non lowering upgraded suspension?
10-20-2012, 09:42 AM
#21
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Chassis bracing can do wonders.
www.kennybrown.com
http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue...ehicle=2011-ON
Also I would put poly bushings everywhere you can.
This would include the front and rear sway bars
and the pan hard bar.
www.prothane.com
www.energysuspension.com
What rim size and profile tire are you running?
I went from a 215/65-16 on a 16x7" rim to a
275/40-18 on a 18x8.5" rim and that made a
big difference without changing the height of
the tire and throwing the speedo out of whack.
Roush springs and shocks have the lowest cost,
the least amount of body drop and the best
handling for the buck out there.
I dont 'bottom out' anywhere within reason.
www.mossmuscle.com
www.mustangsunlimited.com
www.kennybrown.com
http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue...ehicle=2011-ON
Also I would put poly bushings everywhere you can.
This would include the front and rear sway bars
and the pan hard bar.
www.prothane.com
www.energysuspension.com
What rim size and profile tire are you running?
I went from a 215/65-16 on a 16x7" rim to a
275/40-18 on a 18x8.5" rim and that made a
big difference without changing the height of
the tire and throwing the speedo out of whack.
Roush springs and shocks have the lowest cost,
the least amount of body drop and the best
handling for the buck out there.
I dont 'bottom out' anywhere within reason.
www.mossmuscle.com
www.mustangsunlimited.com
Last edited by 157dB; 10-20-2012 at 09:54 AM.
10-20-2012, 02:49 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 477
I have the stock 18" rims with stock 235/50ZR18 tires, they seem to work out pretty well, but definitely could be improved. 
, I talked to my wife, and she thinks the car needs to roll less, and dive less when we hit the brakes, and the opposite with the gas.
So overall I am thinking to upgrade I will need bigger tires/rims (traction), new dampers(controlling pitch), and sway bars (body roll). Then when I get rich I can get chassis stiffening, new bushings, and maybe an exhaust or other power adders. Seems like I have enough power now, but who doesn't want more right?
Thanks again for all the help!
, I talked to my wife, and she thinks the car needs to roll less, and dive less when we hit the brakes, and the opposite with the gas. So overall I am thinking to upgrade I will need bigger tires/rims (traction), new dampers(controlling pitch), and sway bars (body roll). Then when I get rich I can get chassis stiffening, new bushings, and maybe an exhaust or other power adders. Seems like I have enough power now, but who doesn't want more right?
Thanks again for all the help!
10-22-2012, 03:17 PM
#24
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: n/a
Posts: 778
I have the stock 18" rims with stock 235/50ZR18 tires, they seem to work out pretty well, but definitely could be improved. , I talked to my wife, and she thinks the car needs to roll less, and dive less when we hit the brakes, and the opposite with the gas.
So overall I am thinking to upgrade I will need bigger tires/rims (traction), new dampers(controlling pitch), and sway bars (body roll). Then when I get rich I can get chassis stiffening, new bushings, and maybe an exhaust or other power adders. Seems like I have enough power now, but who doesn't want more right?
Thanks again for all the help!
, I talked to my wife, and she thinks the car needs to roll less, and dive less when we hit the brakes, and the opposite with the gas. So overall I am thinking to upgrade I will need bigger tires/rims (traction), new dampers(controlling pitch), and sway bars (body roll). Then when I get rich I can get chassis stiffening, new bushings, and maybe an exhaust or other power adders. Seems like I have enough power now, but who doesn't want more right?
Thanks again for all the help!
10-22-2012, 03:57 PM
#25
It will be a while before I do anything, but when I do get a suspension upgrade done I want to reduce roll(sway bars if I understand correctly), reduce nose dive while breaking(dampers?), and I am guessing new tires will help keep the back end from sliding as much around corners(and keeping my foot out of it), but will anything else help with that suspension wise? Thanks for all the help!
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...g-package.html
10-25-2012, 11:02 AM
#26
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
And there is plenty of support.
Slam it around corners on a daily basis.
Wearing straight across with normal 6000 mile F/B rotations.
I drive it like it has 275s and I stole it.
10-25-2012, 01:10 PM
#27
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Even if you're talking about 275/45-18's (recommended for 8.5" to 10.5") instead of 275/40-18's (for which the recommended width starts at 9" minimum).
OP has emphasized handling and not even mentioned appearance or ride quality, so there is no reason to recommend anything narrower than the "measuring width".
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-25-2012 at 01:15 PM.
10-26-2012, 11:18 AM
#28
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Maybe I am missing something.
I had 255/45-18s and went to 275/40-18s
and did not notice any sacrifice in handling
but just the opposite, tighter cornering
with less tire squealing.
But without doing extensive (and expensive) research,
I just dont know.
I had 255/45-18s and went to 275/40-18s
and did not notice any sacrifice in handling
but just the opposite, tighter cornering
with less tire squealing.
But without doing extensive (and expensive) research,
I just dont know.
10-26-2012, 03:47 PM
#29
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Mostly it'll be as slightly "softer" cornering response. Even though the ultimate grip may still be there or even ultimately a little higher, it won't turn in quite as quickly. You'd notice this more at autocross - or when having to very suddenly swerve to avoid pieces of truck tire or other debris - but perhaps not under less strenuous conditions.
Basically, the tire tread is free to distort laterally and rotationally about the vertical axis more when the rim width is narrower than the "measuring width" but less so when the rim width is wider.
Differences in tire construction and compounding can count for similar or even greater differences in cornering response, particularly applicable if your two tire sizes were from different tire mfrs. I've noticed a substantial difference in response in same-size tires on one of my other cars.
Norm
Basically, the tire tread is free to distort laterally and rotationally about the vertical axis more when the rim width is narrower than the "measuring width" but less so when the rim width is wider.
Differences in tire construction and compounding can count for similar or even greater differences in cornering response, particularly applicable if your two tire sizes were from different tire mfrs. I've noticed a substantial difference in response in same-size tires on one of my other cars.
Norm
05-09-2014, 03:02 AM
#30
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 477
good old thread resurrection
Hey all,
I am not sure about lowering or not right now, but I did get new tires. 255/45zr18's on my stock rims... old tires ran out at about 32k.
I have had them on for a day, and after the new tire grease got worn off they felt pretty grippy. The tires are the BFGoodrich G-force Sport Comp-2.
I should be able to start upgrading things this summer, and I might go to an autocross event next weekend, so are there any recommendations for what to "fix" first? or should I go race it there and see what I think I need after?
Thanks!
I am not sure about lowering or not right now, but I did get new tires. 255/45zr18's on my stock rims... old tires ran out at about 32k.
I have had them on for a day, and after the new tire grease got worn off they felt pretty grippy. The tires are the BFGoodrich G-force Sport Comp-2.
I should be able to start upgrading things this summer, and I might go to an autocross event next weekend, so are there any recommendations for what to "fix" first? or should I go race it there and see what I think I need after?
Thanks!
