What would 'Step 2' be for a leaky axle?
#1
What would 'Step 2' be for a leaky axle?
Took my 2010 GT to the road course back in April. I'm an experienced driver, but didn't get to crazy as it was my first time out in this particular car. Had fun, got home, and noted fluid around the rear diff. Apparently a known problem, it leaks from that little pressure relief metal cap thing on top of the axle on the passenger side.
So I did a little research and the TSB-related fix is the little turkey-baster looking deal to replace the metal spring cap. Did so. Have sadly not been back to the track since, but did install Konis a few nights ago and had to test them out. We suddenly have several roundabouts here right by my house, so needless to say I experimented with the balance and breakaway characteristics of the car with the new shocks late in the evening when no one was around.
Just noticed tonight that once again, my axle has the drips. All on one side; the right side of course given I took a few laps in the roundabouts (which turn left). Clearly it came out of the plastic valve atop the turkey baster, as you could see where it ran down the side of it.
So I guess the question is, what's next? Do I need to make a catch-can? Could it be my diff was a bit overfilled from the factory and eventually I'll purge the excess out without harming anything? I did check the level cold after the issues on track, and it was within a couple mm of the filler hole so I didn't add any. May need to check again I suppose.
I don't feel a diff cooler would solve this issue; it was a 70 degree night and I wasn't tearing it up for 30 minutes, just playing around for maybe 5. And not a continuous 5 minutes of tire-spinning hooning. I understand if a little gets past on a hot track day, and would accept that, but this is clearly not acceptable as-is. After all, those roundabouts will always be there, and I'm not going to be able to restrain myself every time I go through them .
Oh, and the car has no power mods of any kind, and the only suspension mods are GT500 wheels and tires, Koni Sports, and Steeda HD mounts up front. Given that, I have to believe several others have had this problem, but in searching briefly I didn't see anything past the turkey baster and one fellow with a gatorade bottle catch can (rather avoid that, but if I've got to, I will).
So I did a little research and the TSB-related fix is the little turkey-baster looking deal to replace the metal spring cap. Did so. Have sadly not been back to the track since, but did install Konis a few nights ago and had to test them out. We suddenly have several roundabouts here right by my house, so needless to say I experimented with the balance and breakaway characteristics of the car with the new shocks late in the evening when no one was around.
Just noticed tonight that once again, my axle has the drips. All on one side; the right side of course given I took a few laps in the roundabouts (which turn left). Clearly it came out of the plastic valve atop the turkey baster, as you could see where it ran down the side of it.
So I guess the question is, what's next? Do I need to make a catch-can? Could it be my diff was a bit overfilled from the factory and eventually I'll purge the excess out without harming anything? I did check the level cold after the issues on track, and it was within a couple mm of the filler hole so I didn't add any. May need to check again I suppose.
I don't feel a diff cooler would solve this issue; it was a 70 degree night and I wasn't tearing it up for 30 minutes, just playing around for maybe 5. And not a continuous 5 minutes of tire-spinning hooning. I understand if a little gets past on a hot track day, and would accept that, but this is clearly not acceptable as-is. After all, those roundabouts will always be there, and I'm not going to be able to restrain myself every time I go through them .
Oh, and the car has no power mods of any kind, and the only suspension mods are GT500 wheels and tires, Koni Sports, and Steeda HD mounts up front. Given that, I have to believe several others have had this problem, but in searching briefly I didn't see anything past the turkey baster and one fellow with a gatorade bottle catch can (rather avoid that, but if I've got to, I will).
#5
Also have a look at the KR catch can. You can fabricate something similar, if they're no longer available. They mount on the body, above the axle.
KR AXLE RESERVOIR
KR AXLE RESERVOIR
Last edited by oldlugs; 08-17-2011 at 12:10 AM. Reason: added link
#6
I've got a gatorade bottle in place for a track day this weekend if it proves necessary; I'll run the turkey baster for now and if I need to swap at the track I've got my fitting, hose and zip ties all ready.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
#7
this happened to me the 1st (and so far only ) time i ran a road course, and i was told that it might have just been overfill coming out of the axle. the guy wasnt a mustang specific mechanic tho so i could be wrong
#8
I've got a gatorade bottle in place for a track day this weekend if it proves necessary; I'll run the turkey baster for now and if I need to swap at the track I've got my fitting, hose and zip ties all ready.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
The KR catch can above ^ was only installed on '08-'09 KRs.
If you want a less expensive aluminum diff cover, then the KR style can be had from your local Ford dealer. They're actually an Explorer diff cover that's been modified.
Anyway, it's pretty normal for some oil to spew from the vent when cornering hard. My '08 Bullitt still spews a bit. It slows the axle tube rusting. I'll put a KR diff cover and catch can on it, eventually.
#9
I have indeed installed the Boss/GT500 cover on my car. I bought the kit (includes the breather and ARP bolts) and a Lubelocker 8.8" Ford gasket from LMR. That might be important here - it looks a bit like they make the kit up out of Ford Parts Counter parts rather than buying it from Ford Racing. Simple install. I installed the breather at the top of the cover but I also left the turkey baster in place (I didn't have a suitable plug). I've noticed that it's starting to melt, so I'm going to see if I can find a proper plug for the hole. The vent at the top of the cover is the same as the original vent on the axle tube, and mine hasn't leaked, although that could be because the turkey baster's doing all the work. In any case, I have no leaks, and that's the bottom line.
In an OT but related matter, the Boss/GT500 cover is a tight fit with the Fays2 Watts Link, but it clears. You have to pull the Fays2 center pivot bolt and lower the propeller if you want to remove the diff cover.
In an OT but related matter, the Boss/GT500 cover is a tight fit with the Fays2 Watts Link, but it clears. You have to pull the Fays2 center pivot bolt and lower the propeller if you want to remove the diff cover.
I've got a gatorade bottle in place for a track day this weekend if it proves necessary; I'll run the turkey baster for now and if I need to swap at the track I've got my fitting, hose and zip ties all ready.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
JAJ (or anyone), question on the GT500 diff cover (M-4033-K). Have you actually done this? Reason I ask is I spoke to a guy with a Boss and he said his vent was still on the axle and he had to do the turkey baster. So is this only OEM on the GT500? I guess I need confirmation before spending $150 on a diff cover and new fluid that yes, it fixes the problem of gear oil escaping, and yes, you then just plug the hole in your axle, screw the vent into roughly the top of the new diff cover, and you're done.
Last edited by JAJ; 08-25-2011 at 07:32 PM.