tenfifteen

Hello all, I've done a bit of reading here in a few threads already, apologies in advance if I missed obvious point of information.

Anyway, haven't yet got it but a '13 GT is all but on its ordered and is replacing a 2006 M3 that rode on coilovers with a fairly substantial drop since I got it in early '08 (system is a TC Kline S/A on 500# springs front and rear, 13.5" height in front, 13.0" in rear, more or less a standard street/track setup for the E46 M3). Pic of the car to give you some indication of what I'm talking about: (link).

Anyhow, I'm not scared off by the LRA or anything, but while I'm aware there are trade offs relative to an IRS, I'd like to mitigate the negatives to the maximum extent possible.

Don't think I'll be tracking the car, but I would like a fairly substantial drop, the flexibility of coilovers, and believe I'd also be getting Watts links based on my reading. Stiff ride is not really a key concern, but I'm also not looking for max track performance either.

I guess what I'm hoping for is that someone can point to a "kit" or even a "buy all of this" parts list of what I'll need to set the car up with the above in mind. If there's a thread to redirect me to, feel free and again, my apologies if I didn't search well enough to find a better answer.

Thanks in advance!

Argonaut

Nice looking M3!

Don't get to hung up on the notion that you have to have Coilovers, there is nothing magic about them. What you are asking for is a) a drop in the ride height and b) improved damping control. You can get both of those without coilovers. The advantages coilovers give you is ability to fine tune ride height and corner balance and wider variety of spring rates. Doesn't sound like you need corner balancing and, once you have set the ride height on coilovers (lets say an inch drop) then typically you never touch them again (so why not just get 1" drop springs?). The drawback is they cost a lot more. And keep in mind that a quality "standard" set of springs and dampers will beat a lousy coilover package every day of the week.

Given what you've stated I'd go with a set of adjustable Koni dampers and 1" drop springs (Eibach, Steeda, etc...take your pick based on how stiff you want them). In general you don't want > 1" of drop as it starts negatively affecting the handling (there will be guys who claim it doesn't but there are reasons we don't see hugely lowered stangs on the race tracks). If you don't get a Watts link then you'd probably need an adjustable pan hard bar as well to re-center the rear axle after the installation of lowering springs.

HTH

Ansibe

Your m3 does look great. I'm one of the converted who switched from an m3 (e92 in my case) to a new Mustang. I'm very happy with mine, and won't be going back any time soon. I bought my mustang for track use and as a DD.

The most surprising things about the coyote Mustangs are that awesome motor, the transmission, and the seats. I have not experienced a better engine, or worse seats. I would spend the extra on the recaros.

My m3 was stock, and the suspension was sublime. Great wheel control on and off the track, and comfortable as well. You can approach that with a 1" drop and koni yellows, but bumps and corners still don't mix. The watts link might help, but I haven't tried one yet. Adjustable panhard bars are pretty cheap, but my car looks fine with the OE bar. The wheels are a bit off center, but that just means you'll corner better one way than the other! I wouldn't buy one until you've seen the offset, and find it offensive (They're easy to install). I agree with Argo, almost nobody takes advantage of coil-overs - set and forget is the norm. If you're not actively corner weighting your car, why bother?

Here's what I bought, and would recommend:
Steeda sport springs (get these from Sam Strano, his are straight rate)
Steeda upper strut mounts
Koni yellows

I also run a 285/35-19 out back, on 9.5" inch wheels. With these tires and -1.5 camber the car is pretty well balanced. If your going to use the OE 255 rears, you may want to go with -1 camber. I found mine a bit "over-steery" at -1.5, which I had to dial out with tire pressure and shock settings.

Here's something that'll make you happy: I had to replace the front brakes on my m3 and it cost me $2000. Brembo discs for the Mustang are $130 each.

UPRSharad

H&R, KW, and Eibach all make some nice DA coilovers in the $2000 +/- range.

If you go pretty stiff with the dampening & spring rates, you might consider a strut tower brace, but some of the high end S197 racecars don't run them. It is not a flimsy chassis.

Steeda's Watts link is nice. I don't have personal experience with the Fays2 or others.

Of course, I'm partial to UPR Products rear control arms. They add a noticeable amount of traction and eliminate wheelhop.

We carry Eibach swaybars, which make for a very noticeable improvement in cornering as well. We also manufacture heavy duty swaybar endlinks, since the factory ones are not so hot.

Every part we manufacture is Made in America, carries a Lifetime Guarantee, and MF.com members get a 10% discount on them.

moochman4life

Yep, after seeing a few FR500's firsthand run at the track withOUT them, I decided to pull mine off. Don't need the extra weight.

tenfifteen

Lots of great info/insight, thanks everyone. In fact, I have never touched the coilovers in my car; previous owner set them before I got it, and even running winter setup (18s) I haven't adjusted the height.

Ansibe, I especially appreciate the M3-to-Mustang perspective. I love the car (even down 80hp to the S65), but I want to get rid of it while I still love it and before it starts costing an arm and a leg to repair/maintain. It's been problem free to this point, but those $800 valve adjustments and $100 oil changes (even DIY) are hard to take.