Installing springs?
#1
Installing springs?
I plan on installing new springs this weekend. Will I be able to do it without an impact wrench? Will I be able to get by with just a breaker bar? I've also been debating about getting a torque wrench. This is the only project I have planned for the car that would require one. Will I be ok just tightening things up as much as I can? Or maybe instead of buying one I can get a loaner from Advance Auto but they only have the needle kind not the electronic one.
#2
If you can, try to torque the fasteners according to the specs. You will also need to rent a spring compressor - at least that's what I did. makes it much easier and safer. You also need certain size sockets too, so you should have those handy. I believe there are installation instructions out there that provide a list of tools and sockets you need. Lastly, be sure when you raise your car it is safely secured on jack stands and won't fall on you.
#4
Buy a torque wrench and treasure it. It will give you peace of mind like you have never known before. You don't need a digital torque wrench either, analog does just fine. Not like you can be that accurate anyways. When you set a digi to 50lbs it's really more like 48-52 lbs than 50lbs on the dot.
#5
I used the Maximum Motorsports tool #MMT-8 for $15. It worked a lot easier than a spring compressor.
But the rest of the info is golden. +1 on the good jack stands and floor jack. I used heavy zip ties to hold everything out of harms way while working on the springs, these were quick & easy.
Make sure that the front spring is positioned properly in the Lower Control Arm pocket, this is easy to screw up.
But the rest of the info is golden. +1 on the good jack stands and floor jack. I used heavy zip ties to hold everything out of harms way while working on the springs, these were quick & easy.
Make sure that the front spring is positioned properly in the Lower Control Arm pocket, this is easy to screw up.
#6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtczXhVnPvs
Get your toe checked after your install
as lowering toes the tires out of whack.
And enjoy the excessive camber you will now have.
As well as the increased bump steer.
And the uneven tire wear.
Lowered spindles ForTheWin.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM springs
or OEM steering geometry. Until you install
so called "lowering springs". I call them
tire wasters. More S197s are screwed up
by their uninformed owners with lowering springs.
They sure look cool, but the handling really suffers.
You just want the front end lowered, not
screwed up steering geometry.
Anyone can install springs. But few can follow up with
the needed items for a proper install for said 'springs'.
Get your toe checked after your install
as lowering toes the tires out of whack.
And enjoy the excessive camber you will now have.
As well as the increased bump steer.
And the uneven tire wear.
Lowered spindles ForTheWin.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM springs
or OEM steering geometry. Until you install
so called "lowering springs". I call them
tire wasters. More S197s are screwed up
by their uninformed owners with lowering springs.
They sure look cool, but the handling really suffers.
You just want the front end lowered, not
screwed up steering geometry.
Anyone can install springs. But few can follow up with
the needed items for a proper install for said 'springs'.
Last edited by 157dB; 02-18-2012 at 01:44 PM.
#7
157dB - you think -1.5 degrees of camber is excessive? Ford disagrees (max allowable camber for in factory specs is -1.5 degrees which is about where most drops put you in give or take .3 of a degree). You think having a lowered CG and stiffer spring rates to control body roll is bad?
There are only a few necessary items for lowering an s197 properly and most springs are mild drops and very low rates by most peoples tastes:
Springs
Shocks/struts (not required but highly recommended)
New strut tops
Adjustable PHB
A good alignment for toe
Take Steeda's sport springs, mild drop (1" front 1.5" rear), good spring rates for a dd/spirited driver/autocross toy (I don't remember the rates off the top of my head...). That drop isn't enough to cause huge issues with bumpsteer, excessive camber (depending on driving style), excessive rear LCA angle change or pinion angle change, and its not enough to need taller ball joints to fix the front LCA angle. Can you? Certainly. Are you going to have a poor handling car without doing that? Hardly!
If anyone can prove that point Sam can, Koni sports, Steeda sport springs, fays2 watts link, steeda hd mounts, steeda comp UCA and mount, and some sticky A6 tires (I'm sure some of that is wrong, but its dang close) lead him to more than a few victories at various autocross events.
Heck, even Shelby uses the FRPP handling pack which includes those devil tire killing lowering springs with a similiar drop to the Steeda Sports and they areractically an overdog in F-stock in autocross.
There are only a few necessary items for lowering an s197 properly and most springs are mild drops and very low rates by most peoples tastes:
Springs
Shocks/struts (not required but highly recommended)
New strut tops
Adjustable PHB
A good alignment for toe
Take Steeda's sport springs, mild drop (1" front 1.5" rear), good spring rates for a dd/spirited driver/autocross toy (I don't remember the rates off the top of my head...). That drop isn't enough to cause huge issues with bumpsteer, excessive camber (depending on driving style), excessive rear LCA angle change or pinion angle change, and its not enough to need taller ball joints to fix the front LCA angle. Can you? Certainly. Are you going to have a poor handling car without doing that? Hardly!
If anyone can prove that point Sam can, Koni sports, Steeda sport springs, fays2 watts link, steeda hd mounts, steeda comp UCA and mount, and some sticky A6 tires (I'm sure some of that is wrong, but its dang close) lead him to more than a few victories at various autocross events.
Heck, even Shelby uses the FRPP handling pack which includes those devil tire killing lowering springs with a similiar drop to the Steeda Sports and they areractically an overdog in F-stock in autocross.
#8
Get your toe checked after your install
as lowering toes the tires out of whack.
And enjoy the excessive camber you will now have.
As well as the increased bump steer.
And the uneven tire wear.
Lowered spindles ForTheWin.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM springs
or OEM steering geometry. Until you install
so called "lowering springs". I call them
tire wasters. More S197s are screwed up
by their uninformed owners with lowering springs.
They sure look cool, but the handling really suffers.
You just want the front end lowered, not
screwed up steering geometry.
Anyone can install springs. But few can follow up with
the needed items for a proper install for said 'springs'.
as lowering toes the tires out of whack.
And enjoy the excessive camber you will now have.
As well as the increased bump steer.
And the uneven tire wear.
Lowered spindles ForTheWin.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM springs
or OEM steering geometry. Until you install
so called "lowering springs". I call them
tire wasters. More S197s are screwed up
by their uninformed owners with lowering springs.
They sure look cool, but the handling really suffers.
You just want the front end lowered, not
screwed up steering geometry.
Anyone can install springs. But few can follow up with
the needed items for a proper install for said 'springs'.
#9
If you can, try to torque the fasteners according to the specs. You will also need to rent a spring compressor - at least that's what I did. makes it much easier and safer. You also need certain size sockets too, so you should have those handy. I believe there are installation instructions out there that provide a list of tools and sockets you need. Lastly, be sure when you raise your car it is safely secured on jack stands and won't fall on you.
#10
I have jack stands, floor jack, and the 10, 13, 15, 18 and 21mm sockets that are needed. I've done plenty of work on cars thru my years but have never done the springs before. I have a few links bookmarked with good instructions on it. Just wasn't sure if a breaker bar would break lose the 13mm nuts from the bottom of the struts to the spindle. I'll be doing this Sunday morning and should have pics up Sunday night.