Camber and toe in questions
#1
Camber and toe in questions
I printed off the factory specs for caster and toe in. It says on Camber -0.75+- 0.75, with the same for the right side. Then it says Total/Split 0 +- 0.75. Does that mean that the factory spec for each side can be anywhere from positive 0.75 to negative 1.5?
Also, it's going to be a few days until I can get an alignment. Will it hurt my tires to drive a couple of hundred miles in the meantime? I'm installed Steeda Sports and Konis with Steeda HD plates. I think I've got camber set at less than -1 on each side but have not checked the toe. Seems to track pretty good though.
Also, it's going to be a few days until I can get an alignment. Will it hurt my tires to drive a couple of hundred miles in the meantime? I'm installed Steeda Sports and Konis with Steeda HD plates. I think I've got camber set at less than -1 on each side but have not checked the toe. Seems to track pretty good though.
#3
I think maximum camber spec is -1.5.
I have the same setup as you and had mine aligned to -1.5 camber, with caster and toe "in spec." No, I don't know exactly what that means, but I'm happy with the way the car tracks - it's very stable. I should have asked for all the alignment specs, but I was only concerned about camber. My bad. I got nasty shoulder wear on my OE PZeros, could that be too much toe?
With the OE rubber, I found my car a little too loose with this alignment, tires at 42/42 (hot), and the Konis at 2 turns out, front and back. I compensated by setting the back 1/2 turn softer than the front, and my tires pressures at 42/41 f/b hot. I now run the 285/255 setup from the GT500, and the car is balanced with the tires and shocks set the same front and back.
If I revert to a square setup, I'll probably use -1.2 for camber.
I have the same setup as you and had mine aligned to -1.5 camber, with caster and toe "in spec." No, I don't know exactly what that means, but I'm happy with the way the car tracks - it's very stable. I should have asked for all the alignment specs, but I was only concerned about camber. My bad. I got nasty shoulder wear on my OE PZeros, could that be too much toe?
With the OE rubber, I found my car a little too loose with this alignment, tires at 42/42 (hot), and the Konis at 2 turns out, front and back. I compensated by setting the back 1/2 turn softer than the front, and my tires pressures at 42/41 f/b hot. I now run the 285/255 setup from the GT500, and the car is balanced with the tires and shocks set the same front and back.
If I revert to a square setup, I'll probably use -1.2 for camber.
#4
I think maximum camber spec is -1.5.
I have the same setup as you and had mine aligned to -1.5 camber, with caster and toe "in spec." No, I don't know exactly what that means, but I'm happy with the way the car tracks - it's very stable. I should have asked for all the alignment specs, but I was only concerned about camber. My bad. I got nasty shoulder wear on my OE PZeros, could that be too much toe?
With the OE rubber, I found my car a little too loose with this alignment, tires at 42/42 (hot), and the Konis at 2 turns out, front and back. I compensated by setting the back 1/2 turn softer than the front, and my tires pressures at 42/41 f/b hot. I now run the 285/255 setup from the GT500, and the car is balanced with the tires and shocks set the same front and back.
If I revert to a square setup, I'll probably use -1.2 for camber.
I have the same setup as you and had mine aligned to -1.5 camber, with caster and toe "in spec." No, I don't know exactly what that means, but I'm happy with the way the car tracks - it's very stable. I should have asked for all the alignment specs, but I was only concerned about camber. My bad. I got nasty shoulder wear on my OE PZeros, could that be too much toe?
With the OE rubber, I found my car a little too loose with this alignment, tires at 42/42 (hot), and the Konis at 2 turns out, front and back. I compensated by setting the back 1/2 turn softer than the front, and my tires pressures at 42/41 f/b hot. I now run the 285/255 setup from the GT500, and the car is balanced with the tires and shocks set the same front and back.
If I revert to a square setup, I'll probably use -1.2 for camber.
#5
I printed off the factory specs for caster and toe in. It says on Camber -0.75+- 0.75, with the same for the right side. Then it says Total/Split 0 +- 0.75. Does that mean that the factory spec for each side can be anywhere from positive 0.75 to negative 1.5?
Also, it's going to be a few days until I can get an alignment. Will it hurt my tires to drive a couple of hundred miles in the meantime? I'm installed Steeda Sports and Konis with Steeda HD plates. I think I've got camber set at less than -1 on each side but have not checked the toe. Seems to track pretty good though.
Also, it's going to be a few days until I can get an alignment. Will it hurt my tires to drive a couple of hundred miles in the meantime? I'm installed Steeda Sports and Konis with Steeda HD plates. I think I've got camber set at less than -1 on each side but have not checked the toe. Seems to track pretty good though.
My Camber is at -1.6º, neutral toe and +7.5 Caster and at the autocross today understeer was non-existent today at the Lincoln Air Park Nationals Site. I'm running:
Tokico D-Specs (2 out from hard in front and 5 in the rear)
Steeda Sports
Steeda HD mounts
Fays 2 Watts link (2nd from bottom hole)
Strano 35mm front bar at full stiff
Strano 25mm rear bar in middle position
245/45/18 Dunlop Star Specs (PSI: 31F/32R)
Like I said, the understeer basically didn't exist. I had two places where I saw understeer: A decreasing radius sweeper at the end of a slalom where you had the choice on which side to start on. I ran the side that put me on the inside of the sweeper. With the speed I had it would carry me wide with a small, very very small amount of understeer. The other was a sharp left hand corner where the front just didn't want to turn. No idea what happened but it required enough brakes to toss the run (slowest run of the day for me).
As for needing the alignment right away, you should be fine. I ran a full week of daily driving with mine unchecked. My toe came out neutral though from the drop, camber was -2.0 on the right and -1.6 on the left. I drove about 150 miles that way. Shouldn't hurt anything unless the front is obviously toed out too far.
#6
Looks good so far, but I only have 2 track days on them. The GY F1s seem to need more heat in them than the OE Pirellis. I was out yesterday at a slow track, and was sliding all over the place with cold tires. Not too much squealing, just sliding. When they're hot they seem to grip well.
FWIW, I liked the way the car felt when it slid. Quite balanced on neutral throttle, understeer off throttle (esp when the tires were very cold), and nice controllable oversteer on the gas. My preference for mustang is to understeer. With 410 Hp, oversteer is just a squeeze of the throttle away!
FWIW, I liked the way the car felt when it slid. Quite balanced on neutral throttle, understeer off throttle (esp when the tires were very cold), and nice controllable oversteer on the gas. My preference for mustang is to understeer. With 410 Hp, oversteer is just a squeeze of the throttle away!
#7
The factory specs for Camber are 0º to -1.5º and toe from 0 to .20º Toe IN Caster should be +7.2 to +7.5.
My Camber is at -1.6º, neutral toe and +7.5 Caster and at the autocross today understeer was non-existent today at the Lincoln Air Park Nationals Site. I'm running:
Tokico D-Specs (2 out from hard in front and 5 in the rear)
Steeda Sports
Steeda HD mounts
Fays 2 Watts link (2nd from bottom hole)
Strano 35mm front bar at full stiff
Strano 25mm rear bar in middle position
245/45/18 Dunlop Star Specs (PSI: 31F/32R)
Like I said, the understeer basically didn't exist. I had two places where I saw understeer: A decreasing radius sweeper at the end of a slalom where you had the choice on which side to start on. I ran the side that put me on the inside of the sweeper. With the speed I had it would carry me wide with a small, very very small amount of understeer. The other was a sharp left hand corner where the front just didn't want to turn. No idea what happened but it required enough brakes to toss the run (slowest run of the day for me).
As for needing the alignment right away, you should be fine. I ran a full week of daily driving with mine unchecked. My toe came out neutral though from the drop, camber was -2.0 on the right and -1.6 on the left. I drove about 150 miles that way. Shouldn't hurt anything unless the front is obviously toed out too far.
My Camber is at -1.6º, neutral toe and +7.5 Caster and at the autocross today understeer was non-existent today at the Lincoln Air Park Nationals Site. I'm running:
Tokico D-Specs (2 out from hard in front and 5 in the rear)
Steeda Sports
Steeda HD mounts
Fays 2 Watts link (2nd from bottom hole)
Strano 35mm front bar at full stiff
Strano 25mm rear bar in middle position
245/45/18 Dunlop Star Specs (PSI: 31F/32R)
Like I said, the understeer basically didn't exist. I had two places where I saw understeer: A decreasing radius sweeper at the end of a slalom where you had the choice on which side to start on. I ran the side that put me on the inside of the sweeper. With the speed I had it would carry me wide with a small, very very small amount of understeer. The other was a sharp left hand corner where the front just didn't want to turn. No idea what happened but it required enough brakes to toss the run (slowest run of the day for me).
As for needing the alignment right away, you should be fine. I ran a full week of daily driving with mine unchecked. My toe came out neutral though from the drop, camber was -2.0 on the right and -1.6 on the left. I drove about 150 miles that way. Shouldn't hurt anything unless the front is obviously toed out too far.
#8
Alignment scheduled for Friday. Debating on how agreesive to go. I measured -1.18 camber as is and you can see the lean in of the tires. Of courses now that I've installed sticky tires, it's turned cold again.
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09-28-2015 07:03 AM