Norm Peterson

That does change the sequence some. If you're OK for a little while with car rake that might look a bit, ummm, unusual (and come with a likely sacrifice in handling), you could do the front springs & struts separately from the rear springs/shocks/WL. I'd probably do the front first in that case, which would let you postpone the WL expense. Sta-bars would be left as a completely separate mod if/when you decide to do them.


Have you done enough measuring to know whether the tires will clear after lowering even if the axle gets centered perfectly with respect to the right and left side sheetmetal? Will there be enough clearance around the shoulders of the tires up at the inside and outside tops of the wheel wells to allow some reasonable combination of cornering roll plus a little suspension bump travel? Sorry, I don't have much "feel" for how much room is left with a 305 tire of unknown profile on rims of unknown width and offset.


Norm

Ford_Dude

well if its a case of centering due to lowering while yes the watts link will do that great a cheaper fix is an adj-panhard

though I dothink the watts link is the better fix as the adj-panhard just corrects for the lowering and the watts keeps it centered through full travel

908ssp

I like the Techco design except for the none adjustable rods. Saleen might be coming out with an improved design since they stopped Techco from making theirs. I just don't like adding a bunch of weight to the axle with the clamp on systems. The pivot on the diff doesn't add as much unsprung weight as the clamp style. I made my own Watts link using a lot of aluminum, titanium and adjustable rods with one poly bushing. I can hear a bit more gear whine then before but only at certain speeds. The diff cover looks heavy but it is no heavier than most of the reinforced aluminum covers.

candymanjl

Originally I was looking at the BMR adjustable panhard bar then I could lower it and have things mostly centered. Ideally I'll buy things right once and then just do one install.

candymanjl

I'm running 18x9.5 +38mm wheels all around, 275-40-18's in the front, 305-35-18's in the rear. It's tight but it should be fine with the rear travel.

Maybe I'll look into the front and rear adjustable coilovers first and keep the ride height stock for now. Then the suspension geometry shouldn't change much. When I save up for the other parts then I can lower the car.

candymanjl

Nice! Looks very good for something you made yourself!

Sam Strano

I should point out that the net weight gain of a Fays2 (and a Steeda is very slightly lighter) vs. the stock PHB and PHB brace is on the order of 15-17 pounds. In fact a Fays2 boxed and shipped with all the hardware, packing, etc. is just under 30 pounds in total.

One reason I prefer the Fays2 and Steeda... the roll center is adjustable. Another is that I don't want the diff cover and it's little bolts constraining the lateral forces of the entire back end of the car.

Really, if you look at the two setups, the one 908ssp likes and the one I do, you'll see both use a very similar propeller and arms. But the Fays2 and Steeda don't require thicker diff covers (which makes shedding heat more on an issue, and again allow you adjustable roll center heights, easily done as well.

908ssp

I don't SELL watts links. You want the best buy Griggs. http://www.griggsracing.com/product_...be3cc122a4d785

Sam Strano

Guess I must be wrong since I sell parts. Ooops. But Griggs isn't, even though they sell parts. Hmmmm, double standard?

BTW, which one do you have 908ssp? And feel free to enlighten us on what makes the Griggs superior. Please. I manage to pull the same g number out of a S197 on the same Hoosier A6 tires they do (sometimes more) on smaller rims, in heavier cars, for a lot less money. I saw spikes of 1.5 and sustained G for over 1 second of over 1.3 G last month at a ProSolo in Michigan in my '11 on 315 A6's on 10.5" wheels with "basic" mods. Koni's, H&R Race springs, Strano bars, and a Fays2 Watts link. In fact with those mods I run Super Stock times. That's Lotus Elise, Grand Sport and Z06 Corvette territory. What crap it must be!

Edit to add a few thoughts:

I compete to win. I won't run crap that doesn't work on my car. I value a dollar as much as the next guy, and a Fays2 is the best bang for the buck there is in a Watts link. It does what it is supposed to, and works.

Sleeper_08

And that is why I am running one.