FRPP Brake Ducts
#11
Also as the pads get thinner then they provide less insulation and more heats flows through to to calipers and fluid. Thus you run a higher risk of boiling the fluid.
The insulation value of non metallic based pads is higher than the metallic based ones.
It is expensive but I usually replace my Carbotech pads when they get past 1/2 worn.
The insulation value of non metallic based pads is higher than the metallic based ones.
It is expensive but I usually replace my Carbotech pads when they get past 1/2 worn.
#12
I try to run pads down to roughly .125" (~3mm), cheaper that way. With good fluid, frequent bleeds and ducting I haven't had problems. One time I let the rears go down to metal...I was kind of proud of that in a he man sort of way...LOL (who needs stinking brakes anyway). Colin - I would think your Brembos with their bigger heat sinks could easily withstand it.
#13
I try to run pads down to roughly .125" (~3mm), cheaper that way. With good fluid, frequent bleeds and ducting I haven't had problems. One time I let the rears go down to metal...I was kind of proud of that in a he man sort of way...LOL (who needs stinking brakes anyway). Colin - I would think your Brembos with their bigger heat sinks could easily withstand it.
I may try to get a little more adventurous this year
#14
DPE & Sleeper, do you guys run with the stability control on? That could seriously affect rear brake wear. FWIW, I plan to run Traction control "OFF" and Stability Control "ON." I've tried "Sport Mode" on the road, but it seems a bit intrusive.
#15
Only if I happen to forget to turn it off!
#16
I have only run one event in the car, having just gotten it in late February, but I ran in Sport Mode. First couple sessions, no problem as I was feeling the car out and not getting too carried away. Third session I started noticing it during trail braking in particular and decided it was time to turn it off (but you can't unless you are stopped with your foot on the brake, so I ran out the session that way). Fourth session I forgot to turn it off until on track, so I again just ran in Sport Mode but it became consistently annoying. I think in my case it was more the stability control portion getting in the way than the TCS portion. Only one second-gear corner on that track, and I've only got a 4.6L, and I've got 275/40 summer tires, so power oversteer (of the magnitude to summon the TCS system) wasn't a significant issue I don't think other than the one second gear corner where I saw the light flicker a couple times each lap.
I should have tried TCS off, stability on just for something different, but for whatever reason I didn't. Next time at the track I'll probably run a quick warm up session with it in Sport Mode just to get a feel for the track and make sure all is well with the car, and then leave the system shut off the rest of the time. The car is really pretty benign and seems to do what you tell it to. Just have to treat it with a little respect.
In any other car I've had I've always run with any kind of stability or traction control system shut off. But I've never run anything this powerful that wasn't AWD, so it seemed prudent to start with it 'on' in some form.
I should have tried TCS off, stability on just for something different, but for whatever reason I didn't. Next time at the track I'll probably run a quick warm up session with it in Sport Mode just to get a feel for the track and make sure all is well with the car, and then leave the system shut off the rest of the time. The car is really pretty benign and seems to do what you tell it to. Just have to treat it with a little respect.
In any other car I've had I've always run with any kind of stability or traction control system shut off. But I've never run anything this powerful that wasn't AWD, so it seemed prudent to start with it 'on' in some form.
#17
Cheers.
#18
My driving style does seem to be easy on brakes. I try to keep my corner speed up, and at my relatively pathetic talent level that means lighter braking. If I brake late and hard I typically misjudge the corner entry point and screw up the weight transfer to the outside. In any case, I've never had a problem with street pads that I couldn't manage.
I will certainly post an update after my first track day. I'm planning to be at the Mosport DDT this weekend. It's a slow track that's relatively hard on brakes, but not as hard as TMP.
Derf00, with 7350 posts you probably know more about mustangs than I ever will! I'll be more careful next time I order FRPP stuff.
Sleeper, it's amazing that the rears wear at all considering the pitch of the car under braking. The Boss owner supp recommends removing the rear dust cover, have you done that?
I will certainly post an update after my first track day. I'm planning to be at the Mosport DDT this weekend. It's a slow track that's relatively hard on brakes, but not as hard as TMP.
Derf00, with 7350 posts you probably know more about mustangs than I ever will! I'll be more careful next time I order FRPP stuff.
Sleeper, it's amazing that the rears wear at all considering the pitch of the car under braking. The Boss owner supp recommends removing the rear dust cover, have you done that?
#19
I am getting the Brembos this year on the 2011 GT. I am pretty easy on the brakes so don't expect any cooling issues. Like the idea of saying "Brembos" and the looks. Up in the air on the cooling hoses though.
Did I not read somewhere that the right side CS/GT cooling hose runs close to some part of the engine (air conditioning condenser?) and therefore, the right rotor actually runs considerable hotter than the left? His contention was that the hoses were not suitable for the new car. Anyone here have any input or can check it out next track day realizing that I assume everyone runs with the air off? Might make difference on the street.
Cheers.
Did I not read somewhere that the right side CS/GT cooling hose runs close to some part of the engine (air conditioning condenser?) and therefore, the right rotor actually runs considerable hotter than the left? His contention was that the hoses were not suitable for the new car. Anyone here have any input or can check it out next track day realizing that I assume everyone runs with the air off? Might make difference on the street.
Cheers.
#20
I am getting the Brembos this year on the 2011 GT. I am pretty easy on the brakes so don't expect any cooling issues. Like the idea of saying "Brembos" and the looks. Up in the air on the cooling hoses though.
Did I not read somewhere that the right side CS/GT cooling hose runs close to some part of the engine (air conditioning condenser?) and therefore, the right rotor actually runs considerable hotter than the left? His contention was that the hoses were not suitable for the new car. Anyone here have any input or can check it out next track day realizing that I assume everyone runs with the air off? Might make difference on the street.
Cheers.
Did I not read somewhere that the right side CS/GT cooling hose runs close to some part of the engine (air conditioning condenser?) and therefore, the right rotor actually runs considerable hotter than the left? His contention was that the hoses were not suitable for the new car. Anyone here have any input or can check it out next track day realizing that I assume everyone runs with the air off? Might make difference on the street.
Cheers.