Eibach Pro-System-Plus Kit Info? Help?
#21
They aren't magic. A rear bar on a stick-axle car should never be considered as anything more than the final fine-tuning handling balance tweak. Truth is, street-intended rear sta-bars on any solid axle car don't reduce roll by enough to matter.
I have read several places that the STB is not really helpful on the S197's and I can certainly see it being a hardly noticeable difference. Just my experience but it did seem to help the vert.
There is also the perception issue. A STB will change the way the car's structure vibrates, which will provide a feeling of greater stiffness simply because you don't feel all the little vibrations quite as much. That can happen without the overall chassis stiffnesses taken between the front and rear suspension mounting points increasing much at all.
Dampers really are the items most in need of upgrade. As far as adjustables go, it's not that you have to keep tinkering with them in order to justify buying them. It's that you can tweak them and put them at the best settings for you, which you obviously can't do with non-adjustables. Once you've done that, stop.
That said, you can also develop two or more sets of settings for specific purposes and swap between/among them. Don't overlook the benefit in being able to dial them softer than your usual setting for when you or a passenger really needs or wants a softer ride.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 06-11-2012 at 06:56 AM.
#22
Next time around, NT05's would probably help, as would 18x9.5 or 18x10 wheels if your wheels aren't that wide already. No stagger, please.
Norm
#23
I am still amazed for the price at the amount of grip the Sumitomo HTRZ III's summer's have, it gets close to Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's for half of the price. I read a pretty post about old track fox body's running without a rear sway bar to reduce oversteer and allow for some inside tire lift on turns.
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