Weight tranfer and a watt's link
#1
Weight transfer and a watt's link
Does it help with the weight transfer to the front of the car or is it still very harsh like with a panhard w/ roto joints.
I run the UMI 1055 w/ rotos on either end and it's redonkulous the way the weight transfers to the front of the car when you let off the gas, and it's exaggerated at lower RPMS in lower gears. First is a nightmare and, unless you drive the car every day like me, will definately start a "bucking session" if you don't feather the clutch.
I don't get much front-end nose dive, it's more rear-end hike if you get what I mean.
I am just wondering if a watt's link will help with this or if maybe I need LCA relocation brackets or something.
I run the UMI 1055 w/ rotos on either end and it's redonkulous the way the weight transfers to the front of the car when you let off the gas, and it's exaggerated at lower RPMS in lower gears. First is a nightmare and, unless you drive the car every day like me, will definately start a "bucking session" if you don't feather the clutch.
I don't get much front-end nose dive, it's more rear-end hike if you get what I mean.
I am just wondering if a watt's link will help with this or if maybe I need LCA relocation brackets or something.
Last edited by gmoran1469; 05-22-2012 at 12:44 PM.
#2
Does it help with the weight transfer to the front of the car or is it still very harsh like with a panhard w/ roto joints.
I run the UMI 1055 w/ rotos on either end and it's redonkulous the way the weight transfers to the front of the car when you let off the gas, and it's exaggerated at lower RPMS in lower gears. First is a nightmare and, unless you drive the car every day like me, will definately start a "bucking session" if you don't feather the clutch.
I don't get much front-end nose dive, it's more rear-end hike if you get what I mean.
I am just wondering if a watt's link will help with this or if maybe I need LCA relocation brackets or something.
I run the UMI 1055 w/ rotos on either end and it's redonkulous the way the weight transfers to the front of the car when you let off the gas, and it's exaggerated at lower RPMS in lower gears. First is a nightmare and, unless you drive the car every day like me, will definately start a "bucking session" if you don't feather the clutch.
I don't get much front-end nose dive, it's more rear-end hike if you get what I mean.
I am just wondering if a watt's link will help with this or if maybe I need LCA relocation brackets or something.
A watts primary advantage is a lower rear roll center which translates to better rear end grip in roll and completely symmetric handling. I'm not sure how a lower rear roll center effects longitudinal forces in acceleration and braking though. This would be a good question for Norm to answer as he has more experience than I do in that matter.
#3
Hrmm... Thought my setup was in my sig... one sec
Edit: There it is... Wonder why it didn't show on my first post...
I've been having this same prob for a while and I just can't figure it out. I've double checked everything three times.
Edit: There it is... Wonder why it didn't show on my first post...
I've been having this same prob for a while and I just can't figure it out. I've double checked everything three times.
Last edited by gmoran1469; 05-22-2012 at 03:08 PM.
#4
Define 'harsh'. How long has this been happening? How long since the springs and shocks went in? Did they go in together?
If it's a matter of how fast the rear moves up, the first place to look is at your rear shocks (specifically for their damping in rebound) to be shot - though it almost sounds like one end of both of them isn't even connected.
When this happens, does the tail rise 'overshoot' its upward travel and come back down a little without you lifting off the brakes any?
I can't imagine the suspension geometry being far enough off or the control arms being sufficiently loose without giving other symptoms, but check their bushings and joints for play/condition even if you have to disconnect one end to do so. With the car sitting with full weight on the wheels, this sort of looseness may not be apparent.
The PHB, its construction or end types, and its height have no measurable effect on what you are observing. Nor will a Watts link fix it. Those devices are involved with lateral location of the axle, not fore/aft axle location, anti-squat/anti-lift, or pinion angle control.
Norm
If it's a matter of how fast the rear moves up, the first place to look is at your rear shocks (specifically for their damping in rebound) to be shot - though it almost sounds like one end of both of them isn't even connected.
When this happens, does the tail rise 'overshoot' its upward travel and come back down a little without you lifting off the brakes any?
I can't imagine the suspension geometry being far enough off or the control arms being sufficiently loose without giving other symptoms, but check their bushings and joints for play/condition even if you have to disconnect one end to do so. With the car sitting with full weight on the wheels, this sort of looseness may not be apparent.
The PHB, its construction or end types, and its height have no measurable effect on what you are observing. Nor will a Watts link fix it. Those devices are involved with lateral location of the axle, not fore/aft axle location, anti-squat/anti-lift, or pinion angle control.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-22-2012 at 05:14 PM.
#5
Been happening for past 8 months at least, got exaggerated when I put in the LCA and UCA, or so it seems, maybe I was just expecting a change. I took it to a shop and was told the LCA and UCA bushings were blown so I replaced the entire 3-link except for the UCA mount on the unibody side. Even swapped to a urethane bell housing bushing.
Shocks and springs went in together February of 2010, or so my log on another forum shows.
If it's a matter of how fast the rear moves up, the first place to look is at your rear shocks (specifically for their damping in rebound) to be shot - though it almost sounds like one end of both of them isn't even connected.
When this happens, does the tail rise 'overshoot' its upward travel and come back down a little without you lifting off the brakes any?
I can't imagine the suspension geometry being far enough off or the control arms being sufficiently loose without giving other symptoms, but check their bushings and joints for play/condition even if you have to disconnect one end to do so. With the car sitting with full weight on the wheels, this sort of looseness may not be apparent.
The PHB, its construction or end types, and its height have no measurable effect on what you are observing. Nor will a Watts link fix it. Those devices are involved with lateral location of the axle, not fore/aft axle location, anti-squat/anti-lift, or pinion angle control.
Norm
When this happens, does the tail rise 'overshoot' its upward travel and come back down a little without you lifting off the brakes any?
I can't imagine the suspension geometry being far enough off or the control arms being sufficiently loose without giving other symptoms, but check their bushings and joints for play/condition even if you have to disconnect one end to do so. With the car sitting with full weight on the wheels, this sort of looseness may not be apparent.
The PHB, its construction or end types, and its height have no measurable effect on what you are observing. Nor will a Watts link fix it. Those devices are involved with lateral location of the axle, not fore/aft axle location, anti-squat/anti-lift, or pinion angle control.
Norm
I'll give that a shot. I'll put it on the rack and disconnect both ends one at a time to see if either has play. I can tell you when I put them on they didn't, I made sure of that because that was exactly what I thought the problem would be.
The only way I can think of to demonstrate the harshness it to put a glass of water or something in the car and video tape it so I will try that I guess.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AMAlexLazarus
AmericanMuscle.com
3
10-02-2015 08:06 AM