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Panhard vs Watt's Looking For Detailed Info

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Old 12-30-2010, 09:04 PM
  #41  
Cowboy01
 
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I finished up the installation of my Steeda Watt's Link today. I only got to drive it about 15 miles today and not very hard, lots of traffic and wet roads. It still felt good.

Thanks for the help with the install; Sam and Don.

Jim
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:18 AM
  #42  
Thevesh
 
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I am using the Steeda watts link for two seasons now. Been racing it hardly on circuits and some hill climbs. The only downside I found is that under lot of stress the mounts on rear end don't hold even if you tighten them as much as you can and the whole watts link moves side to side. I had to fabricate and weld stops to each side. Now it works perfect.

Jan
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:26 AM
  #43  
157dB
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Originally Posted by jsnyng
For my car, it made a huge difference. I also threw a LOT of suspension at my car in one day, so it probably isn't just the Watts Link. My car would get seriously out of shape on the 1-2 shift at WOT prior to the Watts Link. It doesn't anymore. It does it in a straight line. I also got Koni Yellows, LCA's, and a new sway bars when I did the Watts.
Agreed.
The sway bar will help with right side squat more than the watt link
along with the springs and Konis.
Watts are good for dips during high speed cornering to help keep the
rear end centered.
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:01 PM
  #44  
BlackBetty
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I'm glad we can add you list of those that like the Koni's over D-specs... but dude, I don't recall sending you any Koni rears????? I've got plenty of those in stock, just wondering how's come they didn't come from me?
You better be sending some Koni fronts my way. Autocross season is coming!
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:13 PM
  #45  
Import_Slaya
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Originally Posted by Thevesh
I am using the Steeda watts link for two seasons now. Been racing it hardly on circuits and some hill climbs. The only downside I found is that under lot of stress the mounts on rear end don't hold even if you tighten them as much as you can and the whole watts link moves side to side. I had to fabricate and weld stops to each side. Now it works perfect.

Jan
Thanks for the honest feedback on that piece. Their mounts never quite looked "right" to me, but I figured they had sound engineering behind them. For what they are charging, it shouldn't be doing that. Scales tipped towards the Fays2...
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Old 01-01-2011, 12:55 AM
  #46  
FastDEW
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Seems like the best bet would be a Fays2 price and mounts with the Steeda poly ends......

Oh well
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:22 AM
  #47  
'00project
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I briefly read through all the posts, but have you looked at Griggs Racing? I plan on using the watts link from them, along with other suspension parts/kits.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:05 AM
  #48  
sd07gt
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Originally Posted by Import_Slaya
Thanks for the honest feedback on that piece. Their mounts never quite looked "right" to me, but I figured they had sound engineering behind them. For what they are charging, it shouldn't be doing that. Scales tipped towards the Fays2...
The fays will do the same thing ..do your self a favor and get a Griggs unit and be done with it !

The clamps on both units arnt strong enough to do real road racing period without slipping on the axle tubes ..and Auto cross doesnt count for racing either !
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:30 AM
  #49  
Norm Peterson
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The Griggs piece is axle-mounted. I'm not entirely sure why - it should make the handling slightly "looser" under power on corner exit.


Norm
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:43 AM
  #50  
Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by sd07gt
The clamps on both units arnt strong enough to do real road racing period without slipping on the axle tubes ..and Auto cross doesnt count for racing either !
I would think a couple of small tackwelds or small lugs welded to the axle tubes would stop any lateral bracket shift. Getting either design clamp to climb up and over a weld or lug thickness would require a huge amount more lateral load than it takes to get a friction clamp to slide in the presence of vibration and likely FIA curb impact.

The tackwelds might not have to actually weld the clamps to the tubes, meaning that the WL would still be an easily "reversible" modification either for the way class rules are written or in case the car is later sold in more or less OE configuration. Just that they're physically there should be enough.


Thanks - this was worth making me stop and think a little.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-01-2011 at 11:46 AM.
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