be getting a Watt's linkage (and FWIW, put the order in on the '13 GT track pack today). Thanks very much all.
#104
Sorry, but not really, for reviving this thread.
It's been almost another year later. Any new comments about which mounting type is better for a WL?
I see Sam now sells a rear diff mounted WL. I'm sure you have first hand experience with all three units you sell. Any consensus on which one is easiest to install, is the quietest, etc?
Any real evidence of failures with these three WL or of the Griggs units?
Thanks.
It's been almost another year later. Any new comments about which mounting type is better for a WL?
I see Sam now sells a rear diff mounted WL. I'm sure you have first hand experience with all three units you sell. Any consensus on which one is easiest to install, is the quietest, etc?
Any real evidence of failures with these three WL or of the Griggs units?
Thanks.
#105
Sorry, but not really, for reviving this thread.
It's been almost another year later. Any new comments about which mounting type is better for a WL?
I see Sam now sells a rear diff mounted WL. I'm sure you have first hand experience with all three units you sell. Any consensus on which one is easiest to install, is the quietest, etc?
Any real evidence of failures with these three WL or of the Griggs units?
Thanks.
It's been almost another year later. Any new comments about which mounting type is better for a WL?
I see Sam now sells a rear diff mounted WL. I'm sure you have first hand experience with all three units you sell. Any consensus on which one is easiest to install, is the quietest, etc?
Any real evidence of failures with these three WL or of the Griggs units?
Thanks.
It does seem considerably "cleaner" in its design, and I'd be curious to hear how often (if at all) it needs to be checked/tightened. I find I need to get up under mine (Fays 2) and snug everything up every few thousand miles which is a bit of a chore, if I'm being honest.
Still not sure I want to go through the expense just to avoid that, but would love to hear from anyone who has experience with both units.
#106
My Techco Watts link is still working fine with pumpkin roll center design and bolt. Now after getting the Whiteline 4 point brace up front, the car corners with no roll whatsoever, but I think my bumpsteer needs to be re-seated, as it is too twitchy at higher speeds.
After adding adjustable caster/camber plates, I'd like to have a great suspension/roadrace shop test drive and re-adjust my whole suspension, a number of times, till it seems ideal for what it could be from their experience, now that I've put everything I want on the car for compliance and chassis stiffening. Erik
After adding adjustable caster/camber plates, I'd like to have a great suspension/roadrace shop test drive and re-adjust my whole suspension, a number of times, till it seems ideal for what it could be from their experience, now that I've put everything I want on the car for compliance and chassis stiffening. Erik
#107
What do the rear RC and axle steer do as the rear suspension rises and falls under braking or throttle?
Do you want the rear portion of the elastic roll moment held relatively fixed and let the rear RCH "float" or fix the RCH and let the rear elastic roll moment be the thing that varies?
How stiff are the rear springs (how much RC and axle steer migration would we actually be looking at)?
Do the LCAs converge? If so, where - in front of or behind the axle (axle steer)?
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 02-06-2013 at 12:01 PM.
#108
I still very much like the Fays2 and find it the best value, and proven . Well proven, lots of RC height adjustment.
If you want something like a Whiteline, fine. I'm frankly tired of the arguments over it. I have my preference, I know why (more than the value fwiw).
If you want something like a Whiteline, fine. I'm frankly tired of the arguments over it. I have my preference, I know why (more than the value fwiw).
#109
A panhard bar(from the name of its suspension engineer that discovered it) induces rear steer, and the watts link doesnt . I once made a reverse watts link, but the arms were too short to work really well, but the car cornered better with the watts link than a panhard bar